JiminSTL Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Well, darn! There goes my chance for a $250 B-A-R-G-A-I-N!!! To think I was about to do you a favor and take it off your hands . . . . 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 You are asking questions that bass box or Win ISD can better answer based on science. No T/S specs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 (edited) A woofer/subwoofer is the easiest speaker system to design. With T/S parameters, the results are very reliable and predictable. It sounds like you would be best served by getting a copy of BassBox and design and build your own sealed sub. Sealed subs DO have some advantages, though "tight" is still not guaranteed. Edited March 28, 2016 by John Albright Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyrc Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Sounds to me like you may want to go with a pair (or 4 ) 18's.. ...and there goes the neighborhood Porting the cabinet will probably remove too much volume to make any improvement in sound and without having access to T/S parameters outcome would a guess at best. Yeah, have decided against a port. Likely a waste of time and material. Let us know how it sounds and share some pics along the way. Will be interesting to follow. Absolutely, update next Saturday Since you already have the idea stuck in your head to remove the passive with a blank, why not. No damage done, let us know what you think. Yup, will cut a blank this week. Results to follow. A sealed RSW-15? I have a good feeling about this. My house/listening room is very small. I am hoping to achieve the awesome punch the RSW is capable of while at the same time eliminating the window rattling super low grunts. I know this sounds crazy! Just a little bit of medicine and I will be OK Matt ♪ ♫ ♪ Windows can be prevented from rattling. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyrc Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 (edited) Maybe I'm crazy, but isn't that sub facing the wrong way already? Did not know there was a "right" and "wrong" way to face the sub. Klipsch says to face the powered driver toward the wall, in a corner if at all possible ... probably loads it?. Edited March 28, 2016 by garyrc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 You are asking questions that bass box or Win ISD can better answer based on science. No T/S specs. Klipsch keeps all the real spec's in a lock box in the Arctic circle in an underground bunker . 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twk123 Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 If being to close to the wall is the problem, it will not change. 2-3 ft. away from the wall is ideal. LOL - that would put it in the middle of my living room. Now you see my predicament? Sealed, you will lose low frequency. I will guess you will raise the lower number from 19Hz to 30Hz. I am guessing...... Oh boy, that is exactly what I am trying to eliminate. Those extremely low, wall shaking frequencies. This just may prove to be a worthwhile trial. You could try one of these to filter out anything below 20 hz. They make 30 hz ones as well: http://www.parts-express.com/harrison-labs-fmod-inline-crossover-pair-20-hz-high-pass-rca--266-246 http://www.parts-express.com/harrison-labs-fmod-inline-crossover-pair-30-hz-high-pass-rca--266-248 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 If being to close to the wall is the problem, it will not change. 2-3 ft. away from the wall is ideal. LOL - that would put it in the middle of my living room. Now you see my predicament? Sealed, you will lose low frequency. I will guess you will raise the lower number from 19Hz to 30Hz. I am guessing...... Oh boy, that is exactly what I am trying to eliminate. Those extremely low, wall shaking frequencies. This just may prove to be a worthwhile trial. You could try one of these to filter out anything below 20 hz. They make 30 hz ones as well: http://www.parts-express.com/harrison-labs-fmod-inline-crossover-pair-20-hz-high-pass-rca--266-246 http://www.parts-express.com/harrison-labs-fmod-inline-crossover-pair-30-hz-high-pass-rca--266-248 Probably just a 8uF cap on the + and a 1KOhm resistor across the +/-. -3db at 20Hz, -6db at 10Hz. Not really much blockage there. What about a miniDSP? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 i'm pretty sure the manual for the RSW-15 says 4" from the back wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 how do you design a passive 20 or 30 HZ in line filter without knowing the source impedance and load impedance? Just assume the source is zero and the load is infinite? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MookieStl Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Matt!!! You there? Did you neuter the passive and try the blank this weekend like you planned? What were the results? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJkizak Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 My RSW-12 says 6 inches from the wall. JJK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthews Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 Matt!!! You there? Did you neuter the passive and try the blank this weekend like you planned? What were the results? Hey Mookie, I did not get the chance to "neuter" the sub yet. Other responsibilities postponed the operation this past weekend. Plan on taking the passive to work with me Wednesday to make the blank. Going to bring a little fiberglass home as well. Should have it all back together Friday evening. Stay tuned for updates 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjptkd Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 i'm pretty sure the manual for the RSW-15 says 4" from the back wall. Manual: http://images.klipsch.com/RSWSubManualEnglish_635042116596670000.pdf It says 4-6 inches minimum but to experiment to find the best position. I have many times and found about 10-12 inches works best in my room. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthews Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 Inside the RSW Matt ♪ ♫ ♪ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MookieStl Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 You aren't really going to try that are you??! Just giving you a hard time, hope it works out for you. You had gone a couple weeks without a project so you were over due. Cant just sit there and wait for your mono blocks can you? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthews Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 You aren't really going to try that are you??! Uh? yes. Yes Sir, I am Just giving you a hard time, hope it works out for you. You had gone a couple weeks without a project so you were over due I really think it is going to work out well. Get that passive off the wall and tighten it up a bit. If not, no harm done and just put it back to stock. Cant just sit there and wait for your mono blocks can you? Chomping at the bit, Mookie. Mid May... Going to be incredible. Stay tuned my friend 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 How are you going to sealed the fiber glass piece in the existing passive radiator spot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthews Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 How are you going to sealed the fiber glass piece in the existing passive radiator spot? Plywood blank plate to replace the passive and seal it up. A little fiberglass insulation for the cab interior (or not). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Stuff about 1/3 of the cabinet when running sealed mode. More stuffing will not dramatically change things. This should give you an ideal of if you are on the right track. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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