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  1. Mostly mid 1970s Heresy I, IIs, LaScalas, Belle and Klipschorn maintenance, sealing, and placement questions Hello Folks: Mostly mid 1970s Heresy I, IIs, LaScalas, Belle and Klipschorn maintenance, sealing, and placement questions I have been reading many of the old, sometimes 20 year old posts. Many of the project and photo links no longer work . Moved into my new house. 1890s, hardwood floors 12-14 foot ceilings and 14 x27 ft main room plus 11 x 14 foot bedroom. Higher floor moldings than the K horn rear cutouts. General questions, some of which I am only asking due to the high cost and / or limited ability to get parts. Pre COVID, I would likely just do these. On all speakers, but do the big boys first: check all caps and replace the spam can caps on all of the larger speakers that were not previously replaced about 15 years ago, post Hurricane Katrina. Should I just contact Bob Crites? I will assume the crossovers, either original Klipsch or ALKs that I built when he sold the kits years ago are otherwise ok. I know I have a LaScala with a blown tweeter. Which replacement is suggested and will xover changes be required? I do have some baby butt JBL tweeters. Not sure if ok with the xovers. Should all cabinets be opened to check seals, gaskets and snug placement of woofers, mids, and tweeters? Re-gasket and reseal as needed – what do folks suggest for replacement gaskets / seals? Or: if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it? Should “O” rings between Alnico or KL drivers and various Klipsch horn components be replaced? If so, with what – just red rubber 25 cent plumber’s O rings? I have never opened any of the large speaker woofer panels / dog houses, etc. I have owned all speakers for about 15-34 years. FWIW I do have 1 set of wooden horn with 1 inch throats I think for the Khorns and a set of JBL radial horns of similar size (still looking for the drivers, lost in a box someplace). Old place had uneven stone floors and crumbly brick walls on 3 sides, plus roof leaks. 17 x 40 uniroom with high sloped ceiling (about 12-17 ft high) and good acoustics. New main room is much smaller, rectangular and without any carpeting or treatments is sonically very harsh. None of the 4 large outside windows work anymore – sealed shut long ago. No idea for the age or “firmness” of the existing plasterboard or drywall, but likely before the 1980s. I do not want to mess the place up making additional 4 x 4 ft 1 in thick plywood wall corners and triangle above the floor to brace things better. This would also likely require screwing the 4 x 4 s above the existing baseboards and floor. For sealing the khorns into a corner, the issue for me is that the baseboard is a few inches taller than the lower Khorn cutout. Should I make some cuts onto the Khorn or simply cut some strips of 1-2 inch wide x 1-2 inch thick pieces of wood and use foam pipe insulation or door seal around them and the rear of the Khorn to make a wall seal on the sides? Some great old posts with pics, like Garyd9 on 2 22 2004 (and many others): https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/37435-sealing-bass-bin-of-khorn/page/2/. Includes the wood corner braces too. I did not find a consensus on how to seal the top few inches or the bottom few inches in the center rear of the K horn woofer cabinet against the vertical wall corner. Suggestions? For sealing any of the large speakers to the floor (not the Heresy’s I guess) these seem to be representative posts: HDBRbuilder had several posts emphasizing the use of grippers, from Jan 7, 2009: Dr. Who: I would like to remind that if it is NOT grippers, then it may NOT have the same effect. Grippers are peel and stick 1/4" thick NEOPRENE with a traction enhancing non-stick side, which will "squish" somewhat under weight and give a better stability on SMOOTH-SURFACED floors which are slightly uneven. Groomlakearea51Posted March 14, 2007 Yup, pipe insulation works perfectly; You can also use 1/4 size (also comes with the "peel off" tape for the sticky edge). To seal to the floor.... I replaced the factory metal gliders (they will tear up a hardwood floor....) with teflon "gliders", but used more of them, including three "inboard" in the center; then used a piece of 3/16" thick x 3/4" wide closed cell foam weather stripping, but did not peel off the the "floor" side "sticky" cover. Slides around perfectly. Cheap to replace after several "move out for spring cleaning" moves that will tend to wear it off. I'm also debating about doing the same thing on the edges instead of pipe insulation next time around. Easier to trim and gets them very close to the wall. My humble Qs: since the 100+ pound LaScala, Belle, or Khorn is technically on small pieces of squished slightly pliable material, is it really “nailed” to the floor? I found some Scotch 8 gripping pads, 1.5 in diam at Home Depot for about $5.00, SP940-NA, 0-51141 59807-9 bar code. I also looked at some of the kitchen drawer liners at Walmart: https://www.walmart.com/search?q=drawer+liner. Could something like these do the trick? Mostly