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I use to wonder the same things especially with my UG Jubs but after I added the KPT-1502-HLS prototype to the system I was amazed at the amount of realism it added to many recordings that you would never expect. For example I love a lot of the older acoustic blues recordings and when the sub was added I was shocked at the increased sense of the acoustical space of the recordings with an increased spaciousness/envelopment with the musicians clearly more defined/realistic within that space. There is also a perception of increased clarity in the rest of the spectrum with an improved overall tonal balance which is especially and easily audible when you turn the sub off and on. After experiencing this sub with my La Scala AL5s and my UG Jubs I really don’t consider it an option but actually an essential part of the systems which brings the systems to another level that IMHO isn’t possible with any electronic improvements someone could add to their system if they already have descent equipment. IMHO Roy’s vented horn loaded subs are the absolute cutting edge designs with shocking clarity that makes someone feel as if you can actually count the frequency cycles being reproduced which I have never experienced with any other sub design types. The clarity/definition is incredible with Roy’s horn/vent sub design. IMHO Subs of these qualities when added to your systems will connect you with the musical performance in such vital ways to realism that until you have experienced it most listeners simply can’t imagine. miketn 🙂

I wanted to share some pictures with those here who enjoy viewing music rooms with great equipment. The pictures were taken during our visit with some dear friends who truly love sharing their music through their Klipsch Collection as well as sharing some of the most enjoyable meals a person could experience. miketn 🙂 This is their Underground Jubilee clones with retro equipment collection that they restore and enjoy in all their systems. Heritage Jubilee in their living room with McIntosh MC30s and a Custom 45 single ended tube amplifiers. Theater Room which can be switched between Home Theater duty as well as 2-channel Music with again his custom built Tube Preamplifier and 300B Amplifiers. Heritage Jubilee and UG Jubilees for surround and center duty with a KPT-1802-HLS sub as well. Pictures just cannot do justice to these Klipschorn AK6 “Teak with Lambs Wool” which serve as a bedroom system again driven with great tube equipment he has restored.

The practical lower limit of a La Scala is about 60 Hz. A, D, C, G is an extremely common bass line sequence in music including acoustic genres like folk, jazz and Bluegrass. That A is about 55 Hz, D is 73, C is 65 and G is 49. E (41 Hz) and F (44 Hz, "Angel Of Harlem") are a!so quite common. "Beseme Mucho" has a 37 Hz D in it. Properly calibrated, a subwoofer will only add the low notes a La Scala cannot reproduce and you will not be able to detect its presence. I would not be satisfied without subwoofers and I am not a bass head. If I can hear a sub, it's 10 dB too loud.

Friend of mine visited me today , we spent a good time together , during the evening I spun Paul Young " No Parlez " followed by the 1988´s debut from Roachford than Flash and the Pan " early morning wake up call " after dinner we listened to " Invisible Touch " from Genesis after that I spun the Epic Record " Stop Making Sense " from Talking Heads and we finished with Supertramps " Crises what Crises " It´s 11.30 pm here and I´m going to sleep ..See you tomorrow again ☺️

Below I have listed the rest of the songs I played for subfest Bonnie Raitt. Good man, good woman bela fleck and the flecktones. Flight of the cosmic hippo bass mekanik. Bring the bass back the refused. Bruitist pome #5 Tool. Invincible roger waters. Amused to death stevie ray vaughan. Little wing yello. Umbria boz scaggs. Thanks to you. and Matt’s two songs that Travis listed.

Here is a group of max output response curves for the new subwoofers. However, it requires some interpretation. They were run in 1/2 space and at 2 meters (I'm glad I wasn't Jesse that day!). You should add 6 db for a 1m rating to compare to most other speakers and another 3 to 6 dB for indoor use, depending on placement and room size/shape. You can see the small one can cover any common music note, even Ao, 2 steps below the open B on an 5-string bass.

@MicroMara I would have joined you for the last 3 🤘

The camaraderie of this forum is amazing. That said, I’d like to offer anyone in the area a listening session if they’d be interested. My setup consists of three original Heresy across the front, each with the covered K-55V dual phase plug midrange drivers and refreshed crossover networks from JEM. Surrounds are Heresy 1.5. Atmos are AW-650. Subwoofers are Bill Fitzmaurice Tuba Home Theater design, horn loaded each with a 15” woofer. It’s the most amazing home theater I’ve ever had or heard. So, if anyone is ever in the Alexandria, MN area and would like to stop by and experience it, just let me know! I have tons of reference 4K and Blu-ray Discs, Amazon Music to stream any music you’d like, etc.

https://www.discogs.com/release/1682808-Climax-Blues-Band-Flying-The-Flag

Like the idea of the Little Big Horn. Frequency range given should overlap the LS bottom end well enough for some folk. Adjustable. The medium seems also awe-inspired given the physics. Doing so without taking up much real estate seems incredible.

