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rlmerrell69

Marty Sub? Tuba HT Sub? Dayton Audio Sub Kit?

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Good day everyone,

 

After giving it a lot of thought, I pulled the trigger on plans to build a Tuba HT Sub... BUT...

Then continued to read the forms here and there. I've never done any testing or heard how these 3 subs listed in the title perform and compare.

 

I started to wonder, what the opinions of those here and there think about the differences between the subs and how they perform? I'm a 85% movie 15% music person. So really feeling John Wick's pistol bang gets me thrilled. Feeling my seat vibrating from the opening scene of Prometheus takes my breath away. I couldn't help but to wonder what the experience is like for those who own these subs? I know I can't use my room size and ears to match with someone else that has experience with these subs. Everyone has different ears and room sizes.

 

The question I have is, Which sub gets me the that bang form John Wick and seat shaking from Prometheus? I don't think the DA Sub Kits would get me that, considering the price for one of those is a bit higher than the Full Marty or Tuba HT and they're sealed. I suppose it's a battle between the Full Marty and Tuba HT? Space isn't really an issue, cost is a considerable factor. Also, I can't find any build plans for the Marty Subs. I have included pictures and dimensions as best as I could. I haven't met anyone near me who may have built these subs to hear them. I live in the corner south tip of Texas(RGV). I'd like to hear thoughts, opinions and or suggestions! I'm pretty curious.

 

My current setup in progress:

Receiver: Onkyo TX-RZ810

Fronts: RP-8000F

Center: RC-62ii

Rears(Working on getting these): RB-81ii or RP-600M otherwise i'm using my Quintet speakers

Subwoofer: SW-112 Reference Series

 

Note: Movies listed are just references. I have a circular saw, i'm curious if it may be better to buy a flat pack and glue it together. Those Marty Sub flat packs are pretty considerable by the price compared to buying a couple more tools and cutting it myself. Although, I wouldn't turn down gaining some wood-working'ish experience. 

1396987351_2019-03-2118_12_37.thumb.jpg.a33334c33fd959ce34d1247212be1f7d.jpg

136007297_2019-03-2118_13_54.thumb.jpg.d169e7c68e0a42ace6baf5a1ce90f600.jpg

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It all depends on what you want.  I'll speak in generalities.  The chest thump from gun shots is generally in the 50 to 70 Hz range.  Couch vibrations are in the low 20's and below.  Horn subs play the cleanest but are huge and normally go low 20's without room gain.  Big ported subs can certainly go lower and loud but not as clean.  Many people use these if they're mostly used for HT.  Horns when mostly music.  Again, these aren't absolutes rather rules of thumb and there are certainly exceptions.

 

 

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I'd agree with that sentiment. 

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I don't think you can really go wrong with each model you mentioned.  But here's my 2 cents:

 

If you use or plan on using horn loaded mains, then I'd build myself something horn loaded, a Tuba HT or a cinema F20.  Horn loaded mains mean horn loaded subs.  Keep in mind a horn is usually a bit more difficult to build.

 

If your main speakers have direct radiating bass drivers (reference series) then I'd go for a direct radiating sub (or two 😀)

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1 minute ago, Wim M said:

then I'd build myself something horn loaded, a Tuba HT or a cinema F20.  Horn loaded mains mean horn loaded subs.  Keep in mind a horn is usually a bit more difficult to build.

Cinema F-20 is definitely easier to build than the Tubas.

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If you go Marty and want easy check out GSG audio:

 

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Horn loaded subs put out clean effortless bass, its worth the extra effort if this is the goal.

 

The THTLP just stands on end firing up into the ceiling using minimum floor space.

 

What kind of system components are you using ?

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54 minutes ago, jason str said:

Horn loaded subs put out clean effortless bass, its worth the extra effort if this is the goal.

 

The THTLP just stands on end firing up into the ceiling using minimum floor space.

 

What kind of system components are you using ?

 

My current setup in progress:

Receiver: Onkyo TX-RZ810

Fronts: RP-8000F

Center: RC-62ii

Rears(Working on getting these): RB-81ii or RP-600M otherwise i'm using my Quintet speakers

Subwoofer: SW-112 Reference Series

 

2 hours ago, babadono said:

If you go Marty and want easy check out GSG audio:

 

I've been checking them out, it seems  pretty reasonable. But it also seems real fun building it myself.

 

4 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

Big ported subs can certainly go lower and loud but not as clean.  Many people use these if they're mostly used for HT.  Horns when mostly music.  Again, these aren't absolutes rather rules of thumb and there are certainly exceptions.

 

Hmmm, my leaning meter is still right smack in the middle for Marty Subs or Tuba HT. 

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You could easily get by using the 12" driver version for that setup, the 15" driver version would be total overkill.

 

 

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3 hours ago, jason str said:

You could easily get by using the 12" driver version for that setup, the 15" driver version would be total overkill.