under $1 per foot. How easy or difficult is it to extract those small metal gliders from the factory? I can see doing this with the grippers and the LaScalas and Belle as 2 folks could move the speakers into place with only mildly destroyed finger tips and knuckles at worst. But why not just remove the metal gliders and place directly on the floor with maybe a few pieces of paper or cardboard or those floor sample freebies from Home Depot or Lowes stuffed under a corner to prevent any issues from uneven hardwood? Or even a few pieces of thin wood directly under the corners or fully under the outer floor edges of speakers and using foam or gasket to seal air around the corners and just leave the metal gliders in place? As for the Khorns, doing the grippers plus sealing the rear woofer cabinet to the wall corner will be a real problem so as not to mess up the floor and our hands. Since folks agree not to place the Khorns on a carpet (carpet plastic bottom to the KH bottom), I was thinking of using very thin wood strips above the floor, maybe ¼-½ in thick. For example, just cut to needed length: from Lowes: ReliaBilt 1/4-in x 2-in x 4-ft Square Unfinished Poplar Board Model #POPSRL142SU04 $3.04 Seems cheap and easy. Could use multiple wood strips both to move the speakers in and out and seal the air around the KH base similar to the vertical corner walls (adding a touch of foam at the triangle corners). Likely a major finger saver too. The metal sliders could be left in place. Would folks foam or weather strip seal the KH bottoms to the floor (if it could even be done) to prevent any movement through the “cracks”? Thx From NOLA with love
  2. LaScala Touring edition for sale. 2 pairs plus bottom ends. 6 boxes total. Best offer takes them. Make me an offer. Or trade for Yamaha QL1 used like this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/202830594527?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true
  3. I have 2 k-400 horns that I pulled out of a really rough pair of Lascala. They do not match, apparently one is older than the other (sand cast). Obviously this doesn’t effect the sound. I would need to work on getting a proper box to ship these, but I can figure that if someone is interested. Of course they’re available for pickup in and around Chattanooga. Message me and we can discuss it. possible trade for a set of Dave's LMAHL. Thanks.
  4. I recently acquired a pair of LaScalas that appear to have come from the factory with organ amplifiers. The top was screwed on, there are tone knobs (tweet/mid) and an AA crossover. Built late 79 (high 800s and they are within ten digits of sequential.) The finish at the seam is perfect (BB) and the screws are matching. These were rescued from the church rafters after 40 years and are mint, they even have a warranty card still tacked to the back. I can’t find any info on these, but I can’t see anyone breaking the top off of these and returning with a perfect seam….
  5. I am new to active crossovers, new to using REW to test speakers and Klipsch speakers. So I am hoping someone with more knowledge can "look over my homework" to make sure I am on the right path. @Chris A or anybody else with active speakers or familiar with active crossovers, I would be happy for y'all to look at driver graph and then see if crossover points are correct. This is a tri-amp setup via 2 MiniDPS 2x4HDs (one doing left channel and the other doing the right) with 3 AIYIMA A07 amps. While I am not overly familiar with REW, I have watched a few videos on how to use it to measure your speakers. Scott Hinson has video on how to measure each driver and I tried to follow his steps to get my response graph for each driver (1v @ 1m because I have neighbors). While it may not be perfect since I could not take my speakers outside to measure each driver, I think they are close. Then again, I maybe fooling myself, which is why I am hoping someone can look this stuff over and tell me I am all wrong or on the right track. Lastly, I attached 4 MiniDPS settings "screens". The low pass, for the woofer, the band pass for the squawker, and the high pass for the tweeter. The 4th is the time delay that I derived using the tech paper that MiniDPS posted on measuring impulse response to time align your drivers. There is no delay for the woofer, a 2.8ms delay for the squawker and a 4.45ms delay for the tweeter. I have tried to verify these settings and there is still a few uSeconds of variance between all the drivers. If I change the delay on the tweeter, the impulse either fall just in front or just behind the squawker--I can't seem to get them to align perfectly. This could be because: I am not familiar enough to using REW to measure the impulse correctly OR I think I am hitting the delay resolution of the MiniDSP OR I could just have totally messed up the original impulse response measurement and these number of nowhere remotely correct. So fi these delay settings seem incorrect, I would be happy to revisit them. With all this said, they still sound a LOT better than it did with the original AA crossover. So I think I am on the right track. Thanks!
