Update:  Matt/all this worked for me! - Got the supplies in, cracked open the back and replaced those capacitors.    I know next to nothing about electronics, but armed with some audacity, and this board, I was able to use 10.00 solder and ongtw75 valuable post with regard to which capacitors to shop for to (I believe fix)  my Cinema 800.   Cable routing to get the back on was a little wierd, but I was able to push them down and finagle them.    Note of caution I'd mention to guys trying this - be careful you don't pull that white flat data cable out of the slots on the other board trying to get the wires back in the box, I noticed I did that, and had to push it back in.  No biggie, but I could see how someone could screw that up easy as I almost did.    ongtw75, special note to you - I sat with this problem for awhile without seeing my own specific issue, but imagine finding your post about Cinema 800, in a discussion about the Cinema 600, on a board that was initially about the Bar 48 power issue.  I was about to buy the other power suppy board just to try, but your details about my own situation caused me to look at my own broken unit.    Thanks so much everyone        

Hello Mesut, welcome to the forum. Yes, I also have currently only found one single K 138 in Singapure. The link below is from the parts supplier who works together with the official German Klipsch Distributor. At least they could provide me brand new K33E woofers for a fair price, much cheaper than ordering in the US with all that shipping costs and customs. I have no clue how long this K 138 are out of production and if you could have a chance that they still have some in stock. But anyway Germany is much closer than the US, and perhaps you know someone living in Germany who could buy them for you and then ship it privately to Turkey, worth a try?   https://www.sisc.de/en/klipsch

With a loss to Vanderbilt, and a near loss to Kentucky 13-12, Alabama is overrated INMHO.

Some crazy stuff rollin out for sure.  Gonna see how tough Kentucky is but Vandy?  Whoda thunk it?  Apply "on any given day" here.  Then the Tenn game? Kinda added a bit more flavor to the mix.

^^^^^^^^^ that stuff?  Gimme a break.  Yea, we're OLD!  😂     Gotta just preach and teach!     😂😂

No Affiliation Very Minty   Marketplace - Klipsch Forte II | Facebook

I basically agree with you, and I also write that I would always let my ear decide in the end. My friend also writes along these lines. But I have the impression that Melvin wants a stronger sense of security for a correct base, and a measurement can help there. However, I see it like my buddy that it's hopeless to use a measurement microphone in a normal living room. That only works in an anechoic chamber. That's why checking the AC output voltage on the amp is a good approach.

Not using your ears... is a complete waste of time. the original question was VERY specific... it doesn't ask about using similar topology stacks.   if you are relying on a measurement device to determine for you is something sounds good, you may be able to teach a science class... but you're doing it wrong.   Learn to use your ears.

@dirtmudd come on be nice to @MicroMara that's A LOT for him to comprehend.  😂    Calm down and breathe George...       It's a time & space thing Mr Mudd.  Sometimes ya just have to roll with him too.  He's got a groove somewhere up there for just about anything.  Ya just knock on the door of that lil compartment.  It'll open for ya.  Kinda maybe.       All better now @MicroMara? 

However, I did not describe the method with the measuring microphone, but rather the case that you don't have a measuring tool. You can get a rough approximation if the sound comes from the centre, provided that you have connected both basses and tweeters in a phase-correct manner. On the left, the one amp that will later be used for both basses, and on the right, the other amp that will then be used for the two basses. Of course, with tube amps, you also have to take into account which output tap is used for bass and treble. This at least gives you a rough orientation because your ear can distinguish more fairly between left, right and centre than when you have to match a bass with a tweeter by ear.   I didn't recommend the 4 dB louder in the bass, maybe it has to do with how DSpeaker works (which I don't know) and how much bass DSpeaker reduces to get a balance in the end.   This was perhaps a simple approach, and I found it sufficient for more than 14 years for my oen pleasure. However, it will never be completely accurate. When the fine-tuning between the bass and the K402 takes place, it ultimately depends on the timbre of an instrument, and we are really in the fine-tuning range. For example, you can hear the unmistakable sound of a familiar saxophonist in good headphones. I had chosen the thick guitar sound of Wes Montgomery because it is composed of both the bass and the K402. I've known Wes's tone for 50 years and I play a Gibson L5 myself. You hear it through your headphones and then through the Jubilee, so you can fine-tune whether it matches the sound of Wes Montgomery.   A good friend described a much more accurate method when I asked him for help. You may remember that I forwarded it to you. Honestly, it's not as difficult as it sounds. Read it two or three times and follow the steps. You don't need more than a voltage tester and sine tones from, for example, YouTube in the range of the acoustical cut-off frequency, approx. 500 Hz for the Jubilee. By now you know how to operate the Yamaha DSP. That was the biggest hurdle at the beginning. Now you would be able to do it. And it is very accurate You can finally do the „soundcheck“ by ear with the sound of a familiar musician in the mid range spectrum as well   Here is what my buddy wrote:     Here's how I would do it: 1) Hook up everything as expected: source -> preamp -> xover -> amplifier -> speaker with the amplifiers on the tap settings you want to use, etc   2) find a way to get a sine tone generator at the source it preamp stage. Could be a CD with tones on it if you don't have a laptop.   3) I forget the acoustic xover frequency of the UJ, but find a tone near that frequency. Let's say 800Hz is the frequency.... You're going to play that 500Hz tone indefinitely and make sure nothing else can play (loop that channel, etc).   4) you're going to bypass all the processing in the DSP so that a full signal goes to both tweeter and woofer. This is why it's important to make sure you don't send a low frequency signal to the tweeter. Keeping the volume low should help too.   You need to remove any gain adjustment in the xover too. 0dB gain through the unit with no filters or other gain stages active.   5) Take a voltmeter, put it into the Vrms or V AC mode. And measure the voltage at the output of each amplifier.   6) Adjust the gain of each amplifier until they all read the same voltage.  If the individual amplifiers don't have fine adjustment, then you can use the DSP output gain for finer adjustment. If you use the DSP, then you need to keep track of the delta between amplifiers and apply that difference to the stock settings.   7) Once you're done, you can turn the DSP filters back on and listen to music.  What you've done here is measured the gain differences between the two amplifiers and applied the necessary adjustment after the xover. One tricky thing here is that you've matched the output at a single frequency. When the tube amps try to match their output impedance with the tap settings, there is frequency variation due to the nonlinear impedance of the speaker. So you might still want to adjust by ear slightly.   Measuring the acoustic output is a better way to voice the speaker, but it would require an anechoic environment. It's nearly impossible to achieve the same gain accuracy inside a room. I have definitely voiced speakers with only in room measurements, but it's always done by ear.... Using measurements to help identify the Q and slopes of the effects I'm trying to correct....and then I'm moving the mic and changing the time gating and filtering to be able to see what I'm hearing....and then adjust by ear once I can see my filter is lined up.     Make sure using this method of voltage measurement the speakers are ALWAYS. connected to the amp.