Hmm, you make a good point there. I'll look at the 12'' plans for the Tuba if I could understand the plans well enough to see what measurements I need for a 12inch. If I decide to go with this plan, I may still stick with the 15''. I'd like to get acquainted with my low skill levels before trying to perfect a 12 incher. I just thought of a crazy question, wall mounting a Tuba? Then make floating shelves between the tubas(if I mount them on the front walls only) but not touching the Tubas. One massive wall-mounted entertainment system.

 

3 hours ago, Shiva said:

How far are you from this Marty, somewhere in Oklahoma.   Price is nice too. 

 

I'm from Texas, very south tip of Texas.

 

3 hours ago, Shiva said:

Everything you might want to know, if building Marty subs.

 

Thanks for the link, i'm going over it now.

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I have owned them all, including Tapped Horns. My vote is the F-20 or the Tuba HT Low Profile.

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I own several of the Dayton Audio kits with flat packs.  I have the Reference 15 (sealed) using a Yung SD500 w/bass boost (bass boost needed for a sealed sub, no bass boost for ported).  This has the High Output sub driver and is my favorite.

 

I also have a pair of Umax 15 (sealed) powered by a pair of Inuke 3000dsp.  The sound is excellent.

 

If you decide to go with the Dayton Audio DIY kits or DIYSoundgroup.com offerings, I highly recommend the flat packs.  Yes they can be put together using only glue and tape, I did just that and it works.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/2978222-diysoundgroup-flat-pack-can-you-really-put-together-using-only-tape.html

 

Let me know if you want further info on the DIY Dayton Audio kits or the flat packs.

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I highly recommend you build or have built a THTLP I’ve owned lost of subs and the effortless bass that these put out is unmatched IMO. I have a F-20 also and it performs real close to the THTLP so that would be my second choice. Well worth the effort and again unmatched cost/performance wise.

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I highly recommend you build or have built a THTLP I’ve owned lost of subs and the effortless bass that these put out is unmatched IMO. I have a F-20 also and it performs real close to the THTLP so that would be my second choice. Well worth the effort and again unmatched cost/performance wise.


THT / THTLP is amazing.
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On 3/26/2019 at 10:48 PM, ClaudeJ1 said:

I have owned them all, including Tapped Horns. My vote is the F-20 or the Tuba HT Low Profile.

I have also owned several 12", 15", and 18" bass reflex subs, the 18's being the best but ALL of them suck compared to THT, F-20, or Tapped Horns using 12, 15, and 21" drivers. I have tried them all. Best bang for the buck is the THT LP, which is the same FOOTPRINT as a Cornwall. Get 2 of those and you will NEVER need to upgrade. Or you can waste your time and money on the others, which you will eventually sell, like I did.

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Hey rlmerrell69,

Good luck with your system, and making your choices. I'm not an expert but I built a Tuba HT a few months ago and it is outrageous...if you are looking for thunderous, house shaking lows, it will deliver. I made the 30" model, and used a Dayton Ultimax 15" driver powered by a Dayton Audio SPA250 DSP plate amp.

I reviewed it recently in a post about building a horn from a damaged 12 Klipsch sub...which I repaired instead and built the THT.

I will never be looking for another subwoofer...ever...the THT amazing. 

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Posted (edited)

Not to sound repetitive, but I also endorse the THT.  I build a ~30" unit a few years ago, using a 15" Dayton driver.  Dialed in properly, it extends super-clean bass down into the low 20hz range.  Turn it up and you can quite literally shake pictures off the walls.  Just limitless bass potential, and it never distorts or gets wooly sounding.  Put on some dubstep or other bass heavy music and watch people's jaws drop!

 

The only downside that I can find is that they are BIG and HEAVY.  I bet it weighs 200+lbs.  I had to move mine a few months ago to re-do some flooring.  It was all I could do to get it across the basement.  There is no way I'll ever get it out of there.  I'll have to sell it with the house, haha.

 

It's the giant wooden cube under the sailboat.  It just dwarfs my LS bass bins!

IMG_0712(1).jpg

Edited by Tarheel TJ
Added a pic
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56f21cf9a37f938a77570099c35cb4f6.jpg

 

That’s mine at my workplace.

A THTLP trimmed out like my LS splits, with removable wheels on both the short edge and the long edge. Handles too, and a built-in (and recessed) plate amp.

 

Makes the splits look tiny.

 

Boy, does that combo rock.

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2 hours ago, codewritinfool said:

56f21cf9a37f938a77570099c35cb4f6.jpg

 

That’s mine at my workplace.

A THTLP trimmed out like my LS splits, with removable wheels on both the short edge and the long edge. Handles too, and a built-in (and recessed) plate amp.

 

Makes the splits look tiny.

 

Boy, does that combo rock.

It's all about the WAVELENGTHS and their PROPORTIONS. No free lunches with Physics!!

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