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A few years ago I gave my dad a pair of RF 3 speakers. Today, he came over and we sat around listening to some LP's. My pair of forte's recently purchased from a fellow forum member where so wonderful that dad now wants a pair... So here they are. Willing to trade for a decent pair of 3 way Klipsch.

Al also has a network with a 4000Hz crossover point that serves no purpose. I think he's trying to toss something out there to compete with Bob's A/4500, but missed by 500Hz. Uhg, I love Al, but I've got my own business to run, so I'm not going to be supporting and promoting his products any longer, especially when I've got products and solutions that work just as well or better. I'm pretty Bob uses a 500/5000 for the Selenium D405 (phenolic version). If there is a problem or issue with the Cornwall version of the Roadshow Crossover, please contact Al. If you're having a CornScala issue, which as far as I'm concerned, is a product built and sold by Bob, then please contact Bob. Seriously, I just don't have time to deal with it all, I barely have time to deal with mail that relates to my own stuff. DIY efforts should have their own threads, and if they're "CornScala" type builds, as much information as possible should be provided. There are plenty here who are willing to help, including me if I have the time. I will take on work fixing "issues" for a fee, but for the reasons stated on my site, I don't support DIY efforts. It also doesn't pay well, and if the person doesn't get the expected result or screws something up -- guess who gets to deal with it? Now back to Carl (who won't yell at me). The network looks old and dilapidated. so I'm worried about the condition of the autoformer. The mids shouldn't be as hot as they are. I think there is something wrong when a CornScala has to be tapped out like a Heresy to sound right. I think you said you had some B2s? I would like for you to drop them in and report back.

Check out the obvious (feedback on ebay and audiogon if he has it). It looks like the bigger concern is proper shipping, he probably has no clue as to how to pack equipment properly.

Guess I celebrated a day early. Back to the OP. I hope you find someone who can accommodate.

if you ask nicely all the other forums you used to belong to might let you back in. please go back

i'm about ready to loose it. warning points might be going up GET A JOB

What do you mean listening test, I thought Dean was breaking it in for me! I am going to need this well broke in. Dave

Seeing "GotHover's" doggie sculpture prompted me to show mine....

Interesting to know! Thanks Really? Nuf said for me, going there as Blasting Blondie is completed...... LOL, listening to Blondie? Rory: http://www.rorygallagher.com/#/media/images/taste Rory is like the brits George Throgood , and he is indeed great. thanx for the link...

Interesting to know! Thanks Really? Nuf said for me, going there as Blasting Blondie is completed...... LOL, listening to Blondie? Rory: http://www.rorygallagher.com/#/media/images/taste

I run mostly SET tube amps, because I like the way they sound, however I do have a fantastic sounding Vintage Mcintosh MC-2100. I am currently building a First Watt F5, so I hope to be able to comment on this one soon. For my HT, I have run Pioneer Elite and Dennon, both fine amps, and perfect for my theater, but my preference for horns is tubes. Either way, if you are happy with the sound, no need to change. Dave

I brought my pencil, Give me something to write on...............

Wow Drool.... Dave

I don't feel tardy...

Now, now, don't be sayin anything about the time stamp, im doing shooter(s) according to that there time stamp, sometimes I get to do a double......

x

I have a Forte 3, I love that amp, yes Mr. Pass had a big hand in it. It runs class A to like 15w (from my dim memory when I looked at the specs years ago when I bought it) then switches to AB, very clear and musical. I have it drivng a set of Quartetes in the HT, it never gets out of class A.

That's a valid point. I bought the LS II's because I thought I could always resale them for a little more than I paid. I wasn't expecting them to be that much better than my RF-83's, and actually planned to sell them after trying my first pair out.

Here's a peek behind the HD TV, since in the above front view, it hides the DTS-10. Ron, I'll PM you my cell number. It's easier to talk that to type here.

This is what I do on my rear wall with KPT-200's on top about 4 ft apart center to center.

How is this accomplished? Seriously, I almost burned my fingers this weekend they were so hot LOL. If you want to put together a battery style DIY kit for the AA's (Cornscala version) I'd be happy to guinea pig it for you. I'd gladly pay all parts and supply you with all the questions you'd typically run into with this type of product You could then pre answer all the stupid questions in your instructions and avoid a lot of time consumption in the future.

Up against te wall gives you your boundary gain. And as far as speakers behind screen and toeing, mine are behind a false wall and are toed in. When they faced straight I had zero imaging. Sounded like a big mess up front.

