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Tarheel

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The bed took 3 bags of shower pan bed mortar topped off the next day with a bag and a half of self leveling mortar.  That stuff is crazy.  You can trowel it down, take your tools outside to clean them and it's hard by the time you get back in the house.  you can feel the heat coming off it as it cures.

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We did almost 100 sq ft yesterday.  before he left today we finished up the room with the commode.  I got about 9 more pieces down and am done for today.  I'll finish up a little at a time mostly by doing some cutting in the evenings and next weekend trying to possibly finish all the floors.

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We did almost 100 sq ft yesterday. before he left today we finished up the room with the commode. I got about 9 more pieces down and am done for today. I'll finish up a little at a time mostly by doing some cutting in the evenings and next weekend trying to possibly finish all the floors.

 

That's going to look great when it's done, very nice, and big, I bet the wife is happy.

 

They have been wanting me to tear out the old fiberglass shower for years and do just what you did. I told them I don't know how to do that kind of shower which has got me out of it so far. You made it look easy but I am still going to try and get out of it. I'm chicken :unsure:

 

How do you know how high to put the drain considering how much bed mortar and self leveling needed ?

 

looking good

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How do you know how high to put the drain considering how much bed mortar and self leveling needed ?

 

I used a kit that I purchased from a tile shop.  It gives you your slope and drain height, I thought it worked pretty good, Elden if I can do it you can.  I will say I had quite a bit of help from a good friend with the tile work, one thing I didn't do is pick a good tile and use bull noses for the edging so you can see the edge of the porcelain.  My buddy told me I could get some porcelain paint and paint the edge.  But its in the basement and I don't mind it that much.  

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How do you know how high to put the drain considering how much bed mortar and self leveling needed ?

 

It's really not too bad.  The drain is in 3 pieces.  The first piece goes level with the concrete (your floor) as you are going to lay the flexible pvc on the floor.  The next flange bolts on to the bottom flange and sandwiches the pvc pan.  The finished drain screws into the second flange.  I normally run it all the way down.  The lower it is the less floor you'll need to pour.  From the drain, mark the walls to where you have between 1/8 to 1/4" slope to the drain.  After you mark the walls, you just need to connect your marks with masking tape and float accordingly from the drain to the walls.  Always tape the drain opening to keep concrete out.  Cut the excess tape off so it doesn't lap over and down the sides.  If you don't cut it, you'll have a border of tape between the concrete and the drain.

 

Use as much of the cheaper mud bed as you can.  Bring it up to about 1/2 inch or so from your finished floor as the self leveling mortar is about $35.00 for a 40 lb bag.  The bed mud is about $16.00 for 50 lbs.

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Morning gang

Up enjoying the 72 degree weather.

26 fires as of late.

Sending the wife off to Reno to look at housing and eliminate the the no/go's.

Bench electronics for the day, goodies from the bay have arrived.

CeC's project is looking mighty fine, remindes me iv a few of my own around here.

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Have a great day today. Sadly, my music list will be short. Today is our first day of school for teachers. I hope all of your kids/ grand kids have a best school year. At least I did get up early enough to enjoy an Aging Room Bin No 1 with my coffee.

SSH

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