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I’ve been busy with work lately. We are moving our office down in AVL and I’ve also had to make some trips down to our Sylva office. on the audio front I’ve been tweaking my DSP settings on the LSLO (LaScala Like Objects). Still some obvious work to do on the phase response but it’s sounding better than ever as I get the phase and frequency response leveled out.

Well, here it is. The old with the new. And I'm not talking about ME. LOL But, here is yours truly, with my new Fender Precision Bass Ukelele playing through what is arguably THEE Holy Grail of guitar amps, a 1959 Fender Bassman 5F6A. This particular 1959 Fender Bassman amp has had only one owner, and he was a member of The Harmonicats. Yep, just used for harmonica all those years. AND, FWIW, the amp is going to be up for sale. Interested individuals can contact me and I can put you in touch with my friend (also a Harmonicat) who handling this part of the estate.

Robert Plant Pictures at Eleven Swan Song Promo

Says someone who's not sorting thru piles cause he's completly outta room. That's a year or so old. I'm done. Stick a fork in it done. 😂

Death Wish II is very cool album. Clean copies can be found at a very reasonable price.

Whew ... survived that winter weather. Sunny and warm is agreeable with me. They thought we might get a little rain next week ... took it off the forecast. Replaced with 75 - 80`. I can suffer that. Oops ... lit the wrong cigarette. Long story short. I am having to use non-cigarette papers for tobacco., Not as bad as it could be. I was expecting tobacco. Back from my morning drive. Having some coffee and a smoke. Waiting for it to warm up before I venture out. /// so, I'm watching The Clearwater softball tournament. Some fun stuff. Just saw a wild pitch with bases loaded result in a rundown of the 2nd base runner and no score. LOL Was noticing that it is javelina season. How do I know this? I saw a sign directing contestants/combatants to a women's javelina hunting camp.... Which brought up some questions about what women do in such a situation. Do they behave like men and sit around the fire, drink beer and tell stories??? and about what

… Give me some water 'Cause I killed a man on the Mexican border Cool, cool water I need a little water … Oh, geeze, if I just get loose my hands I'd run just as fast as my legs can But, Lord, I've got no room to run Shouldn't have done what I did without that gun … Give me some water 'Cause I killed a man on the Mexican border Cool, cool water MQA streaming on Bluesound Node. Warming up the tubes before dropping the tonearm.

What kind of experimental air was in that lill air puffy thingy? 😬

2 sides per speaker: 39.25” x 16” 1 tail board per speaker: 39.25” x 9”. Weather strip goes along 2 edges of this board and top side board Note: side board need 45 degree cut to meet tail board, other edge also 45 degree to have flush edge with grill side. You also see I build the cart on 4 low 1” wheel for easy move around and to ensure bass bin completely seal at bottom This board is 31.5” x 24” time two (another 4x8 plywood). This is option Hope this help and good luck

The enclosed build turn out to be great, more than expected Same location, same set up, KHorns produced more low freq and much louder in compare with my CW iii The enclosed cabinet boost I would say around 50% more low end in compare with non-mod Location measured at center of speaker, 4.5ft away from corners and 10.5ft apart Cost: one 4x8 plywood $70, one quart of Duratex from PartExpress (one layer, one side) $45, 20ft of window shield strip $20. I used brad nailer 18 gauge. Let me try to post some pictures Thanks to everyone responsed Happy listening

John , I'm curious are both cables the same length? How long of time between swapping? And were levels matched between the 2 evaluations? You guys are really making me want to try some star quad just to see if I CAN hear a difference. I use SQ for microphone cables and some IC if thats's what is laying around. But for speaker cables? Never really thought about it.

Klipsch 402 horns with KT-1133 HP drivers purchased from an authorized dealer Klipsch 510 horns with K691 drivers purchased from an authorized dealer Klipsch 3 way crossovers purchased from an authorized dealer Jubilee clone bass bins custom built with Crites CW1228 woofers. These were built by the same gentleman who built Bob Crites Jubilee clone bass bins. $4,000 for the pair. Local pickup near Austin, TX.