  6. Is there a reason why Klipsch didn't fit a "plug" to fill the cut-out that provides access to the woofer in the La Scala? I wondered if the cut-out was left for manufacturing convenience or if that void might be part of the acoustic path design. I'm wondering if it might be a good idea to fit a plug to fill the void and attach it to the access panel. This would provide a (more or less) smooth surface under the woofer, without impeding access to it. I didn't find anything related to this question when searching the forum. I'm sorry if it has been discussed already
  7. Beautiful set of walnut Belles, only minor flaws on the cabinets with a little more obvious damage on 1 lower corner, not noticeable unless you’re looking for it. I’m in Chattanooga and am happy to demo them for you here. Delivery is also available within a reasonable distance from 37343. they are available with the original ab crossovers for with the super aa for I would like to keep the set of crossovers you don’t take. more pics upon request.
  8. Original Video Tour of Youthman's LaScala Trio Home Theater on Youtube UPDATED Video Tour of Youthman's LaScala Trio Home Theater Renovation on Youtube High Resolution Pics of Completed System It's finally time to begin my HT 2.0 Build so I figured I would start a dedicated Build Thread here. Wakejunkie is getting ready to begin construction of the new front cabinet wall and this evening, he sent me the final sketchup file that he designed and needless to say, I'm PUMPED!!! The screen will have two hidden latches (similar to door handles on a car) that will release the screen. Gas shocks will hold the screen open. The bottom three middle compartments will be able to slide forward via a 500lb max capacity commercial rail system. This will allow for MUCH easier access to the rear components. The RSW-15 will be moved underneath one of the main LaScalas. Here are the latest renderings from Wake but they do not show the Lighting under the curve and the rear view does not show that the top cabinets will be actual cabinets.
  9. I recently acquired a pair of 1986 Lascalas. The raw birch cabinets had some damage (chips, delamination, chewed-off corner) that I have mostly repaired. I’m now about to strip the existing polyurethane and refinish them. I’ve spent a lot of time on this site and the web (e.g., Volti site) trying to ascertain how best to proceed. I was thinking about laminating a ¼” Baltic birch panel to the sides, top, and bottom (but not the front or the back) and then applying veneer on the top, bottom, sides and front (but not the back). 1) Will adding the ¼” panels hurt the value of the speakers? If so, I’ll likely not add them. Adding the ¼” panels would increase the rigidity of the cabinets and provide a smooth surface for the veneer. I’ll use Tite-Bond (PVA glue) to laminate the ¼” panels to the cabinets. Although I have some clamps, I’ll rely on weights and some pin nails to hold the panels while the glue dries. 2) I’d welcome any suggestions about better ways to laminate the panels to the cabinets. I’ll be using sheets of paper-backed veneer. I’m concerned about how best to apply the veneer, specifically how to avoid bubbles/poor adhesion when applying it and chip-out/tearing when trimming it. I’ve been thinking of cutting the veneer slightly oversize, gluing it to the cabinet with contact cement, and then using a flush-trim bit in a router to cut it to size. Alternatively, I could glue the veneer to the ¼” panels before installing them and then install the veneered panels (using Tite-Bond, pin nails, and weight) but I’d still have to use the former approach for the front of the cabinets. 3) I’d welcome advice about how best to apply the veneer, especially from those that have “been there and done that”. I’m scouring this site and the web looking for images of Lascalas to help choose a type of veneer and finish for the speakers. 4) I’d appreciate seeing images of Lascalas that might help me choose the veneer and finish for the speakers. 5) What have people done with the exposed end-grain on the cut-outs for the tweeter and sqawker (see photo)? Those curved surfaces would be tricky to veneer so I'm thinking of just painting them a flat or satin black. I have other questions pertaining to how to finish the bins. I’ll post those in another message. Thank-you. Dave MacKay near Toronto, Canada