My KH take up little usable space They are in Corners after all. 🙂

Working on those KP-250. This little guy is a perfect fit although he’s a few dB hotter than the K79. I’ve got the crossover circuit modeled up in LTSpice but I’m going to get some measurement curves first before I decide how much I think I need to pad it down. Unlike another popular tweeter driver, this one gets all the way to 20kHz with no problem. It’s Saturday morning and I’ve got to make a cup of coffee and decide what what else I’m going to get done today.

@MMurg Wow, that's a very nice setup. I plan to do something similar. My Palladium setup isn't complicated enough... I'm only using 20 channels of DSP, DAC and amplification for 5.1 (5 actively tri-amped speakers with 5 subs). I'd like to get my channel count over 30 lol. I get incredible side imaging with four P-39f's. Can't say I'm dissatisfied with the setup by any means.

https://www.discogs.com/release/655021-Subway-To-Sally-Bannkreis

Lol. I’m glad you aren’t building networks for a living.

Besides the fine equipment, they are the nicest folks you could ever meet Those setups are stunning!

$7500 ?? I paid s LOT for mine I think $2400

Sounds good. Yours?

The Outlaw Audio RR2160 is a solid “modern vintage” receiver option. A little bit quirky with the retro styling (which I found appealing, myself), but relatively affordable, with good power and feature-packed with on-board DAC and bass management.

Thank you, Mike. I suspect Thorens itself has rediscovered how timelessly beautiful the 124 is. I didn't realise that they were available again, at a proud price. The design fits in with our times again, like an MC275 or a Cornwall. If I didn't have my Oracle Delphi MK4 (which looks modern but in principle is already 43 years old as an MK1), I would be very tempted. Here is the „new“ TD124. https://www.thorens.com/de/thorens®-td-124-dd.html

A naming contest is a fine idea, if the company is willing. Remember, the British held a naming contest for an underwater drone and got Boaty McBoatface!

I told Roy it would be cool if they could come up with names that PWK would think of, but who knows really.

Well the 1802 and 1502 are also patented and when tuned can go as deep, but you have to realize that even the 1502 is roughly the size of 2 of the largest of the new subs. So your right the previous designs take up MUCH more space which rule them out for most people/rooms so these designs are special with the performance VS size differences. 1502 here and performance yes but at a steep tradeoff of double the size compared to what will come out, so this will be a big deal, anyone can fit one of these 4 new subs. But room size is no problem so I really love my sub, I but could easily see where many would consider the new designs with a size for any room and still keep the performance. They will be a big hit and go down as a true Heritage product in years to come.

To a degree they will have to be competitive with other top performing subs. But what else is out there that is horn-loaded? in veneers that match Heritage main speaker veneers? Ultra low IMD? There might be some stuff that’s close, but all four are patented so technically nothing is going to be precisely in the ball park in terms of design and performance is there? (I really don’t know, but am guessing based on people who got the 1802 and the limited run of 1502’s, that there isn’t a lot out there in the horn-loaded bass dept, with that footprint. However, I missed the class (and no one will let me copy their notes) so I don’t know. We will know more next Spring/Summer. If you are visiting Hope at that time, pop into your local Klipsch Heritage Dealer and see if they have an update

Palladium Atmos setup? Who would want to do that? 😁 Are you going to try to do P-17B height speakers like I did? I hope you find what you want.

The black HJs are beautiful and I felt the same way Heinz…the irony 😄 Thorens TD124 /ll SME 3009 series ll audio-technica VM 95SH/H

My new setup....

Solid stuff, and I like the cover: https://www.discogs.com/release/24598520-Talas-1985

This is a link from last year but there's 360 miles of snowmobile trails here! Let's RIDE! Alexandria Area Snowmobile Trails are OPEN! - Explore Alexandria Minnesota

I like them quite a lot! But they are about 20 years old and on borrowed time. VMPS is long gone and Brian Cheney was notoriously secretive, so no one knows what parts he used. I now have a folder on my computer named "Deep Roy"!

They compare around the same. The yellow I would call a medium hot, and the death spiral and scorpion are in the pretty dang hot range, and the scorpion has that long linger to not let you forget how hot it is.