Piles of vinyl and La Scalas 😆😆😆😆

$1.00 bin copy. And sounds like it came from the $.50 bin 😂

Any extra money helps buy more vinyl! The way prices are now we need a lot!

They use this technique to diagnose cataracts as well, if I remember correctly.

They do the puffy thigs then just take some readings on cornea thickness. They're looking for a connection with type 2 diabetics compared w/type 1 and those that don't have it, as I recall. An early warning at a younger age could significantly help delay type 2 at a later age if people were aware. Not the puff, puff, pass I was expecting but I'm just in it for the money. 😂 😂

I have many times. And no matter how many time I try not to blink, I blink.

We were not affected as the distance to the storm in Victoria is from my location is Canada to Mexico However in the period of Christmas and New Year 23/24 we had the same thing happen in our area but about 70 miles from us ( storm epicentre Gold Coast Queensland )

How much of the 10 ya got? Duh PM the man, man. I had some to LF cabinets but it clouded up and got ugly, now only use it in utility room for the first 20' or so where it cannot be seen. Splice down to the 12ga in room. It does not seem to cloud up.

New? Not really but not an old timer either.

The human brain is an amazing thing. If you spend enough money on something that's supposed to make something sound better, it will.

Grills have been located! Scroll down for the story. Thanks, everyone. Most owners of Klipsch Epic CF-4 speakers are probably running them without grills, and I'm hoping someone out there will agree to sell me their grills! Why? There's no way I can convince my wife that my Epic CF-4 speakers are living-room-ready without grills to cover the exposed cones, and this particular pair lost their grills long ago. I realize this may be futile. Others have tried and failed, but I've gotta try anyway! Please help a Klipsch brother out and sell me your grills! Even if the price would be impractical, I'm willing to talk about it. Thanks all, triceratops This was originally posted in Alerts, but it was suggested that it should be in Garage Sale, so here it is. Not trying to spam the Forum.

Eh, let the kids play. They blew those up when I had the lenses replaced a couple years ago. That was strange. A lil fentanyl ride and all i could do was lay there and watch him play space invaders. Crazy for sure.

Well the listening room changes depending where we setup. We do projection of film/video content for events, often in different spaces every time. Which makes our design process unique and challenging. We've always designed our kits based around 'highest common denominator' or average size of room/audience. And certainly, the RP-160Ms are sometimes on the smaller end of what the square footage would require. But it's a punchy, sensitive speaker and we push the full RMS it's rated for, so the results are often better than you might imagine. Especially with the right subwoofer combo. Right now we are planning on ultimately using two 15" subs, although one 18" or 21" ported cabinet could potentially fit the bill. Our NPO requested an in-kind contribution from Klipsch (they have a program for that). This would put us into the more appropriate universe of two RP-1600SW (subs) and a RC-64III Center Channel, which would cover almost any size room our organization has worked in so far. Assuming we do not get approved for the contribution program with Klipsch, we'll order a RP-450C Center Channel speaker, and a SPL-150 sub now, with another at the end of the year (after fundraising more.) It's just a matter of someone confirming the RP-450C is, in fact, almost entirely similar to the RP-504C (Series I) upgrade model. It appears they are the same, aside from a minor tweeter redesign. Neither of the RP Centers is as capable as the RC-64III, just as two SPL-150 subs aren't in the same ballpark as the RP-1600 subs. But they all seem like pretty great options. We're planning to order the Center this week yet, unless we hear back from Klipsch about our application.

Thanks guys. Will try my best to enjoy these and see what happens. Amazon has some stock left and it was selling at $311. Now up to $390 but still a hefty discount.

My wife and I have been talking for a while about where we wanted to visit this year, and we've decided on Egypt. I am just in absolute awe thinking about finally getting to see some of the most incredible historical sites in the world like this destinations from this blog I found online about egypt https://gowithguide.com/blog/egypt-tourism-statistics-2023-all-you-need-to-know-5312 and the Sphinx - I honestly can't even fathom what it will be like to see them in person. We've booked a tour that will take us to Cairo, Luxor and Aswan over 9 days. It will be amazing to explore all the ancient temples and tombs. Luxor especially seems like it will blow me away. I've always loved learning about Egyptian history and culture, it will be so cool to finally immerse myself in it all. This trip has been a dream of mine for such a long time. I can't wait to share it with you guys!