  10. Optimal Cartridge for a Technics SL 1210: 2M Blue or Bronze, Super OM 30, Denon DL-110, AT 150 series (AT 150MLX or 150Sa), or AT 440 MLa, MlLb or new VM 540? Hi Folks: Not sure where to post this. Let me know if it belongs elsewhere. Most of the info below is tell you folks about me and my gear. You can skip it if you like, as it is a bit detailed. My Technics SL1200 ?M3D is no more. Also gone is the Nigthclub S Cartridge and extra stylus. I still have the Music MMF-5 with a Goldring cartridge (?1024?), from about 10 years ago. It is my bedroom rig in New Orleans, I was never very happy with this, but completely different set up from what is noted below, except for the Onkyo. I work up in the DC area now and I have Klipsch LaScalas for my front speakers, Heresy Is for center and rear and a Fender 18” pro audio ported subwoofer (for which there is virtually no info on the web, nor from Fender). The LaScalas are “bright”, even for LaScalas. Therefore, I really do not need an over “bright” TT cartridge. I have a Pro-Ject - Debut Carbon Esprit SB (DC), 2M Red. It was bought knowing it had some damage and I got a 2M Blue stylus to put on the straight TT arm to replace the mangled Red stylus. It sounds very nice, but I have never had another needle on it. I do not intend to replace it. Also have a Pro-Ject Audio - Tube Box DS – Black phono pre amp. I have never compared this to anything else either. Seems to work fine. I only have a small studio apt now so I use the Tube Box for any / all TTs. Thank goodness for thick walls in an older building !! I use an Onkyo TX SR 805. Also about 10 years old. It is an all in one receiver, but with a very good amp for such a unit. I have acquired 3 additional TTs: Technics SL-1800 (repaired), 1210 MK5 and 1210 M5G (one of the 1210s also got minor repairs locally, the other has a gimpy ?gimble point on the tone arm, but it works fine – for now). (Long story on getting them.) Not sure I want to do the KAB fluid dampers on these now, nor any other modding now. Might consider mods after I get a good needle. They came with various used cartridges including an AT 92E, Stanton Groovemasters, etc. I have no way to know how “used” any of the cartridges and styli are. That said, none sound bad. I would like to have 1 good needle that I can easily interchange between these 3 TTs. Therefore, some sort of plug and play set up would be ideal, whether via a compatible cartridge mounted onto a head shell or a DJ needle, Best reccs for a DJ needle seem to be for the Ortofon Arkiv, but I doubt that it would be as good as any in the post title for regular hifi listening. I mostly listen to Jazz, Blues, 60s/70s rock, Disco, etc. I should also state that many of the dozen or so records I have up in DC now have seen better days and all were bought used. I have cleaned some of them, and yes there was gunk on them. The gunk and scratches were one reason to leave out the Super OM-40, as some web postings said that all the scratches etc are easily noted with the 40. Combined with the horn loaded speakers, I think the sound of nice new vinyl might be great, but most all of my 150+ records in NOLA are from the cheap used bin. I have listened to most of them before buying to make sure that that the records were at least in ok shape. 2M Blue- sounds fine on the Pro Ject and some say it is ok with the SL1200s. $210/165 (cartr/stylus, LP Gear or TTNeedles). It is mounted onto the Pro Ject arm and I am not going to mess with it. However, I would consider a second Blue on a headshell for the Technics TTs. Some really like the Bronze, but I do not know if either Blue or Bronze is a good match for my 3 Technics TTs when compared to the OM 30 or others listed here. $370/290. Super OM 30 gets good comments on the web. However, more postings seem to favor the ATs or Denon. $290/220, so more than Blue, but less expensive than a Bronze. TTN Jico Shibata stylus for OM 10, 20, 30, 40: $160 Super OM 40 might be better for those with high quality records, as I guess you hear every pop and such in the vinyl. Some folks on the web preferred the 30. $385/300. Denon DL-110 is said to be well mated to the 1200 series. However, there is no separate stylus for this cartridge, and setting the mount properly might be difficult. It might also be too bright for my LaScalas and Heresy’s. $200-300 AT 150 series (AT 150MLX or 150Sa) is said to be a real step up from the 440s – but so is the price. I am not really sure how much difference there is from the Sa to the MLX. $270-450/335. Perhaps the bargain, if I could score a Sa for $270 and if the Sa is similar to the MLX. AT has just released the VM740ML, VM750SH and VM760SLC to replace the 150s, but I know very little about them. AT 440 MLa, MlLb or new VM 540 get good reviews. MLb is $199/179 I have a few Mono records, not sure the $90.00 OM D25M is worth it for me. One potential advantage to the OM 30 is if I could get a stylus for the D25M that would work mounted onto the OM30 cartridge. Also note that some plug and play or otherwise premounted to headshell sets are available from some of the web retailers. There were also some comments about how difficult some of these are to set up. Any advice appreciated. From NOLA with love.
