MC39693

The way to a man's heart and maybe his amplifier is always through Prairie raised world class steak, smoked on an open flame and fine Quintarelli Amarone. Maybe even some Hawaiian rum as a chaser. I can't imagine your build not suiting your system since you have total control and can change items out, plus your work looks awesome for someone without a machine shop. I'll have to see if my electrician son-in-law wants a challenge to match up to your work ... esthetics not a chance, but if I buy parts and lay them out ... he'll rise to the challenge.

Did you happen to say where you purchased the board from? I know where some of the rest of your parts came from (PM) but not sure if you have mentioned board source? Very nice work. If you ever tire of your build ... I'd offer you a very fine Alberta Steak Dinner with some also very fine Italian Amarone wine! And some money!

I only have experience with Denon. The Audessy room correction (x32) is great. Per channel, auto AND manual configuration is critical. They also have an app that allows even more per channel control, which I will buy. Also be aware of your connectivity e.g. unbalanced vs balanced and if you have an external DAC you want to keep. I am padantic re cabling and I like the layout of Denon/Marantz connectors all in line at bottom of receiver so I can use angled banana plugs in a nice clean line or straight connectors to horizontal patch panel. Assignable configurations per input device is also very useful. I actually have ended up by passing the DAC on my Denon for music in preference for both my CD player, music server and external DAC. I use the external CD, music server and DAC for music then straight HDMI for movies. A preamp/power amp or “music only” integrated amp is in my future but I started with flexibility and configuration as key priorities.

@jimjimbo I'd like to discuss with you, I have a need for exactly these drivers/horns... did you read my mind all the way to Calgary? I just completed Super Heresy on a set of 1984 V1.5 (as noted by @Frzninvt above) and removed tweeter, woofer and XO for the updates which now my son in law wants in order to build a set. So, to complete the setup I need what you are selling. Send me a PM and let me know if you are willing to ship to Canada. My other alternative is for this forum to suggest an update for a Heresy cabinet for an all together different horn/driver midrange for the Super Heresy and then I can reuse my existing K-53/K-701 set that are currently still in the Super Heresy. But, JimJimbo's driver/horn is a pretty cost effective solution! Thanks Mike

How am I going to explain this to my wife after the Super Heresy setup? I've been thinking about getting a set of Cornwalls and now this. Can't wait to see what magic comes out of the hat!

@Mila1924 along the same lines as your question on the cabinets ... lots to find in the forums, search may be your friend. I'd start by understanding what you have and what / why you feel like changing it. Are you crossovers original ... etc. Take a fun read through Technical Modifications ... everything you need is likely in there! And, welcome to the forum.

Good, I hope they work for you. I like the expanding plug and the thumb screw is easy to use, including stacked with other banana plugs, e.g.on already finished cables that might not have a good fit to the binding posts.

If, like me you have ( had) 38 year old crossovers, likely you will hear an improvement in separation and within the 3 bands... also if you want to do the work yourself it can be very rewarding as long as you keep the soldering iron away from burning yourself! Simple answer yes, a great way to learn a bit more about your speakers even if you buy a crossover vs make one.

This is going to be a great read and gesture, good on you Matt.

@sctim that's a great deal. You have Heresy 1's, as noted above vintage 1978 with drivers... K-77-M, K-55-V and K-22-E. There's lots of details esp. under Technical Modifications for all kinds of updates / fix including working on the veneer (e.g. Watco or Howard's Restore either in walnut will help a lot) and light sanding / 000 steel wool. You have an E type crossover with "oil can" capacitors which may be worth changing, but listen to them for a while first. As noted above Bob Crites is a great source for advice, parts etc. If you solder, the E crossover is an easy update on your own too. Again, tons you can do it is up to you to determine how much or how little. Perhaps search Heresy in the search bar and you'll find a treasure trove of information. Well done!

I only have experience with I and 1.5, I think it likely boils down to the sound you like and whether or not you want to do upgrades eg. to crossover and/or drivers. Do you like the original Klipsch sound or newer technology sound? Any chance you can listen to all three? If you like the upgrades hobby then the I and 1.5 allow easy access to cabinet internals and you can make as many or few updates as you want. But if you like the newer version sounds and want to plug and play then go for a newer set.

@SmthngWcked I have used the following banana plugs with good results. A couple of nice features; they expand by turning the red or black thumb screw so they fit most any size binding post. You can stack them ... I use them sometimes with other banana plugs that don't fit well in a particular binding post. Not cheap compared to some but way cheaper than top end ones and have similar functionality. https://www.parts-express.com/angled-locking-and-stacking-banana-plug-with-dual-set-screws-poly-carbonate-shell-and-insu--091-3608

Calgary version ... Heresy 1985 V1.5, updates including; B&C 12CL76 woofer and ALK CSW with second order LF added ... now @ClaudeJ1recipe ... although the CSW midrange cap is still a 2.2 uF (4.0 is on order). New back panel is a composite of cork on high density foam board and 1/8th inch fir plywood all laminated together. Parts Express Precision Port, foam lining in the cab, and new 12 awg wiring and 5 way binding posts. I kept the original back panel in case I need to revert. Definitely more and deeper base and I do think the midrange is better. Thanks to all who have contributed in this thread, especially @ClaudeJ1 . I have more to do for "finished" version, but my ears like where this is at.