I wasn't angry or upset, tried to show that with smileys! On the other hand, got to defend my side that possibly others agree with that some cables arre better than others. That first part of your statement made a lot of sense, like everyday wisdom? Or maybe common sense? Dig it!

I'd rather have a free bottle in front of me than a prefrontal lobotomy.

Not only is Chuck not a scammer, turns out he & I both worked for the same company in different offices. Small world! The Cornwalls are now heading to East Tennessee where they will not be used as plant stands! Thanks again Chuck!

this is... ONCE AGAIN... an issue of Economics and not one of scientific relevance. If anyone wants to spend 500$ on a machined billet aluminum bracket when a 10$ stamped steel bracket can do the same work, why should we not be allowed to use Billet aluminum? Common mass mentality is that you've wasted 490$ when if fact you merely made a decision based on economics. if you want beautiful stranded and woven cables, by all means use them. in as far as 'expectation' bias... I have a different view point. if I am choosing to use something that costs me inordinately more to use, my 'Bias' is not one of justification, but one of criticality... In other words, I am actually going to be MORE CRITICAL of that item, not less critical.

My source isn't clean enough to bother with big dollar cables. It's a budget thang.

Different speaker wire can make a difference, however, the threshold of diminishing returns is where people tend to find the most varied opinions. Personally, I've landed on exterior low voltage cable from Home Depot. Comes in 14GA and 12GA, has a nice thick black jacket, and lays flat almost immediately after unspooling. It has made no detrimental impacts to my various systems, and so there isn't much reason for me to look elsewhere.

"Could be" each of your amps have their own Dac and sound processing and that is the difference you are hearing

Remind me to NEVER let anyone else pull my lp's out then put them back. I'm pulling my stinking hair out!!! They aren't even close to being where they belong in places. Wait, could I have done that? Nah, impossible! 😂 😂 One pile down kinda. 5 left. Lawdy...

This is killing me! Why are you so far away? What drivers are in the bass bins? Any other info on the bass bin construction?

There are those who seem to think wire and cables have to cost insane amounts of money to be of good quality. I'm not one of those folks. IMO some of the Monoprice speaker wire from the link below will be fine for your situation. 14Ga should work but 12ga will add a margin of safety. Sorry, I don't know if Monoprice is commonly available in Europe or if there is an equivalent there. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2817

More pics

https://www.discogs.com/release/3315538-Rush-Hemispheres

VI. HERITAGE DRIVER CODES: 1. Driver Manufacturing Date Codes: Example: 9429 = 1994, 29th week of the year (1994). 2. This numbering system is derived from the Electronics Industry Association (EIA) coding. The EIA did not issue Klipsch with an EIA prefix. 3. For further information on the EIA system, see: http://www.provide.net/~cfh/pots.html Note: This site has additional manufacturers (including non-Klipsch components and an excellent resource for dating non-Klipsch equipment by the EIA "manufacturer & date-code" system. 4. Klipsch Driver Manufacturer Codes: Example: K-33-E would be the "Klipsch", part type 33 (15") woofer from Eminence. The suffix letter code generally referred to the Klipsch assigned origin/ manufacturer of the driver. B = CTS (Chicago Telephone Supply), Brownsville TX P = CTS in Paducah KY (woofers only) R = Rola (an additional "R" either stamped or handwritten also indicated replacement (often seen on K22's and K- 24's) D = K-77-D; From 2006 to the present. Essentially a K-77-F (see below) with an integral recessed mounting flange. Permits flush mounting of the tweeter from the rear, per the “Z” brackets for pre Feb 1983 Klipschorns (KH Update kit: part # 1006969) F = Philippines supplier that purchased the EV tooling (e.g. K-77-F) EV = Electro Voice (early K-33's e.g. "EV-15WK", also EV 1828 was used as the K-56 for Cornwall in 1974) G = Atlas (for K-55-G for Cornwall 1981-1983) J = Jensen (Also used for University drivers in mid- 1950s; e.g. K-5-J - University model 5A HF, and SAHF) H = Heppner (K-52-H in Cornwall-II’s) K = Klipsch (Pyle - Klipsch purchased Pyle. Drivers formerly assembled in Hope, Arkansas and subsequently in Hot Springs, Arkansas were then moved to Pyle in Huntington, Indiana) E = Eminence (Primarily woofers) V = Atlas (see also notes below) M = Electro Voice (also for the Eminence K-33-M in 1967) X = Atlas (e.g. K-55-X) Ti = Titanium series (new design with titanium diaphragms)