  11. Hello all, Above all, I'm not familiar with Internet forums, so please inform me if there is anything inappropriate. And, thank you for your help and advice. Long-story short, I'm now considering having a sound system again. More than 10 years ago, after spending years in a rabbit hole of hifi shopping, somehow I lost all interest, so out of trend now. I want to have things as simple as possible this time. Here's what I am looking for. I'm in SoCal and far from rich, so a listening space is not that big. - 10' x 15' space or 15' x 15' space available - Considering Klipschorn AK6/La Scala AL5/Cornwall IV/RF-7 III - As a modern set-up the closest thing that I know personally is B&W 803 D3. - More precisely I want something better than B&W 702 S2. - Side story - B&W's recent Formation Duo was pleasant surprise - This makes me to believe in simplicity. - Little bit warmer sound but crisp details, and depth description especially for piano parts are what I am looking for. - All my music source would be AIFF / WAV files from CD. - I will use iPhone/iPad/Mac to store and play songs. - I will stay in this way despite some drawbacks. - This speaker is for strictly Classical Music (Piano) and Jazz. - More precisely Artur Rubinstein, Martha Argerich, Richter, Glen Gould, Horowitz / Bill Evans and Dave Brubeck - Again, focused on Piano sound (which is really tricky...) - I would sincerely appreciate any advice, information or insight from your experience. - Randomly, I heard that La Scala AL5 might not have enough bass (though I do not expect this weakness would apply to Classic Music / Jazz). Still if I need to add subwoofer to compensate the sound, I'm more than willing to go for AK6. - I want my set-up to be as simple as possible. (not going to go to the rabbit hole again) - Simply 2speakers (without woofer, hopefully, if this doesn't make day-and night different) + Music Source - Open for any opinion and advice. - If someone has similar tastes in music, please educate me about your other set up. (amp etc, I want to know how other people enjoy their time) - Lastly, if my listening space is too small, please also inform me. - I face this problem when I was dealing with McIntosh. (I need a bigger house to hear the sound I want. ) Again, I really appreciate your thoughts and time. I want to choose the system that I spend my next 20 years. Thank you.
  12. Hey gang. Thought I would share the custom heritage channel I made for my LaScala based home theater. This started when I refurbished a vintage pair of La Scalas (AA crossover). After some excellent two channel listening, I decided to convert that room into a theater room and went about collecting 4 Academies for surrounds. I got super lucky when a single LaScala (later model with a AK-3 Crossover) became available. The problem I had was that the third 'Scala was too tall in the center position as for comfy viewing I wanted my screen lower. After some research, consulting Mr. Crites, and enlisting the help of a friend with a woodworking shop, I scavenged the tweeter, midhorn, got the crossover Mr. Crites sells for his Cornscala design, estimated the surface area of the Cornsacala woofer and translated that to two Classic Woofers from PartsExpress, and designed a cabinet to hold everything w/ proper cabinet volume and can fit under the screen, and voila: The LaSquata The results are beyond my expectations. Wide dispersion, crystal clear clear voice tracks on movies, matching timbre and response. I am powering this with an NAD AVR and added two HSU 15" subs. It's quite epic, comparable to a commercial movie theater and the whole house shakes during LFE segments.
  13. I’ve recently acquired my very first set of lascala’s (‘88) and have Crites updates on the way. Is it ok to use 14 awg speaker wire w/ like connectors to replace the stock XO to driver cables - or should I use something else? I don’t have a problem with them, but it seems logical to replace the stock versions if also updating the XO and tweeters.
  14. I have a pair of vintage LaScala speakers for sale in the Los Angeles area. I am the original owner of these Birch veneer covered speakers purchased in the 80's. $1,399.00 for the pair OBO
  15. I am looking at a pair of La Scala that came out a of a local theater. They are 1974 units. One is missing one of the K77 tweeters otherwise everything is pretty much untouched. They are black plywood/ lacquer paint cabinets, have little Klipsch badges on the wood in the top corners. How difficult is it going to be for me to find one or a pair of K-77 AlNiCo tweeters from that era? Currently running HK730 with KG4s and HK430 with KG2s. Really would like to own these La Scalas as a natural progression into Kilpschland. Still debating with guy he wants $1,000 for them. Would like to grab them for around $600. Any opinions?
