EV T35's (HT-3500) were standard. They offered the T350 if you wanted to pay more for it. I think I paid $85 for mine in 1976 or 77. & $105 for the very nice mid driver and horn. The speakerlab with the better drivers sounded better than the Klipschorn's. I have two pair. Both with the T350's with ferrofluid. 

Well, I am interested in the AHB2 because there is a certain relationship to my old British Quad amps. And then this Topping LA90 also comes into play. If I understand it correctly, it's very much about certain outstanding technical values such as the signal-to-noise ratio...or other parameters. The question of this thread is "the absolute best amp" to drive Heritage Klipsch. I would think you can't pin it down to specific technical excellence values. Personally, I would say I have to hear it and it has to reach my heart and gut feeling. When people say that the AHB2 is the amp that Peter Walker could only dream of...well I have amps that Peter designed. I wouldn't naively say that because AHB2 is newer and has better specs it necessarily sounds better when I add everything together I think the core question of the thread is on a deeper level because it's about the match with Klipsch heritage speakers where a good balance and dosage of many parameters is important. The heritage speakers are in some ways "easy" to feed and in other ways "difficult" to feed. In the end, personal taste is the most important thing. I wouldn't say that an amp suddenly appears that puts everything else in the shade. If it does, wonderful, I should be allowed to hear it. But all too often in the last 60 years we've seen a "one trick dog" being hyped in marketing. And then, a little later, the next one is brought in. My conclusion: no aversion to innovation, but never throw the baby out with the bathwater when it comes to existing good-sounding amps. I would love to hear an AHB2 but I would also love to hear a Pass first watt. In the meantime, I'm very happy with my old Quad 606, 306 and also with the MC275.   To sum up, I'm open to new things but I'm very happy with what I have. If something new makes everything a little better then the question remains, is it a new listening experience or a marginal feature that I quickly get used to and what is assimilated by my hearing quickly. Then it's not worth it. I'll go further and it gets a bit philosophical. If the new stuff is actually better, ok, my 40 year old alter ego might aspire to that. The 65-year-old Heinz is perhaps happy with what he has and knows because the time of hunting is over. That's not meant to sound boring and depressing, but relaxed and sitting in the saddle.

How did you verify that is where the problem is?   Help us eliminate possible causes by detailing your troubleshooting steps and telling us what you've already tried to remedy the problem.

The USA tour was in 1974  However the album was released in 1975 

Price drop, 500 for the jbl 2360's with drivers. 800 for the cells with drivers.  La scalas are also now for sale,  $2600 with bill fitz tuba ht subwoofer.

ew..eww..the Thomann has noise gating...ew..eww. Wonder why the Peavey don't?

Cool---good find @gigantic looks comparably priced to the Peavey and has FIR to boot. Peavey must be a re brand of their non FIR unit or they both get'em from some manufacturer in China. If the app is identical there is some relationship going on. How do you like it? Is it quiet at no signal? Or should I be asking these questions over at AK?

That software UI is identical to the Thomann T.Racks FIR DSP-408 that I've been using for about 4 months. Looking a the link, it seems to be the same as the T.Racks DSP-408 with is the next step down in price. I'm enamored with the FIR version, even if I'm not using the FIR filter capacity of it. I've been using it with Chris Askew's Zeroth Order PEQ filter crossover scheme and it's been nothing short of amazing. The only gripe with my unit is that it comes with a non-thermocoupled cooling fan- it's always on. I ultimately removed the fan- it doesn't get hot in casual home use. the interface is easy to use and intuitive. I wish they had a Mac version, but I just boot one laptop into windows to change the settings and use another to run REW sweeps.

Large for front speakers and "Plus" for subwoofer according to the manual.   Note • If you select SMALL for the front speakers, the subwoofer will automatically be fixed to YES. Also, the center, surround can’t be set to LARGE if the front speakers are set to SMALL. In this case, all bass frequencies are sent to the subwoofer. • If you have a subwoofer and like lots of bass, it may seem logical to select LARGE for your front speakers and PLUS for the subwoofer. This may not, however, yield the best bass results. Depending on the speaker placement of your room you may actually experience a decrease in the amount of bass due to low frequency cancellations. In this case, try changing the position or direction of speakers. If you can’t get good results, listen to the bass response with it set to PLUS and YES or the front speakers set to LARGE and SMALL alternatively and let your ears judge which sounds best. If you’re having problems, the easiest option is to route all the bass sounds to the subwoofer by selecting SMALL for the front speakers.

Who would have thought when you were teenagers, perhaps enamored with Panasonic Thrusters or Radio Shack Mach 1's.....  that later in life you'd be enamored with not one, but multiple actives.   Well done!