A quart should be way more that enough.. If it is not, the paint is to thick and will not hold up. There is a point of being good and a point of being overboard.

Maybe you have not been here long enough to know, but Greg started out on this FORUM right here and learned most of his speaker information right here on these pages from others here. Same goes for his woodworking skills, trial and error on veneer right here on these pages and learned about different veneer techniques and bubbled some of his first veneers right here! While I remain very impressed with his skill that he has achieved with veneer, I think he is overpriced on his work, but he gets the money he asks for.... A quote from PT Barnum comes to mind here. I worked in a custom cabinets shop for years, then later, a custom laminate shop and can tell you that greg has done some good woodworking, but I surely would not quote him here as some sort of a definitive answer to anything except veneer work. Roger

Nope, zero means you have used them all up, need to buy more from Chad. Chad is out as well.....been locking too many threads Black market rate is $17-20 for a package of three!

I am new to the Forum but will gladly answer any questions people have on setup and calibration of Home Theater based on THX specification and quidelines.

Just a couple observations here ...I just started a new thread on subwoofer placement ... 1. Place your subs in the middle of each side wall across from each other....directly in the middle of the length of the side walls, one on each side. You could do front and back as well, but your would have to put the rear sub into the wall since you have seats there. THX recommended spec for 2 subs is opposite each other on opposing walls in the center of the wall. Face the drivers inwards towards the center of the room. 2. Your surround speaker placements are backwards. You should have your RS-42's at the sides, with the null between the two rows of seats and the 2 RB-51's on the back wall for the rear's, 30 degrees each off center. This is also THX recommended spec. Surrounds should be bi/dipole speakers and rear's should be direct radiating (front firing). I can explain this in much more detail with the how's and why's if you like by email. But trust me, you should reverse your surround speaker placements. Your setup is very similar to mine ...what is the height of your surrounds (side and rear) ? I will also let you know what height they should each be at.

are you pumping the video out as well to a TV or projector and want the surround sound to fill the room? or are you just sitting watching it on your laptop and want surround sound around you in front of your laptop?

Thanks ...I always liked the phrase "Klipschome" ....

These are all computer speaker systems correct? Are you actually using them for a computer and desk? or as a poor man's home theatre system for a small room (10 x 10)? And if you are watching your HD movies on your PC , I'm assuming you have a 5.1 compatible audio card with optical or digital coax out?

Some speakers operate more efficiently on a lower setting ...so if you switch to 6, you need to make sure your speakers can also operate at that setting as well. But leaving things at 8 works for most people. Usually only higher end speakers will operate at 6 or 4 so then you can use that setting. For most people 8 is the default and works well with most equipment.