  16. For sale are a beautiful pair of matching SN 1977 Klipsch LaScala's. These have upgraded Bob Crites Crossovers and CT-125 tweeters. These are in their original factory condition with exception of the crossovers and tweeters. Super nice condition, no major dings or scratches anywhere. The natural birch was recently re-sanded and 2 coats of lacquer were applied. The natural birch looks amazing!. Local pickup in the Cincinnati Ohio area. Text if interested. *5136165622* Thanks for looking! $2500 obo
  17. Superelliptical tractrix horn for tweeter - a.k.a small rain from a big cloud. Why a.k.a. It took me several years to actually implement this idea and originally I was planing it for 400Hz horn. I started to think about it in Forte days, I was planing to build some external mid/high horn for fun. Then as replacement horn for La Scala. Original material suppose to be something else. Don't know English name but I was planing it as cast made of polymer resin with mineral filler. Friend of mine was doing round horns with it and I really liked the product. So as I said got idea maybe 5 or more years ago, I did math, CAD project and laid it into a drawer for a long time. Doing large horns is really challenging. Inspired by Dave A work on tweeters I thought why not try something much smaller fist. So I ended with small solid beech wood tweeter horn instead of huge cast resin one. OK so why Superellipse? It's fun curve. Special cases of this curve are circle, ellipsis and in the end rectangle. By manipulating basic curve parameters we can do smooth transition from circle to rectangle or in this specific case rectangle with rounded corners and all the way be compliant with Tractrix horn flare. Why to bother when we have elliptical horns? Because using same front area we can make horn with lower cut of frequency without having any sharp edges on wave path. So basically join elliptical and rectangle horn strong points. Of course it's not always desirable to have lowest cut of freq but in this case math looked good. I have created parameterized xls sheet witch which I can control how transition from circular throat changes to semi rectangular mouth. Horn is calculated for 1544Hz and has good loading from 4147Hz (strange tails but I was shooting for particular mouth size) For this particular horn for half of length it goes smoothly from circle to ellipsis and then shape starts to be more rectangular. But this is fluent and I could make it almost rect from the beginning. From math I did FreeCAD project (or actually my xls almost generates it). Then I had to find someone who will make wooden prototype. It's not so easy to find someone who wants to play with such "large", 4 items, orders, but finally I did. As always with prototype not everything is 100% correct so cut off is probably bit higher but as proof of concept it went well. I stained it little bit and painted with semigloss lacquer I decided to use B&C DE120 for it. Guess I was not reading too carefully because to use it I needed to scrap some wood from top hat to fit drivers magnet. I did some measurements to compare K77 square, K77 round in original horns and DE120 to mine. Looks fine. Green is round, red is square, blue is DE120. Don't pay attention for reference level, my mike has +3 or more dBa from 16kHz but as reference to other K77 measurements it's fine. Currently my system plays better then ever. Unfortunately I cannot say it's all because of horn/tweeter change. At the same same I went from passive to fully active system. So currently I'm using active digital crossover (Najda DSP) with 6 channel Rotel amp. Additionally to normal crossover points I did full time delay alignment for all drivers. With everything changed I really love to listen live recordings. For good realizations it sometimes gives me an illusion of being actually there at time of a concert. Now it's time for bass extension with La Scala bass reflex mod
  18. I searched and did not find this review having been posted here before. https://www.tonepublications.com/old-school/the-klipsch-lascala/ Enjoy. WMcD
  19. while I await my ES crossovers from ALK I have been playing with my series I LaScala's trying to improve the imaging. One well know mod is to wrap the K400 in Dynamat, I did that and listened to it for a few days, it was great with no negative impact and it did clean up the sound a bit. After enjoying the horn mod I decided to dynamat the upper box, the imaging is even better but you do loose some efficiency and some mid range, over all the modded side was a consistent 1dB lower, but the sound was yet again improved, modded the other side and imaging was yet again improved to the point they hardly resemble a stock LaScala, the listening fatigue is nearly gone. After talking to my local hifi shop that carries Klipsch, Vandersteen, Revel,B&W and Wilson we talked about the huge lengths companies like wilson and Vandersteen go to in dampening their cabinets, and with the theory that vibration leads to distortion my last and final mod was to dumpster dive my garage, I found some barbell weights and egg crate foam. A single 10# weight placed under the K400 in each speaker on a piece of egg crate to reduce vibration and additional foam randomly stuffed in the upper cabinet to reduce sound escaping out the back of the upper cabinet now makes for a little less efficient but much more accurate listening experience. Note: I do use a sub so I was not concerned with the loss of bass Power comes from a Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum rolled with KT120s so speaker efficiency are not a top priority with 100watts.
