Boxx Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Does anyone have any methods or procedures they have used to help reduce (or come close to removing) the visibility of scratches on turntable or reel to reel dust covers? I've heard that some have had success buffing them out, however I have never tried it. Thanks for any help.... Boxx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 maybe one of those kits for restoring headlights? never heard of anyone doing it, just a WAG. I'd buy a beat up cover from Goodwill and try it on that before something you care about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube fanatic Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Novus plastic polishes do an amazing job on virtually anything! I've extensively used the #2 and #3 polish on all kinds of plastics with great success. In fact, the latter does an amazing job of getting out deeper scratches on abused CDs or DVDs. Their products are available all over the place and are very reasonably priced. http://www.novuspolish.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironsave Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 maybe one of those kits for restoring headlights? never heard of anyone doing it, just a WAG. I'd buy a beat up cover from Goodwill and try it on that before something you care about. Boxx; FWIW; I had success on my plastic headlights with toothpaste...... Also...... Wait for it........ Wait for it....... Mothers Mag aluminum polish. (This worked even better than the toothpaste; which was arm and hammer baking soda toothpaste, btw). PLEASE; PLEASE experiment on something unimportant until you are sure it will do the job up to your standards....... Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhoak Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 There is a very good thread with lots of suggestions and success stories over at audiokarma.org http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1398 I used one of the kits designed for cleaning up the plastic back window on a convertible. Bought it at the local AutoZone and it did wonders on my old Technics dust cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxx Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 These are some great ideas folks... I'll do some practice on less important pieces and choose the one that works best. Thanks again... The lesson to be learned here is to "not put anything important on top of your sub that can vibrate off and be damaged." Boxx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mighty Favog Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 A long time ago I used to work for a dept. store in their Automotive Dept. where we carried Eagle1 products. I bought a bottle of their plastic polish for motorcycle face shields and it did pretty darn well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Permatex 403D Meguiars makes a scratch remover and separate polish (so it's two steps, two different grits) that works great. In any case, make sure to shake the container well to get the grit in suspension before using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 Great suggestions !!! [H] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2K Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 I tried to find an article from years ago but was unable to find it on my hard drive. The gist of it was to buff the dust cover with a slightly abrasive product and wipe clean, then follow that by buffing with a lesser abrasive product (as Colter said above) and wipe clean. Follow that by cleaning with a combination of Pledge and Windex. I think it was the Windex that was supposed to be slightly abrasive and the Pledge served as a lubricant (or vice-versa). Anyway, I tried it on the dustcover of a Sansui XR-Q11 turntable and it worked great. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 When in high school we used to build things of laminated plastic, then sand with 600 grit sand paper for clear finish. I have bought some much finer grit, 1500 grit to use on some badly oxidized head lights. I used the Meguires and it helped. Probably would have done it with much more time, they are pretty bad. Plan is to clean, use 600 grit, clean, use 1500 grit, clean, then finish with Meguires. Have to agree it would be best to test whatever you decide to use on something of little value 1st. What ever you do, be careful not to heat the plastic to melting point, gets ugly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USNRET Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 There are some products we use on aircraft canopies but are pretty pricey. We start with grit over 1200 then polish. You can also use Brasso, LIQUID not wadding, polish with a very close knit polishing cloth. Once you get it where you want it apply a thin coat of Furure Floor Wax now sold as Pledge with Future Shine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 How about something for stabilizing cracks in dustcovers? I have one for a Pioneer PL-41 that's completely intact, but a rear vertical joint broke loose, and a crack started from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 Like tube fanatic I am a huge Novus fan. Tough to beat it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhoak Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 CA otherwise know as cyanoacrylate or better known as "Super Glue". The down side is that it tends to "fog" around the glue joint. As a rule that fogging can be polished out bit it takes some effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 CA otherwise know as cyanoacrylate or better known as "Super Glue". The down side is that it tends to "fog" around the glue joint. As a rule that fogging can be polished out bit it takes some effort. Does the crack need to be opened up to get the CA in there, or will it find its way into the crack when put on the surface? The crack is in the back (like me!), so a little fogging won't bother me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 How about something for stabilizing cracks in dustcovers? I have one for a Pioneer PL-41 that's completely intact, but a rear vertical joint broke loose, and a crack started from there. Probably need to drill small hole at end of crack to stop the crack. Idealy the crack will extend to the hole and stop. At least that is what we did with metal before welding to keep the crack from running. I wish I could remember the liquid we used in high school for lamanating as it polished up good. Maybe an arts and craft store could help. Or Goggle? Try this site on Google. Repairing a Crack in Plexiglass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 There is another approach: DigitalDeckCovers.com. I chose a ready-made soft cover. I've had it about a year now and it works great. My vintage 1962 Empire 398 turntable never had a dust cover, but it is one of the best sounding turntables that I've heard: noise/distortion figures are below -80dB. Whenever I need to dust things I just remove the cover and shake or brush it off away from the turntable area then replace. I also don't have to worry about it getting scratched, marred, or cracked during cleaning or by other housekeeping. It looks nice, too (IMHO). Chris [:-*] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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