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Lets see YOUR Home Theater:


Pako

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The Tuba I picked up from Gigbyt.

Im running a bit underpowered at this point (125 watts) but Im in search of a dedicated amp for it. It has a smooth sounding bass compared to my A5's. It's hard to describe but it justnot as violent at the A5's. I think I'm really gonna like it but I need to to get full power to it and decide if it's gonna be loud enough in the 1 space I can actually place it. If not I have a couple options to move it to a friends house or to my bedroom! The cool part is that it's so big it could be used a a large night stand (our bed is kinda high). A nice wood stain and it'll look great. I don't doubt that it can attain some major DB levels as it was pretty loud just in the center of my room. It weird though for music. Doesn't seem to put out even average db's for music. My A5's destroy it (even just 1 A5) during music. HT is a different story.

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Hey there Jason..........yeah, you need to drive that thing ! I dug up some photos from my own DIY sub. Most of the fellows building these 'hot water heater' type subs use a specific driver and a ported inclosure.

I decided to be different. Tried a SEALED 25" Sono tube, and turned to the automotive subwoofer line of drivers. This is a Kicker SQUARE driver with more radiating surface then an 18" round driver. It can stand up to a 6 cu. ft. sealed enclosure (did the math and came up with a 26" long tube to equal that space).

I am running this with a little Carver m400 in STEREO (speaker has both left and right voice coils) and 416 watts is NOT enough for a driver that needs 800 to 1400 watts. Just don't have anything like that around here. Also using a professional active subwoofer filter and my lowpass cutoff for this one is 18Hz. Yeah, is a real subwoofer. Only my Velodyne F1500r can get in this range, but no where near the output.

DO, let us know when you get a big amp on that one, and also what frequency you are seting its upper limit at..

In this photo (from an old theater where I used to live) the finished project... I got a shot of the bottom baffle coming up next..

......Gary

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Yes, its a square driver. Its really more of an 'air pump' and has an excursion of nearly 2" !

I had a nearby professional wood shop cut my top and bottom baffles, do routing for the speaker hookup panel and cutouts, AND a third one which is the stained wood surface you saw in the previous photo.

In a room measuring 15 x 13 x 7', a signal generator set to 14Hz. with only that little m400, I got 101 DB at the opposite end of the room ! Wonder what it would be if there were 1000watts at that frequency? Guess I will never know [:)]

....enjoy

PS. DO note the hardware holding that thing down. Stainless Allen head bolts into robust 'T' nuts on the inside.... (click on photo for a closer view)

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Yes, its a square driver. Its really more of an 'air pump' and has an excursion of nearly 2" !

I had a nearby professional wood shop cut my top and bottom baffles, do routing for the speaker hookup panel and cutouts, AND a third one which is the stained wood surface you saw in the previous photo.

In a room measuring 15 x 13 x 7', a signal generator set to 14Hz. with only that little m400, I got 101 DB at the opposite end of the room ! Wonder what it would be if there were 1000watts at that frequency? Guess I will never know Smile

....enjoy

PS. DO note the hardware holding that thing down. Stainless Allen head bolts into robust 'T' nuts on the inside.... (click on photo for a closer view)

Gary, This is a really nice looking unit.... I like the look and I'm sure the sound is excellent... Enjoy..
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Ok Jason....... What are your mains set at ? If they are not full range, then your High Pass setting should be near to there low limit, and I would let the sub take if from there. As always for me, the lower the sub can START at, the better. If your mains are fine at 80Hz cut off, then I would not go any higher with the HP to them...

Keep me informed...

BTW, in my theater, I am running my mains down to 40Hz with the HP filter (they are towers with 8" drivers and rated to 32 Hz), and the Velodyne is set to its LOWEST LP setting of 40 Hz. where it takes over. Has always worked out nicely here at least... Let the mains give the attack and punch, and the sub takes over the rest of the subsonic impact like it is supposed to [;)]

.........Gary

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Ok Jason.............those settings sound pretty good to me. Keep us informed after you get more time to play around with the new subwoofer... (whats in that box for a driver?)

Have a good one [;)]

............Gary

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Jason,

I can't recommend this amplifier enough. I love it with my SVS passive sub

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-811&utm_source=googleps

Also, with the sub that close to your seated position, I would make sure to tune it as low as possible on the crossover point (100 Hz would be very localized/directional in my opinion in the position you have it in.) Let the mains take on as much as they comfortably can - your music will also sound better this way.

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_benjamin - nice ben harper art there. Is that just a poster?

Yes and no. It is a poster, for Ben Harper's concert at the Gorge but not just a copied image on paper. It's a limited edition (of 250) 7 color hand-pulled silkscreen print by EMEK that won the 2007 Pollstar Poster of the Year.

I started collecting posters for concerts I go/went to and that led to collecting other cool concert posters I didn't go to as well as artist's art prints. Here's some others.

Tara McPherson

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I was at these 2 shows:

Pearl Jam in DC, can't remember who the artist is, and The Raconteurs in Cincy by Rob Jones

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