  20. Hey Folks, I work with teens at the Boys & Girls Club and we've recently acquired four very old (in poor shape, paint, rust, etc.) LaScala speakers. Three of the four are "working" (don't seem to sound quite right), the other has no bass. I'm not up to date with all the technical info I see on the posts but believe that with our wood shop we'd be able to refinish the boxes and replace the workings. What we need is a simple list of the parts (and where to order) to make them like new. Thinking we can sell a pair to pay for the project. I've had a pair of these speakers for 40 years and know how good they can sound. Thanks for any suggestions.
  21. Finally, after a year with my 1988 LaScala, I replaced the AL type crossovers with a constant impedance set. I took good care to simulate and then measure the results and i am now an happy camper :-) I decided that a fix L Pad will be my preferred way to attenuate the mid range. The original attenuation was 6 DB, but in order to make them more lively, I opted for a 4 DB pad. What are your preferred attenuation? Dan
  22. Located in Northern CA. Asking $1300.
  23. I have no affiliation with the seller. Thanks, Moriceman He or she is asking $150.00 https://neworleans.craigslist.org/ele/d/klipsch-k400-vintage-horns/6762532006.html
  24. Late updating this, but items have been sold This post hurts the soul a bit. The time has come with me to part with my current system and rebuild. I will add pics tomorrow (ironically my personal computer is at the office). While the prospect of building a new system excites me, parting with some of these is gonna hurt. I put this system together in 2012 while living the single life. Last year, I went and did the unthinkable. I got married! While the wife has been accommodating for awhile, our recent move has soured her forgiving mood on the big toys. I need to downsize (but not too much ). Selling: 2012 Jubilees (Cherry finish) w/ K402 horns: $6500. These come with the original K-69 drivers. Still have original boxes and shipping materials. I purchased these in 2012 from the factory (original owner). The boxes have some wear from 2 moves but the speakers are perfect. TAD TD-4002 drivers: $1500. These REALLY make the 402 horns sing! If purchased together, will part with the Jubs/TAD combo for $7500. The Jubs come in the cherry wood finish and have no blemishes. Also for sale: 2011 LaScala II (Single): $2500. Also in cherry, used as part of JubScala center in my setup. No scratches anywhere. MINT condition. Also ordered from factory. Again box is a little beat up but the unit itself is perfect. K402 Horn w/ K-69 Driver: $500. Used in JubScala center DX38 (qty 2): Each with Roy's recommended settings. One has the jubilee setting for the TADs already programmed, and the other the JubScala setting. ($300 ea) Danley DTS-10 (qty 2): $1000 for the pair. They perform flawlessly, but the cabinets are not pristine. They have been through 2 moves and did not receive the love that the Jubs/LaScala did. Thankfully they're built like tanks. Never dropped. KPT-200 pair: $200 for the pair. Used as surrounds in my system. Located in Seattle. Can deliver a considerable distance (I like road trips and the holidays are coming up), or can arrange shipping with prospective buyers. Pics coming your way tomorrow! Only have a few pics for now. I'll have to go through some older photos.
  25. Location 98312 Bremerton Wa. This listing if for the grills only, 125.00 plus shipping and fees. Below you will find other items as well. 1. Lascala bass bin braces from Volti Audio 2. Jbl 2426j compression drivers 3. K77 tweeters orig coils Having first upgraded (then sold) my Lascala, to move on to Belle, ive upgraded (altered) the Belle now and have for sale some items left from both projects. For sale here is a set of the top hat frames from Belle. Having gone with new ones, i simply dont need these any more. I WANT to keep them, but... anyway. They, and the grill are in orig and Ex+ condition. Felt compelled to offer them here first. Quite literally, these are in Ex cond, no snags or dingle balls, emblems are included. I also have JBL 2426j drivers (new JBL diaphrams) 16 ohm., as well as bass bin braces for the lascala (with lower grill covers to hide the braces) from Dave Harris (never installed) My ability to ship, is second to none.
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