Jump to content
  • Recent Topic Activity

  • Recent Posts

    • two Heresys wired in series...so that the center image was wider than pin point enter.  I experimented with clocking those two also. I thought the Heresy was awesome,but I felt ultimatelythat a single was the best solution.     Single Cornwall... sounded great for 5.1 music,but I felt the Heresy was a better center channel for Home Theater. There was something advantageous about the scale of the Heresy in relation to the two mains where the mains would get burried by a larger center speaker in HT usage.   For 5.1 music,a full size center was better.
    • I actually have a NIB miniDSP HD, microphone and plenty of high quality channels of amplification on hand but have decided I want all my speakers to be as plug and play friendly as possible. I've been tinkering with speakers for a long time now and have a few sets that sound pretty dam good already.    The Chief did in fact rework a set of networks for the McLaren 905's (kpt-904's) for home use but those things are pretty huge. Either way I'm happy, just think if Klipsch could throw together a 2-way, Chorus type speaker with these parts- even if it ended up being a complete break away from the Heritage line they'd be one kick-*** speaker. 
    • What's the blue stuff? Rice? Or a Sea Cucumber (had that once at a real Chinese restaurant with tempura soft shelled crab) Salmon looks good, never had it like that but I love it!
    • @ssh nice setup! Love the Indian, and that color reminds me of the Brandywine on the late 60s GM factory rods!
    • High current amp and good capacitors allow for power to get through dynamics and impedance dips. Changing the tap from 8 ohms to 4 ohms has it's trade-offs and in most cases, makes no real difference.  I have owned the RF 7, and 7II's.  I used them with SS, hybrid, pro and tube gear.  
    • I'd go with identical subs as well.  The lesser sub will always limit you to some extent.
    • Additionally, is anyone running a McIntosh or other amp off the 4 ohm taps to power rf7 s? Is that impedance dip at x over worth it sonically, and what did you notice as a difference? Does your amp need to work harder/generate more heat, and in your opinion is this worth it? 
    • Hello 👋 I have an Onkyo RZ-70 and I'm wondering if it's okay to use with rp 600m ii's or nah? Thanks 😊 
    • Hi there,   Long time lurker, first time poster!   For those who know, these speakers do incredibly well when supplied with high current amplification (especially given the suckout at the crossover point). I've tried three amps with these speakers, and I plan to post reviews in the coming weeks for the RF7 iii with a single-ended point to point, hand-made tube amp (KT-88), a Rotel 1572 mkii, and a vintage (but recently completely refurbed and brought back to spec) Mcintosh MC7300. In the manual, the MC7300 supposedly can output "up to" 85 amperes--quite a bit of current, given that many home electrical panels for the entire house are 100 amp units.    I liked all combinations, but I loved the MC 7300 so much that I wound up getting the RC 1572 mkii from Rotel for the preamp stage (because I loved the integrated pairing, but not as much as the Mac), ditched the integrated, and ditched the single ended tube amp as well. I am very happy with this setup, and I only plan to do minimal upgrades going forward (for a while anyway) on my main system, which will include things like different phono cartridges, maybe a dedicated streamer, but for the most part I will be investing in more room treatment. I am consistently blown away by these loudspeakers, despite their lack of mid-range presence (which I have a curious take on), being a 2-way speaker. They bring a massive soundstage, a great amount of depth, and of course, the bass is something else in the right environment. I listen to everything from pop to classical, to prog metal, to jazz, and I think these speakers have some staying power in that they do a great job with everything (not amazing, but great). These will not be my end game speakers, but they will endure, and may even compliment my next set of loudspeakers, rather than having them replaced.    My question is: what is the physics behind high-current amplification being more optimal for certain speakers, such as the rf7-iii? My Mcintosh is a later unit, but still ca. 30 years old. I would think that a modern toroidal integrated, or even a low power, boutique (higher ish in my case) tube amp would outshine a vintage unit such as the MC7300; however, it appears that the Mac won out and besides wattage the biggest difference in terms of technical spec (and neglecting simple personal preference with the matching of amp and speaker) is current.    I am aware of the watts = amps x volts equation, and the correlation of each bit mathematically. My question is, why in this case and others like it, is current so important?   What is happening physically to make the speakers happier with more current? I barely use 30 W of an available RMS 300 available (with actual peaks handled apparently MUCH higher).   For speakers this efficient (know the 101 db is basically anechoic BS, more like 90-95 in a real environment, but still efficient), 300W is completely ridiculous, but I guess because of the equation mentioned above, watts are important for current? BUT in real time, the wattage output is nowhere near 300W, more like 3-20. So again, why is current so important? How is my 30 year old amp outperforming what I would assume to be a better modern amps? What is happening to speakers that love high current in order to acheive more satisfactory sound?   Thanks!      
  • Forum Statistics

    • Total Topics
      165.3k
    • Total Posts
      2.4m
  • Member Statistics

    • Total Members
      49712
    • Most Online
      4982

    Newest Member
    JimL85
    Joined
×
×
  • Create New...