mustang guy Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Here is a corner. They are pretty much all the same. Bad. Get in there with some 80 grit to rough up the wood. The autobody filler adheres well. Here is an early stage after using a rasp on the still soft filler. Here is the method used to rasp. The front part of the rasp MUST BE flat against the body of the speaker, or you will end up with uneven and rounded edges. Repeat the filler and rasping until you have a nice edge and corner, then spray with some primer, like this. It take many repetitions to get it right: If you are covering with Duratex you are done. If you are painting, you will need to get out the spot putty to fill the rough parts. Here is what it looks like with 1 coat of Duratex. There will be two. I have already painted and restored the horn. I have the front wedge redone. I have the front face about 75% done. All I need it the bottom and back edges, and I will post some completed pics. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxx Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Excellent posting... Thanks for taking the time to take such good photo's...... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanm84 Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Looking good! Not everything needs to be wood veneer but fixing busted edges is the same! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ceptorman Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Nice work man, good looking finish. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MORE KLIPSCH PLEASE Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Ah yes the old Bondo fix......nice........ you go mustang guy......I like :-) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angusruler Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 nice corners! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share Posted September 13, 2014 Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Looking good! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quiet_Hollow Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Nice touch! Much improved. Are these repairs to the cabs from your shop rig, or are these strictly fix'er uppers for some other use? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share Posted September 13, 2014 (edited) Nice touch! Much improved. Are these repairs to the cabs from your shop rig, or are these strictly fix'er uppers for some other use? I had given a pair of these beaters to my son's fraternity with K-43's in them. What happened is they dropped one of them off the back of a truck and left it. I took this one back. I will be putting a K33 in it. I will be using it to make my shop a 7.4 system. 7 LaScalas, 2 THT's and 2 KPT-684's. I still have to run the wire to the back of the shop for the KPT's. One thing I did find was that according to Klipsch, the 684's are flat to 20Hz with eq. They should fill in the back of the shop nicely. All in all, adding this LaScala and the 2 KPT-684's should make this already great sounding system more uniform. Edited September 13, 2014 by mustang guy 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarheel Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Nice work and great documentation! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckAb3 Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Great work. Would the same approach work on MDF? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sancho Panza Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 I agree with everyone; out-Freakin'-standing! Normally, I hate Black, but for your shop, WoW! OK, I could live with a high gloss piano Black, or real wood grain black; or any, if the price is right. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Dee Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 outstanding work. go! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Great work. Would the same approach work on MDF? Yes. Bondo is a great filler for speakers. It doesn't shrink, adheres well, will sand perfectly flat and takes primer and paint well. When you fill holes or corners with MDF you have to be careful as the bondo is harder than the MDF and will sand at a different rate. Basically, using the same amount of effort when sanding the bondo will remove more of the surrounding MDF than the bondo if you don't pay attention. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerwoodKhorns Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 I had given a pair of these beaters to my son's fraternity with K-43's in them. What happened is they dropped one of them off the back of a truck and left it. I took this one back. I will be putting a K33 in it. ??? These boys need be forced to pay full retail for a set of Bose cubed. There must be more to this story. Otherwise, nice post. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muel Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 What kind of no good lily livered (insert more Yosemite Sam commentary here) varmint drops a LaScala off the back of a truck and leaves it?!? Well, nice repair job! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckAb3 Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Great work. Would the same approach work on MDF? Yes. Bondo is a great filler for speakers. It doesn't shrink, adheres well, will sand perfectly flat and takes primer and paint well. When you fill holes or corners with MDF you have to be careful as the bondo is harder than the MDF and will sand at a different rate. Basically, using the same amount of effort when sanding the bondo will remove more of the surrounding MDF than the bondo if you don't pay attention. Thanks!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 Great documentation and tips. I look forward to the next wave of photos. The La Scalas I rescued from 30 years in an Ohio bar to send to the local high school needed more Bondo than an AMC Gremlin. You're absolutely right about sanding Bondo on MDF. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 I had given a pair of these beaters to my son's fraternity with K-43's in them. What happened is they dropped one of them off the back of a truck and left it. +++ What??? Excuse me, I didn't finish the sentence; WHAT A BUNCH OF MORONS! I mean, really, I understand what it is to be an idiot in college. I was one, both my boys were idiots, but there IS a limit to stupidity! I'm sure you son didn't do that, but those other guys need to get a BIT of a clue that when somebody does something REALLY nice for you, the least you can do is show ordinary care to the gift. It's their loss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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