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What to attach to LaScala sides?


Coytee

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I've got a single LaScala that will be used for my center. I was going to wrap it in 3/4" plywood to beefen up the sidewalls and give me a clean motorboard to which I could attach a K510.

Called a cabinet shop (which by the way, I'm anticipating spending several thousands of dollars for new cabinets) and asked if they could do this?

In their defense, I did NOT tell them who I was nor that I had a pending order (my wife has been doing the cabinet stuff)

Anyways, the lady said they "could not" cut panels like this.

I sent her an email back asking for clarification... I mentioned that they were a cabinet shop and she was stating that they were 'unable' to cut some plywood rectangles essentially 2'x3'???

I digress....

Anyway.... I don't think that angle is moving too fast so I had another thought hit.

What if I took some nice (solid) 3/4" 1x6 (or 8 or 10) walnut / oak / other... boards, join them together into panels and glue/screw a layer of 3/4" solid walnut to the outside of the LaScala instead of a layer of 3/4" walnut plywood.

I know the plywood would have more strength but all I'm looking to do is beefen the sides to stop/slow them from resonating.

Would attaching solid wood panels instead of plywood panels create a problem with the boards 'breathing' differently than the underlying plywood?

I got the speaker for free so I don't have much to lose with it.

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I agree with Rick. Brace them. Make the cabinet guys fit them as they will be a little different side to side. I think you can order these straight from Volti and last I heard he is moving to Volunteer country, so he may end up just down the road from you.

vs7.jpg

lsbrace1.jpg

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Braces similar to those shown are the very best thing to do as they will stiffen both the cabinet side walls as well as the dog house walls. I would make the braces so they extend farther up the doghouse wall so they brace at least 2/3's of the dog house wall. I would make the braces 5/8" thick and I would use four braces per cabinet. Best regards Moray James.

PS: the dog house walls are not that much smaller in dimension to the main cabinet walls. For maximum bass impact all these panels need to be rigid. Brace work will pay off if done right.

Edited by moray james
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Compared to some on the forum, I have rudimentary wood working skills... might even pass as a beginner!!

That said, I was also thinking on adding the wedge inside but left that unsaid. The outer wrap layer would help hide any screws that I used to attach the wedge.

I have the understanding that the real offender in the LaScala comes from the sidewalls, not the doghouse. I don't want to say I'm not concerned about cost but for a single speaker, it won't matter. I've even thought about trying to find some exotic wood that I could use instead of walnut/oak/other.

I have a couple of hand tools, couple of power tools, table saw (rudimentary) so I probably have enough tools at hand to cob the idea together....

I'm primarily wondering the differences of gluing/screwing a 3/4" panel of plywood to the outside verses gluing/screwing a 3/4" panel of solid dimensional wood to the outside. I know the solid wood will expand/contract more than the plywood so would that be an issue over time?

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vs7.jpg

I wish someone would just market a LF section in 1" birch for sale that could be flat packed and mailed out to buyers just like these pictured here... I would buy a pair, or perhaps even three of them.

we could ad our own drivers of choice and cross over of choice.

Edited by Schu
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For my La Scalas... I went with some 3/4" birch plywood and I had it cut a little bigger than the La Scalas. I then glued and screwed it to the La Scalas. I then used a router with a flush cut bit on it to make them all match up I finished with some 1x3s to trim out the front.. I then got some Maple 1/4" finished plywood to glue over the 3/4" plywood, and used the router to trim it out again.

I did the the 3/4" on the sides, top, bottom, and rear. The 1/4" I am only doing on the top, and sides. The 1/4" finished Maple that I purchased is veneered MDF so the ends don't look like plywood. For me this works because I am making the front edge black so I don't get the reflections from the projector. I still have not completed one yet, but you can easily do a pair in a weekend yourself if you have the router, clamps and glue.

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Yes, the plywood will be more stable. The wedges made a huge difference in sound! The resonance was horrible on my cabinets before I re-glued and installed the wedges. Securing them from the outside of the cabinet and from the inside of the doghouse really firms things up!

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Well if you go with the hard wood panels you will need a thickness planer if you seal the wood movement should not be a problem. Making panels out of individual pieces of wood is harder than you think you have alternate the grain and should use a biscuit cutter to help glue them together . Rick

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I agree with the bracing method, did it on my LS's and heard the difference. If your set on wrapping, use the plywood, the solid stock will be a nightmare keeping it flat and you're right the solid stock will move at a greater rate than the ply. I still have my patterns for the bracing and would be happy to make paper copies and mail them to you.

Tom

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If anyone has a set of templates for the braces I could use some too. If you have a paper template and can scan it would be easy to get to anyone. If you don't have a scanner, and you send me a template, I will scan it, and send you a copy of the scan back so you can give it to whoever you like.

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wedges make a HUGE difference in the sound? really?

what differences are they making in the sound?

I wish I was better at describing sound but for me it was a huge improvement. My LaScalas had spent their life in a choir loft as speakers for an organ and the cabinets were quite dry with some veneer peeling at the corners. It is safe to assume the panels had shrunken a bit. They resonated horribly and the bass was quite flabby... you might even say they were flatulent! I inserted the wedges for a few months and just fitting them by friction made a difference. When I finally glued/sealed the cabinets and installed screws from both sides of the wedges it made the bass - mid-bass MUCH tighter and more clear.

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With the wedges why couldn't you use pocket holes for the screws underneath will never see them plus the glue does most of the holding. You could also fill the pocket holes also there are pocket hole jigs to help drill them. Rick

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For those that have never heard them... what I was once told by Jim Hunter is if you can tame the sidewalls, they will sound as though they have another octave (perhaps an overstatement?) of bass in them, much like the LaScala II.

He said they actually HAVE that sound already but the buzzing panels destroys it. Fixing the panels will make them sound much closer to the LaScala II in depth of bass.

I'm game for a template.

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