Steve...welcome to the Forums ... I will try to help out here as much as I can without making your brain hurt. Properly calibrating your receiver and room has many complex calculations to do it right. I just have a few comments and will answer your questions as well the best I can. You mention that you have RF-62's for surrounds ...which surrounds are you using them for? the rear? Reason I ask is due to proper placement of the speakers. Only your front speakers (LCR) should be Floors or similar as you want the speakers firing at approx. ear height in the seated position, or if they are higher up, aimed down to the seated position. The Surrounds (side) and Rear Surrounds should NOT be at ear level, firing directly into your head. These are meant to provide ambient sound and effects and should be mounted approx. 2m from the floor if seated position is on the floor. If the surrounds were placed in a room where most listeners are standing, then the surrounds would be mounted slightly higher (by a few feet) to make up the difference in ear height from seated to standing position. Ideally, you would use 2 RS-42 bi-pole (di-pole is better) for the Surrounds (side), with the null (point between the speakers) pointing at the seated position and mounted at 2m height. This will provide the best surround ambient soundfield and works with one or multiple rows of seating. For the Rear Surrounds, you would use 1 or 2 regular bookshelf RB-10 or RB-51 front firing speakers. Spacing if using 2 depends on the type of content and receiver modes you have available. Also, where is your center mounted in relation to the top of your RF-82s? You want to make sure that the center channel is within approx. 2 ft vertically of the L and R speakers. All 3 would ideally have their drivers at the same height. This allows for more accurate reproduction of localization and pans across the front sound field. Now, to your questions. 1. The HF and LF rows of speaker connectors are for Bi-wiring your speakers so that the lower frequencies and higher frequencies can be connected from seperate sources/amps etc or disconnected altogether (if you wanted to remove the lower frequencies from your speakers and only use the tweeters etc....There is a metal clip that should be mounted under these 2 terminals to connect them together and transfer the signal from your amp so that both High and Low frequencies are sent to the proper drivers in your speaker. So unless you are bi-wiring, it should make no difference whatsoever which set of terminals you connect your speaker wire to. 2. Most speakers and recievers are 8 Ohm ...you want to make sure that your reciever and speakers work on the same voltage etc ...if you send too much current to the speakers, you can fry internal components, corrode cheap and thin speaker wire etc ...The impedance is to make sure that the speaker is getting proper current to operate. There are testers and ways to check this, however unless you specifically need to adjust it due to a problem, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Key is to make sure you don't have 4 Ohm speakers running off an 8 Ohm amp or vice versa and this can cause overload to circuits in the amp and provide inefficient power to drive the speakers. 3. You should always use the autocalibration of your receiver as a starting point to manually tweaking your gear. The autocalibration will do a great job (some companies do it better than others - Denon, Pioneer, Yamaha etc) of setting up your channel levels, latency, and EQ based on your room settings. 9 times out of 10 this will save you hours of manual calibration and provide a good starting point to further adjust each speaker / channel for your room. But even if you just run the autocalibration, your sound will be greatly improved compared to out of the box settings. Key Notes on Autocalibration - Make sure the mic is placed at the central seating position as that is where it will take it's readings from and create the best sound field. Other seating areas of the room will not sound as good, especially off axis, but some recievers (Denon) have multiple mic readings and will adjust the sound for multiple seating positions, which is ideal. In a proper manual calibration, I would do readings with a multiplexer from each seated position and calibrate the EQ etc to have the best sound across all listening positions. This requires a lot of work and time and is not ideal or cost effective for most people. Also,make sure you run the AutoCal at Full 0db volume or Reference level of your reciever/amp. If this is too loud for your environment (it usually will be) or you will not be listening close to those levels, then running the Autocal at the loudest level in which you would set your reciever will give you a more accurate calibration for that volume level and will not require re-adjustment due to lowering the volume. In Short - run the Auto Calibration. 