Will flush cutting router bit work on LaScala?

[Coytee]

Perhaps I should instead ask if it would work on 3/4" plywood?

 

If you had a beater LaScala and were going to cut the top off so you could built a separate top box, could you take a circular saw or jigsaw and cut most of the top off and then use a router & flush bit?

 

On looking at them (online) the image I see with them is using the 3/4" base as the guide to cut something like 1/4" or maybe counter top laminate.  I don't see anything showing a flush cut on 3/4" plywood.

 

Would it work?

 

 

[Turbox]

I think it might work. Its worth a try. im thinking the best thing might be to cut it as flush as possible using a circular saw. You coiuld either use a belt sander or the flush cut router. A hand plane or electric plane wont be any good. because of the ply wood grain, differences in each layer will take out chunks.

 

edit: I wouldn't use a jig saw, I think I would clamp on another piece of wood to be used as a guide to run a circular saw. this will at least give you a straight  cut. 

Edited October 4, 2014 by Turbox

[Ceptorman]

It might work for the high spots. its worth a try. im thinking the best thing might be to cut it as flush as possible and use a belt sander. a hand plane or electric plane wont be any good. because of the ply wood grain. differences in each layer will take out chunks.

 

edit: I wouldn't use a jig saw, I think I would clamp on another piece of wood to be used as a guide to run a circular saw. this will at least give you a straight  cut. 

THIS….use a straight edge with a circular saw. You can get a very straight cut this way.

[Coytee]

First admission:  I don't have a router nor do I have any bits

Second admission:  I wouldn't mind buying a router and some bits

 

 

Given that, I DO own a Milwaukee circular saw and don't mind getting a nice blade for it.

 

With the cost of a router and one/some bits....  would you cut the top off leaving a bit and spend the cash or, would you attempt to align it as perfectly as you can and try to flush cut it with the circular saw?

 

Realize this is a beater box, painted black.

 

I HAVE wondered (going back to the router) if it might look nice rounding the top corner off and putting a Khorn type collar under the top section.  This would allow the cut to be imperfect and perhaps hide most of the imperfections by rounding it over (I think?)

[moray james]

use a circular saw and screw down a piece of wood with a straight edge as a guide (you can fill the holes with filler later). Leave a very slight raised edge and you can hand sand down to a nice flush edge and surface.Best regards to you Richard. Moray James.

[jason str]

I use flush trim router bits regularly with good results.

 

As long as the bearing path for the bit is straight and smooth it would be my choice over a circular saw.

 

If you do go the circular saw method be sure you have a sharp blade & set the depth properly.

[WMcD]

I would use a circular saw to get within 1/16 or a millimeter.  That is to say, so that 1/16th of the side plates are left for trimming. This will probably require a shooting board.  That phrase might be used in other contexts, like with a plane.

 

Get a 24 inch long piece of 1 x 3 for a straight edge (or metal piece) and glue it to a piece of thin Masonite or ply or even plexiglass which is about 24 x 9 inches.  Make it so the length of the guide is up against the edge of the Masonite.  Then use the circular saw up against the 1 x 3 to cut off the edge of the thin piece (It is best to use the saw so the wide side of the baseplate moves along the board.   By this, you have a straight edge and also know exactly where the saw is going to cut.

 

The Professor made up a shooting board in Journey to the Bass of the Earth.  In that case, the straight edge was an aluminum "L" with plexiglass glued on with epoxy for plastic.  That dang Professor, he is standing in the way.  The saw will travel where he is standing. The cut will be made at the edge of Plexiglass to his right.  Again, we know it will be there because the same saw and blade was used to cut the plexiglass after the guide was glued in place.  Ply or Masonite works too but you can't see though it -- so you'll have to squint at a pencil line on the workpiece at the edge of the ply or Masonite.

 

But as you can imagine, the rig can be clamped to the piece to be cut and you know exactly where the saw blade will cut because you've trimmed it with the same saw and blade.  Wood will work as well of course and can be better in case you can't clamp and have to use some finishing nails to hold it in place.

 

BTW, the best practice in using a circular saw is to adjust the depth of cut (with it unplugged) to the minimal needed. 

 

Then you'll want to trim flush the 1/16 th or less which stands proud with a flush cutting bit.   The bit really doesn't want to cut too much wood and you make the "standing proud" ridge as small are possible.  I trust you get the idea.

 

- - -  -

 

You might have wondered how, for example, a decorator CW is made with the top plate meeting edge plate with such precision. There were some pictures on the forum years ago.  They showed that the top plate is made a smidge oversized and overhangs the sides by about 1 mm on each side when the box is clamped together for gluing.  Then a Klipsch craftsperson runs a router with a flush cut bit along the edge to trim it.   Neat trick. 

 

WMcD

Edited October 4, 2014 by William F. Gil McDermott

[Coytee]

In case anyone is wondering, the reason I'm thinking on doing this is:

 

I've got a K510 that I'm going to use.  LaScala is currently an empty box, no drivers installed at all (I don't even have the K400/77 for it)

 

The K510 is taller than the K400 but it's not as wide.

 

If I cut just a hole out for the 510, it will leave spaces on the sides.  What do I do?