Islander you are correct with where the tweeter is xo in the passive or active xo, not the xo in the avr for clarification. My comments were geared to the Reference line which uses higher passive xo's. With speakers xo in the avr around 80 Hz in the Reference line the power distribution will be equal around 300 Hz. By 2-3 kHz, the woofer will consume 90 + % of the power. The RF 7 II uses a much lower xo than the original RF 7's. But, even with the lower xo, the majority of the power will be used by the woofers. An active xo can allow for some fine tunning of the sound compared to the passive xo. The trade-off are the cost of the extra amp, and also learning curve dependent. With electronic DSP units this has became much more easier to do. I have not read up much on the Heritage line of speakers thanks for sharing about the Jubilee's.

LOL the Rotel sounds fabulous!!! RSP and a pair of mono-blocks, it is sweet It is the processor part I am very much disliking. On screen controls and options? YUK! Just want to push a button or turn a dial, please. serenity now!!! TYG Bet the Rotel really sounds good! *minermark just mentioned a $34 dollar DAC. Going to look at finding one maybe while I decide on next one. Thanks

The power relationship between the tweeter and woofer depends on the crossover point. When it's fairly high, the woofer does most of the work. When it gets down to about 600 Hz, the load is shared equally between the woofer and tweeter. I've seen a chart showing the power distribution with various crossover points, but the link seems to be lost. In the case of the Jubilee and JubScala, the crossover point is around 480 Hz, so the tweeter actually uses more power than the woofer. This can be detected by the treble amp running warmer than the matching bass amp. In many bi-amped systems, it's best to use matching power amps for bass and treble. This makes level matching much easier, and the sound is consistent from top to bottom, rather than changing "flavour" or timbre when it crosses from woofer to tweeter. One advantage of having a low crossover point is that more vocals come through the tweeter than the woofer, which lets them sound better. As for active crossovers, they allow a level of accuracy in frequency response tuning or voicing that's not possible with passive crossovers. In some cases, their delay units permit time-alignment of the bass and treble, making the sound that bit more realistic. Also, sending the audio signal through capacitors and transformers can muddy the sound a bit and absorb some of the power. Those factors don't come into play with active crossovers.

I just found these... The guy said he will take $700 but no less. http://sacramento.craigslist.org/ele/4334488767.html I told him $600 max as I paid $500 for my last pair and these will def need cabinet work. What do you think? BTW if anyone wants them go for them... Don't worry about me.

I saw those Ron, agree $400 to $500 tops. nice project. im bird dogging splits myself, enough projects to last me till summer right now. P.S. if you need a truck and or body, im local. email me if you need help, email in profile.

You subs should go front and back center wall for best distribution and balance. JBL reseach proved this. I did mine that way and it's been the best ever so far.

Don't now about great photo, but he is a good boy.

Rears and surrounds are supposed to be ambient. They should not be aimed at the audience, as it is best that the sounds come from everywhere rather from a specific axis. I spoke to an engineer at Danley who said that he knows of people who use the 10's as rear decks, and face the mouth toward the front of the theater. IMO, you should call Danley and get some input.

The Universal crossover from ALK is $320, and worth every penny. It is also now available in several different configurations all with adjustable taps via autoformer and fixed LPad. 400-4000, 400-5000 and 400-6000 my preference is the 400-6000 with my Fastrac. This crossover is also available in a Cornscala-wall version 600-6000 ALK's also available 600-4000 ,600-5000 Now the ALK Universal covers all Klipsch heritage models from Heresy to the Mighty KHorns. Dave

http://www.digitalaudioreview.net/2013/01/schiit-audio-modi-2496-dac-review/ Ive been listening all weekend to this DAC... really enjoying... As nice or nicer than the HRT I used to have. Reading all this stuff about DSD... going inexpenisve for a while seems a good choice. Long story, short... I do wish it had digital volume control, but love that it doesnt need a power cord.

**** the *** Whales!!!

Crown makes no mention of processing below 20hz on the xti. I looked in this document: http://www.crownaudio.com/media/storagebk/pdf/amps/139472-3.pdf

You just bought 2 Danley's. That would put a hardship on anybody's pocketbook. kg4, I think the Yammy 7000 is a robust amp. I don't know about the xti, but I do have a Crown xls. I have had no complaints with it running my THT's. Is there something going on in those xti's? Don't they do a lot of processing??

