moray james

Very sorry to hear that you lost your Dad. I am happy though to read of your memories and to know that his system will carry on with you. Welcome to the forum.

Cal sound track to a move by the same name is very good.

16 fishes.

As a teen my first commercially made loud speaker was a pair of Altec A7 with 811B horns. Check out horn loudspeakers by JBL the Master Reference Seven Series and Danley Sound Lab in North America.

Get well soon Bruce, we all want you to be with us for a long long time.

just so we are all on the same page the preamp output for the right channel is sent to the stereo amplifier which will drive the right speaker. That right channel signal will be split using a simple one input to two output splitter which is then connected to both of the inputs of the right channel stereo amplifier. In this way you will feed both of the two channels of the stereo amplifier driving the right speaker with the exact same right channel signal. Running identical stereo amplifiers insures that both of the drivers in each speaker are in phase and are exactly level matched.

The double set of binding posts are actually so you can split the two crossover sections and drive them independently, tweeter and woofer and then you can run them with a stereo amp. Two identical stereo block amplifiers are what you want to use so they match in both sonics and in gain. Run one stereo amp per speaker channel. So the first stereo amp would be connected with one channel to the woofer section and the other channel to the tweeter section both channels being fed from your preamp out via a splitter to the amplifiers left and right inputs. Same arrangement for the other channel. Hope this helps.

jubs are more dynamic than the M2's and to me that would be of greater concern. Without hearing both you just are not going to know which you will be happy with.

I recently picked up a mint pair of JBL Sr4726a series ll speakers along with a pair of as new JBL 2226j woofers. These are for my brother. There was a follow up model of the SR4726a which used the 16 ohm 2226 woofer along with the same compression driver and horn as used in the SR4726a but with an upgraded crossover. Can anyone remember the model number of the later speaker or have a schematic for the crossover? I would like to upgrade the SR4726a speakers to the newer crossover in hopes of improved performance. Thanks for any help.

Happy birthday Paul W. Klipsch, thank you for all you did and for being the man you were.

my condolences to Ritchie, family and friends. So very sorry for your loss. I will light a candle for Barb.

you are right with a caveat, you can plug them in and listen and decide if you love them or not then if you want to to keep them you will need to support them. People tend not to listen and be lazy. You should not ship a KLF20 or a KLF30 with the mid motor in place either as it is heavy enough to break/snap off from the horn if the box is given a good shake. This is kind of the same with the EV DH 1506. If you don't shake them or drop them or move them not problem but they do need a shelf or a brace or a hangar to hold the motors weight. Great driver the DH 1506, like Bob Seger said "like a rock".

Altec A7 with 811b.my first store bought speakers, I wanted but could not afford a pair of Valencia with 511b horns

EV DH1A drivers are true S.O.T.A. compression drivers, there is nothing else like them and the more compact Neo motor versions which use the same diaphragms.

some brace work is going to be better than no brace work, this is minimal so don't expect a big difference. ferrofluid can have more or less impact upon driver damping (internal resonances) depends on the driver. The correct viscosity would be required and you don't know what that was so you are in the dark. A generic shot in the dark will at the least provide some extra heat transfer. Get some and try it, if you like it leave it in if you don't remove it.

it's ice at the outer edges!

Why don't you have a look see for a pair of Peavey FH1 cabinets, it's a better horn and a better cabinet (a tiny bit larger). It's not very likely you will beat the $200.00 price but if you can find them local that would make all the difference.

RIP Dave and condolences to the Mallette family.

The first 47 characters say it all thank you, "you can do what ever you want to your Klipsch speaker".

that's reproducing harmonics only everything over 6KHz. now imagine if you improved all the fundamentals and upgraded the mid?

no that's a deal! (the round ones are hard wood the flat one are soft wood)

Those horns should never be shipped with the drivers mounted to the horns. you can repair them.

Best keep a ball lock in that hitch if you want to keep your camper.

a used pair of Peavey SP1 but at the age they all are now a xover re cap will be manditory. be careful they will spoil you as they are better than a La Scala.The CH1 horns were designed by a couple of engineers who had left Electro Voice after Don Keele left EV. They are the real deal but they can be found for peanuts.