Additionally, is anyone running a McIntosh or other amp off the 4 ohm taps to power rf7 s? Is that impedance dip at x over worth it sonically, and what did you notice as a difference? Does your amp need to work harder/generate more heat, and in your opinion is this worth it? 

Hello 👋 I have an Onkyo RZ-70 and I'm wondering if it's okay to use with rp 600m ii's or nah? Thanks 😊 

Hi there,   Long time lurker, first time poster!   For those who know, these speakers do incredibly well when supplied with high current amplification (especially given the suckout at the crossover point). I've tried three amps with these speakers, and I plan to post reviews in the coming weeks for the RF7 iii with a single-ended point to point, hand-made tube amp (KT-88), a Rotel 1572 mkii, and a vintage (but recently completely refurbed and brought back to spec) Mcintosh MC7300. In the manual, the MC7300 supposedly can output "up to" 85 amperes--quite a bit of current, given that many home electrical panels for the entire house are 100 amp units.    I liked all combinations, but I loved the MC 7300 so much that I wound up getting the RC 1572 mkii from Rotel for the preamp stage (because I loved the integrated pairing, but not as much as the Mac), ditched the integrated, and ditched the single ended tube amp as well. I am very happy with this setup, and I only plan to do minimal upgrades going forward (for a while anyway) on my main system, which will include things like different phono cartridges, maybe a dedicated streamer, but for the most part I will be investing in more room treatment. I am consistently blown away by these loudspeakers, despite their lack of mid-range presence (which I have a curious take on), being a 2-way speaker. They bring a massive soundstage, a great amount of depth, and of course, the bass is something else in the right environment. I listen to everything from pop to classical, to prog metal, to jazz, and I think these speakers have some staying power in that they do a great job with everything (not amazing, but great). These will not be my end game speakers, but they will endure, and may even compliment my next set of loudspeakers, rather than having them replaced.    My question is: what is the physics behind high-current amplification being more optimal for certain speakers, such as the rf7-iii? My Mcintosh is a later unit, but still ca. 30 years old. I would think that a modern toroidal integrated, or even a low power, boutique (higher ish in my case) tube amp would outshine a vintage unit such as the MC7300; however, it appears that the Mac won out and besides wattage the biggest difference in terms of technical spec (and neglecting simple personal preference with the matching of amp and speaker) is current.    I am aware of the watts = amps x volts equation, and the correlation of each bit mathematically. My question is, why in this case and others like it, is current so important?   What is happening physically to make the speakers happier with more current? I barely use 30 W of an available RMS 300 available (with actual peaks handled apparently MUCH higher).   For speakers this efficient (know the 101 db is basically anechoic BS, more like 90-95 in a real environment, but still efficient), 300W is completely ridiculous, but I guess because of the equation mentioned above, watts are important for current? BUT in real time, the wattage output is nowhere near 300W, more like 3-20. So again, why is current so important? How is my 30 year old amp outperforming what I would assume to be a better modern amps? What is happening to speakers that love high current in order to acheive more satisfactory sound?   Thanks!      

I'm voting for a P27c....

Hello 👋 I see that the RMS on the rp 600m ii says 100watts... I've got a Onkyo RZ-70. Is it too much for these speakers? I don't want to f them up, should I not use anything above 100watts?

Had some parts built my own also.

Measure the OTHER speaker and verify a similar resistance reading. If so, you're good. Also, take that OTHER speaker and connect it to the wires of the suspected speaker. If the replacement speaker works, the receiver is good.   If the terminal connections on the back of the suspect speaker were to come loose but not touch, you'd have an open circuit and to the receiver it would be harmless. If the SPEAKER wires shorted together and the receiver has a protection mode then the receiver would detect a much lower resistance than the 3.X ohms you measured and would go into protection mode. Once this "short circuit" was removed and the receiver re-booted, if the protection mode is working properly, your receiver should be fine.   Report back with your findings.

I want a new Bugatti, but they cost too much.  Breaking that ^^ sentence down: there is one fact and one opinion. It's a fact that I want one, it's my opinion that the car costs too much.  Many times on this forum, people say (x) is "priced too high, costs too much, is not worth it, OR it's worth more, is priced too low, etc." Worth is between the one selling and the buyer(s).   Not that it's any of my business, but why are you letting the price bother you?  I hope they sell the he!! out of them and expand into OjaScala. Not my money, not my monkey, not my business.

Hello,   Have had a pair of Klipsch Heresy HWO’s for about 40 years. Serial #172Y421. Anyone confirm what year these were made? In 2021 I spent $280 to spruce them up…terminals replaced, caps replaced, pull out crossover. They still sound great to me with an old NAD 3155 amplifier. Anything else I need to do to speakers to maximize sound quality? Are there different versions of Heresy…3 or fours? Do they sound better than my old HWO’s?    

It’s not price gouging. Look that term up and get back to me.