Not sure how your imaging is but you will love 3 across the front. I would play with front stage set up first and try to get everything to mix match together. I think that's part of reason I liked the revel surrounds. Different brand than klipsch but I was able to get to them match up better with mains. I also ran 3 subs which helped alot lam sure, didn't need alot of low end from surrounds. Ran a revel b 15 upfront and 2 lilmike anarchy subs midway on each side wall. Not sure if this was addressed to me but I live in Atlanta. Post pics of the new front stage please, good luck!

I think he has 2 lascala's in front and was considering a third for center channel. His surrounds I believe are true surrounds and not full range like a forte. My system did consist of chorus II mains and a DIY chorus center, front stage stage. Rear surround was chorus I's. It did sound good but I lost the chorus I's when I got a deal on 4 revel c30 surrounds. I like the revel surrounds better, I liked the more ambient sound. The chorus I's at times seemed to draw the sound to the rear. This has been my experience with full range surrounds, ymmv. Not trying to argue with anyone I am far from an expect. I ran middle level onkyo 7.2 recieve in an 11 by 17 by 8 ft room. Maybe room size, conditioning etc. could other be other factors to consider? Just trying to help from my experience. Islander I would love to hear your system, I am sure it sound fantastic! Curious how big is the room your setup is in, thanks.

If you are talking about the plane of the mouth yes horizontal. Like a mounted TV only sub sitting on floor with mouth point either up or down. I am trying to gain some room to put a center channel speaket in front of sub. Hope this makes sense, thanks.

Try doing a search for - fiddling - Look for topic, fiddling around with k402 stands.

Osram orginal 79.99 free shipping. Company Abitan has one for 66.99 free shipping, company has good reviews 180 day warranty. I trust your reviews more then amazon, if I don't find a better deal I will go with the Osram.

Hello, I know what Klipsch states in their product catalog is the general differences but I haven't heard the ii series. I just recently picked up a pair of RF7's used and am taken back by the overwhelming highs. Is the improved crossover in the ii series that much of a difference? Would it be possible to buy the ii series crossovers from Klipsch and use them in the original series? Thanks.

A few nibbles but they haven't sold yet. I may have scared some people off. First, my price is negotiable, I looked around to see what they were selling for these days but am open to offers. Second, even though I would like to keep it to local delivery, I travel from San Diego to San Fran/Sacramento quite often for work, so an exchange between these areas could be coordinated. If you would like pictures, shoot me a pm. Jaq

This won't be an easy depiction of what I am experiencing... I have enjoyed listening to the Forte II's as my mains for the last year and a half. They replaced the legend series KLF10's. After I recently moved, the width of the Forte's were too wide. So I used the KLF10's as my mains again. WOW, I fell in love with them all over again. The Forte's were the smoothest sounding speaker I have ever heard, but now, I am in limbo. I know that these two sets of speakers are very efficient BUT the Forte II's just don't seem to really punch the bass, probably due to the passive radiator. The ported KLF10's just dominate any action movie hands down. I don't use a sub woofer, never really cared for them but now I am considering a few things: 1. I use a yammie RX-V800 (110wpc in stereo or 100x5? - something like that), powers the KLF10's very nicely but just doesn't push the bass through the Forte's. Should I get an amplifier to extend more power to the Forte's? 2. Maybe I could use a good, solid sub-woofer to make up for that punch? Or maybe I just prefer the KLF10 sound and should stick with them... Thank you for taking yer time to make sense out of my non-sense. Any advice? I hate to bare the thought of selling my Forte II's as it took me over a year to find them in excellent condition.

Hey gang... I'm just setting up and tuning my theater. The Klipsch manual that came with my sub was very minimalistic with regard to instructions. What's there assumes the reader already has an intimate understanding of crossover concepts, signal levels, etc., and therefore how the toggle switches should be set. I've read the posts I could find on setup, but am still somewhat confused on the best sub setting, with respect to my Onkyo TX-NR900, (which I've set to 80Hz for the crossover). The sub has a rubber-like adjustment wheel on the side, which is not even mentioned in the manual - I have no idea what it's for... I guess I can just play around with different settings until I find a combination that sounds good to me - I like a nice, tight bass, without being boomy. Also, on the RSW-10, is there some type of grill available to cover the rear-facing speaker? It only came with one for the front. My concern is not one of aesthetics, but for protection. I just don't like the idea of an exposed speaker. Thanks!