The responses were about which receiver/amp to use. But you also mentioned power supply and DAC at the outset. I defer to others on the power supply. For the DAC, there have been discussion in other threads on the DAC question. I purchased a Cambridge Audio DacMagic Plus and put it in line with my Blue Ray player along with some Goertz silver wire interconnects to a Denon x4300h. The audio for CD, USB and Bluetooth is much better now on the HT system, and only cost about 1/4 of the price of a new AVR. The amp switch article @dtr20 referenced is informative, thanks for that. As the article suggests, separate speakers if you are going for a tube amp is likely the best way. I'm currently working on the WAF for an audio only second system that will be tube amp driven. Leave the HT to the world of digital and take audio to the tube side.

Thanks for the v1.5 specifics, I have a pair that I was thinking of updating to Claude’s configuration so now know it will be worthwhile! re. Updating internal cables, there was a thread on that. I have been trying different cables from amp to speakers and when I make a new favourite, the second place gets altered to be the internal cables. Keeps me out of trouble and busy in the basement soldering etc. Not sure I hear a difference but it’s a hobby, no one’s paying me for this. Re. Caps, again many discussions on this. Budget and reasonable sense of what you can actually hear should prevail, but like speaker cables, I cycle my caps between 3 sets of crossovers, E, E2 and ALK Universal and two sets of Heresy.

Parts Express BPA-38G or nickel coating... well quoted in these forums. They are on 4 Heresy speakers I have. I have built 11 speaker patch panel and individual speaker wall plates using these. Much better than plastic mash ups.

I am a neophyte re tubes. I heard a MA252 in a good shop with a very simple setup, lots of carpet, soft furniture and wall coverings... it was excellent. I think there is one in my future. It would be interesting to hear a MA252 and a MA230 in the same setting, A/B type test.

Definitely keepers! Fix the crossovers and enjoy. These and the MEL CECAA850 have are two of the nicest I've seen anywhere.

Re. the original request, if you are ever in Victoria BC, I'd be willing to audition a pair of 1980 HBR I have which include all new E crossover I built. Of course in Canada the $$$ are worth more. Or something like that. FYI going rate for Heresy I in Alberta/BC seems to be $650 Cdn., not including a new crossover, which cost me around $250 Cdn. in parts.

The beauty and danger in digital, resolution doubles as fast as the market will absorb it, about 2 years and then ...

There are a couple of dealers in Toronto that claim to be and could well be Denon authorized dealers who advertise on eBay. I have never purchased a piece of gear remotely!

John your assessment of the Marantz vs Denon lines is what most folks arrive at. The Marantz are a bit more expensive, you decide if it is warranted. I got the Denton X4300 as Best Buy was clearing inventory when the 4400 was coming to market, big mark down. If you have the time wait for a sale if buying new. There aren’t many Marantz SR that show up on Canada Audio Mart either, and that like all used markets is buyer beware! If you can listen to both and check features you really Need, then wait for a good price. Good luck hunting!

JohnK, I have a demon x4300h driving 2 Heresy, 2 MARTIN Logan Clarity, 1Martin Logan Theater I center channel, 2 small Bose height speakers and a Velodyne DD10, so you should be fine. I don’t have experience with newer Klipsch. Sounds like you want to do HT and the denon can do multiple modes incl 2 channel. So, I suggest don’t skimp on mains and center channel and a small sub.

The horns look great, Interested to see where you go with this. The B&C DE110 and DE120 drivers are bolt on so you will need to work that into any version for them.

Here is what I built for a new E crossover... 1) Jantzen Z - silver 2.2 uF from parts express 2) Erse 2.5 mH solid core inductor ( one of the two solid metal frames on the original... no tabs sticking out) from parts express 3) Autotransformer from Bob Crites (the solid metal frame with tabs) Re. Capacitors, if you ask 100 people you’ll get 101 answers with a lot of debate. I had no reason other than wanting a middle of the road price and there were good reviews. You can spend an awfull lot or very little on capacitors, read everything you can find in these forums before you buy. Also remember US items will add foreign exchange, more shipping and customs or minimum GST, add those up and you pay about a 60% premium for US parts. There are Canadian suppliers but hard to beat Parts Express and other US suppliers for variety. I had all items shipped to a lace in US I was visiting and saved on shipping and customs. But you have to plan ahead for that. There is a whole lot of material in this forum you should read, capacitors, solid vs open air inductors, cables incl. inside the cabinet, new binding posts, internal modifications and wood cabinet care. Many capable folks here, just read all you can and make your own choices.