Speakers gone to the bay!!! Amps will go tomorrow.. Just thought I would give my Klipsch brethren first dibs!!! Thanks

So no, my friend will be glad you asked. Gave him the magazine back. Seeing him today and will be more specific about the title. Pretty good article!

Power rock! Warning Label...

Thanks for all the well wishes guys. By request, here they are in their new home. They are in a small room and very close to nearfield listening. As you can see, Khorns would not be a good fit in there. They sound great -- not quite as good as Khorns but not that far off to be honest. I'm very pleased. Here is what will be powering them:

I have enjoyed my music via headphones, they give you something that speakers don't, but I would say they are like masturbation and a speaker system is like sex with a partner. Headphones are satisfying and you're In complete control. Listening in a room via speakers can make things difficult but how could you pass it up to just masturbate?

congrats, did you get one klipschorn or 2 klipschorns never tried and probaly never will bi-amp oh by the way, we won't believe you until you post some pictures

Yup. I used Monster XP CL3 cables all around.

that's 3 good recordings to get you on your way....happy listening!

To answer a bit out of order, I didn't call Justin out at all. He has made a point of saying how meticulous his work is and, since he is trying to promote his products, it's always nice to show the world that the claim is justified. His pictures bear out the care that he is taking in constructing his amps. This is not a new marketing concept as many equipment manufacturers include under-chassis pictures on their web sites and in promotional materials. I've shown pictures of beautifully constructed amps and other electronic gear to non-technical folks and they often comment about how neat and organized everything looks in spite of having no idea what they are looking at. The reason I don't post pictures of my "products" is that I don't have any for sale. Being retired (from the business/monetary standpoint) I now offer prototype services to local audiophiles. So, for example, if someone called me and said "Maynard, I want to experience the sound of a flea powered SET with my CWs. What can you do for me?" I would either bring over a prototype (if I happened to have one on hand), or build one (at my own expense) for the person to try. This is without obligation to the person involved. Basically, if a concept appeals to me, I'll design and build it for fun. If the person likes what he hears and wants to keep it, he may offer me something on trade, offer to replace all the parts which I used, ask me to build an identical amp in some other kind of enclosure (I use a plain aluminum chassis when prototyping), and so on. I'm not interested in making any money on this, and refuse to take anything for my time and effort. My "profit" is seeing the look of sheer joy on the person's face the first time they experience their favorite music through the "musical instrument" which I have created for them. The same goes for my work in vintage amp and antique radio restoration. In the latter two cases, I'll either do the work gratis (if it isn't too costly), or simply give the person a list of the parts needed and where to buy them (or sit down at the computer with them, make up the order, and let them pay for it!) When they have everything, they give the parts to me and I do the job. The amp and radio work is my way of preserving history. Making a 70 year old radio play as it did when new (and many times even better with some circuit modification), or a 50 year old amp deliver a whole new level of musical enjoyment is my return. So, there it is! I don't normally photograph my creations (no point- I know what they look like ), but have attached a couple of a recently prototyped SET. The guy was quite specific about what he wanted- absolutely no audible hum with his ear against the speaker grille, no hiss if at all possible, cheap and abundant tubes, good bass, and very smooth highs. This was a nice challenge which appealed to me. It required using a separate power supply and runs very highly filtered DC for everything, including the filaments, and a circuit which is simplicity itself. He is extremely happy! Maynard

I am pleased with the project and successfully added room gain. Before room gain started at 18 Hz and now around 37.or 38 Hz. Before room gain would be 12 db up at 9 Hz and now that happens at 18 Hz. Results in strong 10 Hz performance of around 108 or 110 db. The significance of the project was to compensate for the sealed subs natural roll off. This project was equivalent to adding 1 1/2 to 2 more subs.

Smaller room with both doors up, wall tape, mud, sanded and trim back up. Total space reduce by 600 sq ft. New entertainment area 5,600 cu. ft or 750 sq ft.

Well the wife did not like my hang door. So, I put up a couple of real walls and door. Below are pic's of the problem. Basically to large a room and open. I have the walls done and one door up. Tomorrow the other door will go up and then the painting will be left. I knocked of around 20 ft off the length of the room with the addition on the doors. In a few days I will see how much room gain I accomplished.

So Derrick, do you think a pair of RF-7s could hang with a pair of Klipschorns loaded up with some good aftermarket networks?