Hey, gang I've posted here before regarding my 7.1 speaker placement dilemas in a 14x14 room; my side RS-3s are in front of the seating area, which is against the rear wall. But I'm having difficulty trying to figure out where to mount the rear RS3s. The guy who did the pre-wire when I built the house placed two junction boxes in the ceiling that was originally intended for the surrounds in a 5.1 setup. The ceiling boxes are immediately to the left and right of the seating area. I thought that maybe I would mount my rear RS-3s there, maybe angling them rearward. Any thoughts on this? What would be a good method of mounting RS-3s on the ceiling. Obviously the keyhole mounts would not work. Thanks!

Nope; there is a window to the right, and a closet door to the left, so anything directly to either side of the seating area is out. As it is, I had to mount my L/R surrounds on the sides, in front of the seating area. I'm hoping that the angled design of the Klipsch RS-3s (with rear angle pointing back toward the seating area), and Klipsch's wide dispersion technology will help. Height for all my surrounds are about 3 feet above ear-level, as recommended in the literature. So, what do you think? Would a wedge bracket angling my side surrounds somewhat back toward the seating area, and then angling my rear surrounds downward help?

Hey, gang... I had a room prewired for HT when the house was built. The installer used RG58 coax for the sub run, which he terminated in the right rear corner of the room. I've already replaced his 16awg speaker wire with Monster in-wall CL3 14awg stuff. I think the braided shield on the sub coax would be adequate, but am concerned that the core wire is too small a guage. Am I good, or should I replace the coax, too? All my speaker runs are < 20 feet, into an Onkyo NR900 receiver. The sub is a RSW-10, and the rest are reference products (RB3/RS3/RC3). It's a small 14 x 14 space, so I'm not going to drive this stuff hard, but I want it to be clean. On another note, I was a bit confused when I took the sub out of the box and saw both right and left inputs. From what I read in the forum, I can use either channel, or connect to both with a "Y" adapter. Any preferences? Thanks to all who reply!

I've been trying to find a manufacturer of AV cabinetry that would accommodate an 85in diagonal drop-down screen. What I have in mind is two taller cabinets (one on each side of the screen), and a lower, center section, like a credenza or something. It would appear to be a wall unit when the screen is up, so I want the gear and speakers hidden behind doors and grills. The center section would have to be relatively low and accommodate an RC3 center speaker, while the taller cabinets would house my gear and RB3s. I see tons of this type of cabinetry for big screen TVs to fit into, but nothing for drop-downs, and I'm really not interested in going the custom route. Salamander has come the closest of anything I've seen, but they don't have the width needed in the center section for my screen. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!

Wow, Tom! I want the name of your contractor! I had considered custom, but the estimates I'd been getting all came in aroung the $7K - $10K range, which I thought was outrageous. These were with guys who build custom from the ground up. We have quite a few home theater stores in the Dallas area; media rooms are standard fare with most of the larger home builders here. Folks have been building some extravagant cinemas in their homes, so these are probably the kinds of prices that these guys can demand. Mine was a small job, and I wasn't asking for exotic woods or anything. I wanted equipment/speaker pillars on each side of the screen that would extend up to the ceiling and tie into the cornice molding that would hide the screen housing. My only other request was that it not be pine. So maybe I should just go to a regular cabinet store. Thanks for the advice!

Not sure if this helps but on my Yammie, there are 3 different settings for the OSD, full detail, summary and off. Since I use a 3rd party remote, sometimes I accidentally click it off and have to pull out the original remote to use it's buttons! Plus, OSD usually only works with composite and s-video only connections - make sure your on the proper video input as OSD doesn't work with component video, at least on my yammie. Jaq's Daniel

Could someone shed some light? I always hear posters stating to use rope caulk or mortite on the tweeters and mids. I always thought that meant as a gasket for where they mount to the front motor board. But then I read DJK's post stating behind the tweeter and in the basket, so now I am confused... Please feel free to elaborate! Thanks!

I've reviewed the posts that I could find that touched on this topic, but the replies given were mixed... My Onkyo receiver is rated at 110W for each of the 7 channels. For my 7.1 setup, I've been considering either the Klipsch Reference Series (RB-3, RS-3, RC-3, RSW-10), or the Synergy Series (SB-3, SS-1, SC-1, KSW-10 or -12). Both the RB-3s and SB-3s are rated at 100W continuous. Offhand, it would make sense to have speakers with a rated continuous wattage that is equal to or greater than the receiver's rated output. But in actuality, do I really have a problem here? Thanks in advance!