 

Option 1:  Cut PART of the face of the motorboard out that would then, have another (removable) motorboard installed.  Doing this, I would imagine having to leave a bit of the original face to attach to.  Say, an inch border.  New face would be flush with attachment points being screw blocks inside.  Problem (for me) would be fitting the new piece in the hole (not so sure it would be a nice/square cut)

 

Option 2:  Since I intend to wrap LaScala with 3/4 plywood to stiffen sides, I could also make a new front motorboard, cutting out a hole for the 510 and making sure it goes through the inner, original, motorboard.  Strikes me as a nicer option.

 

Option 3:  Cut top off and make a new box for the top. 

Has me intrigued but, don't think I want a top section that can move/slide around so I'd have to fasten it down somehow.

[Coytee]

I DO have a piece of aluminum "straight edge", much like in your picture.  I've used it to good effect on other pieces of plywood as well as drawing straight lines (and then cutting) drywall.  It's two four foot pieces that splice together.  Obviously, with a two foot speaker, I would not need the full length.

[jason str]

Why not just brace the horn mouth ? 3/4" plywood will add alot of weight, you could just use 1/4" sheet & band the front with matching veneer.

 

I like option #3, you can then add a riser to match the Belle look. A set of rubber feet will keep the top from sliding around or if you still feel the need to attach a few small circles of Velcro will keep things secure. You can always screw it together too.

[mungkiman]

Cut it close with a circular saw. Turn upside down, and remove the doghouse door. Vent doghouse into new top box, and port out the rear.

[Coytee]

you can then add a riser to match the Belle look.

 

Ya know...  I had started typing out how I'd do it and that's about what I envisioned.  Though I called it the collar that is found on the Khorn, not the Belle.

 

I also anticipate installing wedgies on the inside.  The reason for wrapping it is essentially to cover the (plethora?) mistakes I might make while installing the wedgies.

[Marvel]

A flush cut router bit can have the top removed cleanly on two minutes I used a half inch bit to open up the doghouse on two ls I am working on. Using a circular saw would just be extra work and provide no benefit.

Bruce

[mustang guy]

The only thing with a router is it jumps around sometimes in thick plywood. I don't know why that is. I'd be very careful, cause if it gets a little sideways cause it takes off or bucks, you are gonna need some bondo. Oh and get a very good bit. Not an elcheapo.

[Rhetor]

Coytee is an awesome forum member who contributes much.

Anybody near enough to Knoxville that someone could help him with this? I know he would never ask.

Edited October 5, 2014 by Rhetor

[ryanm84]

A nice router with a half inch shank flush trim bit shouldn't have any trouble with plywood.

If you cut close to your line and leave just a small amount to trim, you'll rip right thru the remainder. A straight edge or other guide makes it super easy.

If I were closer to TN I'd be there in a minute. I'm itching for a new woodworking project! It only took a couple hours to veneer my Cornwall bases last weekend and I was done trying to figure out what else I could do.

[avguytx]

If I were closer, I'd come armed with router and bits, too. Always glad to help out.

[ClaudeJ1]

Perhaps I should instead ask if it would work on 3/4" plywood?

 

If you had a beater LaScala and were going to cut the top off so you could built a separate top box, could you take a circular saw or jigsaw and cut most of the top off and then use a router & flush bit?

 

On looking at them (online) the image I see with them is using the 3/4" base as the guide to cut something like 1/4" or maybe counter top laminate.  I don't see anything showing a flush cut on 3/4" plywood.

 

Would it work?

YES. I saw the Klipsch factory guys use one on a LaScala myself. That's how they get the perfect corners.

[tigerwoodKhorns]

In case anyone is wondering, the reason I'm thinking on doing this is:

 

I've got a K510 that I'm going to use.  LaScala is currently an empty box, no drivers installed at all (I don't even have the K400/77 for it)

 

The K510 is taller than the K400 but it's not as wide.

 

If I cut just a hole out for the 510, it will leave spaces on the sides.  What do I do?

 

Option 1:  Cut PART of the face of the motorboard out that would then, have another (removable) motorboard installed.  Doing this, I would imagine having to leave a bit of the original face to attach to.  Say, an inch border.  New face would be flush with attachment points being screw blocks inside.  Problem (for me) would be fitting the new piece in the hole (not so sure it would be a nice/square cut)

 

Option 2:  Since I intend to wrap LaScala with 3/4 plywood to stiffen sides, I could also make a new front motorboard, cutting out a hole for the 510 and making sure it goes through the inner, original, motorboard.  Strikes me as a nicer option.

 

Option 3:  Cut top off and make a new box for the top. 

Has me intrigued but, don't think I want a top section that can move/slide around so I'd have to fasten it down somehow.

 

Option 4 - cut out the motorboard and install a flat piece of wood and do the ported bass mod.  Then flip the La Scala over so this is at the bottom and put the new horn in a separate enclosure that sits on top of the bass caninet.  The height should also be better as the mids will be closer to ear level. 

[Taz]

The only thing with a router is it jumps around sometimes in thick plywood. I don't know why that is. I'd be very careful, cause if it gets a little sideways cause it takes off or bucks, you are gonna need some bondo. Oh and get a very good bit. Not an elcheapo.

 

In my limited experience with using routers.  My problems come when get in a hurry and try to remove too much material to fast.

Go slow, keep your cuts shallow, and try to lay the speaker so the router is sitting on top of the speaker with each cut.

 

I prefer to cut so the cut enters the wood from the outside and turns to the rear.  If you cut from the inside of the edge it is more difficult to get a good finished cut.  The wood is more likely to break out at the edge,  This causes operator frustration and should be avoided as much as possible.