4. Ah ..the sub ... This is the biggest misconception in Home Theatre. The old rule of thumb was "just stick it in a corner"....this is however, the WORST spot to put a subwoofer. Now I will try and keep this short and sweet, but proper sub placement is based on something called Room Modes. Basically, the dimensions of any room, based on length, width, and height, produce waves of frequencies that depending on the distance (there is a calculation to determine all this) will cause boosted frequencies. Similar to what the other posted mentioned about being in the "dip or peak" of a wave, this is what creates bad bass response. Many time your seats are positioned in the peak, creating a boosted , worbly, make something rattle bass signal. Or they are in the dip, where the frequency is lowest, and you don't feel any bass at all. However, moving just a few feet can put you in the proper area of the wave, and provide the best bass response. The Room Mode, or frequencies for your room that will tend to be boosted by the room, can be toned down by proper placement of the subwoofer to eliminate the octave of the wave that will cause this boosted frequency to occur. I will get to phase in a moment. Rule of Thumb - if you are only using 1 Subwoofer, keep it in the front sound field (LCR wall) and put it in the center of the wall. Corners allow base frequencies to build up and un-naturally boost the base (Boundary Gain). Similar to how if you talk with the back of your head on a wall...as you move out from the wall, you will notice your voice loses a bit of base response. As you backup towards the wall again, the bass increases. This is Boundary Gain, and you do not want it because it is boosting the bass frequencies from what the reference level should be. The only time this is a good thing, is if you are using a passive, underpowered sub ...by putting it in a corner will help it get more "oomph". But louder is not better. Moving it to 2/3rds the length of the wall or 1/4 will also help. But never in the corner. Also, the crossover frequency of your reciever should be 80Hz, and the crossover settings on the sub won't matter if you disable it on the sub. Crossover settings on the sub are usually for passive connections that take the lower frequencies from the front L and R speaker feeds (speaker terminals on the back of the sub) and output them through the sub at the set frequency. If you are using a LFE connection to your sub then the internal cross over should be disabled anyways, and it's getting what the reciever is sending according to it's settings. When the sub is in passive mode and the setting is set to say 120Hz, you will hear things you should not coming out of the sub...even dialog at times. These higher settings are usually to make up for speakers that cannot reproduce lower frequencies properly or have proper mid-range and low-range woofers, so by setting the sub higher, these lower frequencies are allowed to be reproduced by the sub. Keep in mind sub's produce 2 types of sounds - low frequency effects and all frequencies below the frequency setting. This is where speaker type in the Reciever setup is so important. If you select Small (which you always should) the Reciever sends all frequencies lower than 80Hz to the subwoofer, along with specific LFE signals. If you select Large speakers, it assumes that the speakers subwoofers built in to produce those low frequencies, and only sends the LFE signals to your sub, allowing your speakers to produce the low bass frequencies them selves. Test this setting out and you will notice a big change in the sound. Now if you have killer floor towers and want to use their built in sub (if they go down to 25-35Hz) then go ahead, but in most cases, regardless of the size and type of your speakers, you will always select Small for the speaker type, allowing the low frequencies to be sent to the subwoofer. Putting the sub in the center of the wall reduces the boosted gain of the first octave modal frequency that your room is producing, allowing for smoother base response. Moving the sub to 1/4 or 1/6 etc along the wall will affect the 2nd and 3rd octave frequencies. So depending on which frequency of all walls is going to cause the largest boost, that is where you put the sub. In multi-sub (THX recommends at least 2) installs, the sub along each wall is placed in the correct spot to reduce the modal frequency that will cause the biggest boost. Phase - now this IS short and sweet. Basically, the Phase on a sub is used when the frequency is colliding with another frequency so that they can cancel each other out. So in the description above, where frequencies in the room are colliding and boosting the level of the signal, if you were to use 2 subs, fired at each other, in opposite phase from each other, then the frequency would cancel each other out and you would get smooth response. So in a perfect world, subs along each wall, firing at a sub on the opposite wall, in opposite phase would provide perfectly smooth bass response. The modal frequencies would cancel each other out no matter which wall or octave was causing the issue. In short - Subs that have Phase adjustments are better as they are configured for multi sub placement to eliminate these boosted frequencies. Same as dipole speakers do, so the they fire in opposite phase to the closest speaker, providing more accurate and smooth frequency response. If only 1 sub is present, it doesn't matter if you have it at 0 or 180. It only matters if you have 2 (unless your towers have built in subs ...then you may want to flip the phase. Please feel free to ask any more questions. I hope I didn't confuse you or ramble on too much. I could go on for days about this stuff. As you can see, there are many calculations involved to figuring out the best placement of a sub, and for location and height of all the speakers etc ..as well as screen size, distance etc ... I hope I was able to provide the answers you require and feel free to ask anything else. The more educated people are the better.