mark1101 Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 Every set of networks I either built or rebuilt I removed the Zeners and fuses. Never broke a Klipsch speaker in my life. Those were back in the 70s when people used big power amps, didn't understand, and blew tweeters. Remove them them and listen to music. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 what Neil said, really. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Islander Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 On 12/12/2020 at 4:14 AM, Alexander said: @henry4841the end game will be replacing the OEM k77s with something like Crites tweeters. Just want to do things one step at a time. Had learn that the hard way years back in drag racing days. When I first got my La Scalas, years ago, I checked the K-77s and found that there was a 2-3 dB discrepancy in volume between them, so I ordered a pair of Bob's CT-125 tweeters and Sonicap capacitors. You're right, change one thing at a time, or you won't know which did what. When the CT125s arrived, I tested and found them to be within 1dB of each other, which I suspect is better for stereo imaging. After installing them, I noticed the immediate improvements in clarity and high frequency response. That noted, I replaced the caps three days later, and they helped noticeably as well. Twelve years later, the tweeters and capacitors still sound great, although the speakers are now in Surround position, having been replaced by La Scala IIs in main Left and Right position. BTW, the new CT120 tweeters are said to sound even better than the CT125s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 I changed my type AA back to type A no diodes. Never have any problems and I crank them all the time. I didnt know they cost that much but I would not replace them if they were a dollar a piece....lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 Solid State Manufacturing - 1N3996 - 10 Watt Zener Diode DO-4 - Allied Electronics & Automation here ya go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 I got some if you want them for free just pay shipping. Came out of my Type AA they dont wear out. The prices they want for them are crazy. Call me 816-769-9663 if you want them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter P. Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 On 12/12/2020 at 8:26 AM, jimjimbo said: I think Peter P. was just kidding..... You mean the emoji after my statement wasn't visible?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henry4841 Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 54 minutes ago, ricktate said: Solid State Manufacturing - 1N3996 - 10 Watt Zener Diode DO-4 - Allied Electronics & Automation here ya go Rick you have to buy 25 to get that price. Mouser has some 10 watt ones but they are very pricey. https://www.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Discrete-Semiconductors/Diodes-Rectifiers/Zener-Diodes/_/N-ax1mh?P=1yw7zctZ1z0z5fm&Ns=Pricing|0 Personally I think 10 watts is way overkill for a tweeter. Most listen with an average 1 watt or less with Klipsch speakers with some more on peaks. A 10 watt zener means a steady 10 watts not a peak. My original AL crossovers did not have the diodes and from what I have read most all AL's did. Must have been out of diodes when my crossovers were built or they were added after some warranty claims of blown tweeters. I have never blown a tweeter myself without the diodes. My kids did listening to music when they were outside the house. You will hurt your ears before you blow a 5 watt tweeter in your speaker sitting down in your room listening to music. Under normal circumstances you will not need the zeners or fuses even with the delicate old tweeter. I would not spend close to $100 for zeners but wait to if and when a tweeter blew and just put that money towards some Crites tweeters that are a perfect fit for the speaker with a much higher wattage rating. LaScala speakers were made for professional use using AA crossovers without diodes in loud settings. I am sure the diodes were added to prevent warranty claims. Must have not cost that much in quantity back then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 Yea I just saw that ,,then tried to delete the post...couldn't. I have some if he needs them though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Islander Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 51 minutes ago, henry4841 said: LaScala speakers were made for professional use using AA crossovers without diodes in loud settings. I am sure the diodes were added to prevent warranty claims. Must have not cost that much in quantity back then. Actually, the A crossover (the one without the Zener diode) came before the AA. I understand that there were tweeters blowing with the A crossover, so the AA crossover was then introduced. I don’t think they sound much different, if at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 16 minutes ago, Islander said: I don’t think they sound much different, if at all. Yes they do, to me. The AA is smoother and less bright, again, to me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henry4841 Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 2 hours ago, Islander said: Actually, the A crossover (the one without the Zener diode) came before the AA. I understand that there were tweeters blowing with the A crossover, so the AA crossover was then introduced. I don’t think they sound much different, if at all. The only significate difference between A and AA was a steeper slope for the tweeter, 3rd order instead of 1st order on the AA. Should provide plenty of protection if speakers are not abused without the need for diodes. The AA's are what I am using now in my LaScala's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 Comparing the two attached schematics suggests to this non-expert that there are differences other than Zener diodes. Whether a difference can be perceived between Type A and Type AA is not the same as whether a difference can be perceived between Type AA with Zeners and Type AA without Zeners. IMO, the presence or absence of Zeners is not perceptible. Therefore, if unnecessary, remove them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Islander Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 It looks like you guys can take it from here. I just know that As have no Zeners and AAs do have them. My 1974 La Scalas came with AA crossovers, complete with Zener diodes, and that’s all I’m actually familiar with. I recapped them with Sonicaps a few months after I got them, and they’ve run happily ever since. They’re now my surround speakers. Some years later, I got La Scala IIs, which immediately became JubScala IIs, and they’re the main Left and Right speakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 The power rating is the diode power tolerance. They limit voltage to 5.1, so (5.1 x 5.1)/8 = 3.25 watts to the tweeter. Good for K-77s. I used a bulb and resistor as an L-pad for -1dB and tweeter protection. The hotter the filament, the higher the resistance. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mboxler Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 On 12/10/2020 at 9:36 AM, Alexander said: Was looking to build a pair of AA's from scratch and looking into the tweeter protection of the (for now) OEM k77's. Checking with Crites for zener diodes and found they cost $100 for the set. Being that this price is way out of the price range to work with what have some of you used as an alternative? The OEM tweeters will be replaced early on so just can not justify the money spent. Thinking of polytechnics but what value would be used if they are an option? Perhaps a little off topic, but... As I understand it, Klipsch went from the AA tweeter filter to the AK tweeter filter (elliptical) to further protect the K-77. It's much steeper slope eliminated the need for the zener diode. Was this a cost saving modification? Also, I hardly ever see discussions about this high pass elliptic filter. Is it considered poor sounding? Thanks, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexander Posted December 22, 2020 Author Share Posted December 22, 2020 DizRotus, yes I have SS amps that are all 100wpc minimum - but there is no chance of ever pushing anything close to the proverbial 11 o'clock dial position. And thank you for the offers for diodes gents but I think we will go without like many of you suggested. If we do anything we would put a 1.25a fuse in line. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 Didn't PWK do a Dope from Hope on this. I think the main issue was turn on/off transients from the older solid state amps. Fuses aren't fast enough for that, and neither are polyswitches. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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