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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/02/14 in all areas

  1. Caveat: for the sake of brevity, google is your friend. Feel free to ask specific questions, but I'm trying to avoid being unnecessarily verbose. All of my music is stored on a homebrew NAS called unRAID. Because it's linux based, it's very flexible and very customizable. Unraid 5.x and higher supports plugins, with a relatively active plugin community. So the music is stored on a NAS. On that NAS, I have the following plugins installed: > Beets Music (for cataloging and automatic tagging against the MusicBrainz database) > SNAP for mounting drives outside of the NAS array. This allows me mount a NTFS drive with movies on it. > Serviio Media Center for DLNA streaming. This allows me to send music and movies to my Oppo BDP-93. > Subsonic for music streaming to web browsers, iphones, ipads, and android devices. Enables on the fly transcoding of my FLAC library to mp3 in any bitrate I wish to specify. So I can crunch down tight for streaming over LTE to my phone while in the car. Or 320kpbs for playing in my web browser at work. My daughter has an old iphone attached to a music dock in her room and accesses the library over wifi at home. Oh and I've connected my iPad/iPhone to my KMC-3 at parties for people to browse through and play. Files can be cached locally for offline play and I can give friends their own access to the web portal in order to sample music I suggest. > OpenSSH for remote access. The file system shares data via SMB, NFS, AFP, etc. For 2-channel listening my laptop serves as a transport for 16/44.1, 24/96, and 24/192 FLAC files. I have JRiver Media Center running on my MacBook Pro and connected to the NAS via SMB. Audio is played through an JDS Labs ODAC directly into my amplifier. Anything over 24/96 is downsampled, 24/96 and below is left alone. For control I have JRemote which allows me to browse the library with pretty album art, create playlists, ffwd/rwd through tracks, and digital volume control. So there you have it. Access to all 1,977 of my albums as long as I have a network connection.
    2 points
  2. Well, I've got a brisket going along with roasting some poblano peppers. I'm gonna be eating good later! Some of you may remember that I bought a Traeger Pellet Grill. Well my dad had to have it so I picked up this USA made Englander. http://englanderstoves.com/pelletgrills.html
    2 points
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  5. This is the second recommendation in this thread for the VTA ST-120. Intriguing. Absolutely love my Latino ST-120!
    2 points
  6. Worth $750 More worther at $500
    1 point
  7. After getting a good deal on a Yamaha A3020 receiver, I decided it was time to upgrade from my KSF 8.5s and KSF-C5 speakers, as well as my KSW-150 sub. I decided to go used for the best bang for my buck, so I started looking for either KLF-20s or 30s, RF-83s, or RF-7s for mains. I ended up picking up some used RF-7IIs that were a little beat up (but at a great price) thanks to a post from joesportster in the Alerts forum. I also bought a SVS PB12-NSD shortly before purchasing the RF-7IIs. Now I need a matching RC-64II center, and I from what I've been reading and following I think may have to go ahead and buy a new one if I want one anytime soon (a used cherry seems pretty rare). I'm also questioning the sub purchase for two reasons. Purchasing a new center is pushing me above what I was originally hoping to spend on mains and the center, and I'm also wondering how good of a match it is with the RF-7IIs (I guess I already have the upgrade bug lol). So I'm leaning towards returning the sub (still in the window) and putting that money towards a center, and saving up for a future sub purchase. Also, with B-stock cherry, would it always going to be darker, or is there a chance it would be a closer match with mine since they are not new? I assume if I get A stock the center may not match initially but will eventually? Thanks. Matt And for the pics, still a lot of clean-up/setup to do, I just moved in November and still getting everything together.
    1 point
  8. I recently purchased a pair of RT-10D's. I initially thought that the dual RT-10D's would have more output than the single RSW-15 but so far in my initial testings, although the RT-10D's provide plenty of smooth, low end, they don't seem to have as much slam or dig as deep as the RSW-15. These are not conclusive findings as I need to dial the subs in a bit more to make sure I'm doing a fair comparison. I will be posting my findings in this Dual RT-10D vs RSW-15 Comparison Thread hopefully this weekend when I have some time to spend in the HT. I keep forgetting we have a Subwoofers section so I thought I would share some pics for everyone.
    1 point
  9. They really don't look any different now than a decade ago. Been no issues with them whatsoever. They'll still handle the full power of my 2205 without breaking a sweat but I rarely push them that hard
    1 point
  10. I think they originally sold for $2300+!?! I'd say somewhere between $500 and $900 for a used RT-12d. $500 for one that's beat up some and $900 for A stock, with box, original owner, etc... I have no idea on the RT-10d.
    1 point
  11. RT-10D's are selling between $450 - $600. If I had to guess, an RT-10D might sell between $650 - $800?
    1 point
  12. I think this is interesting and telling of efficiency differences between the reference and heritage line. The next biggest difference would probably be to distance from the speaker, then due to the room. It's crazy though how the RF-7 levels range from -3.5 to -8. For my LS II's Audyssey set them to the lowest setting. I had to use 12dB of padding between the preamp and amp to get them close to -3.5dB. Tkdamerica, ...With that said, Audyssey is going to set your speaker's distances and volumes based on how the microphone reads them in your room. Remember Audyssey sets the volumes/delays based on when the sound arrives at the microphone. Take two rooms of the exact same size and one is heavily damped and the other is hard and "live", Audyssey readings can differ almost like night and day. Bill Hey Bill, I remember this post and wanted to get back to it because even though all of our rooms are all different, I was curious what numbers people were coming up with...The reason I think this is interesting is because so many things in the Hobby of Home Theater is subjective, the volume in which we listen shouldn't be. Of course there are things that can skew the readings, but I am under the impression that we should have similar SPL readings on a meter that correlate to the Main Volume on Audyssey calibrated systems.
    1 point
  13. Dual RT-12d's have a lot of accurate output. Unless your comparing them to a DIY system with 4x18" that go down to 10hz and lots of wattage, I'd think anyone would be very happy with them. I don't know that many into audio, but the two I do know I showed them to and they were very impressed. The problem is they are very rare. I've been trying to get two more of them and can't find any. If you see any, I'd be interested in buying them They're flat down to ~18 Hz thanks to Audyssey XT32. I don't even have them in the corner and they're borderline insane for my room. If you corner load them, I have no doubt they'd put out the 120dB as spec'd by Klipsch.
    1 point
  14. Dunno, never heard one. My guess is more bass and it would dig a little deeper
    1 point
  15. Here's what I did with some RS-7's It's before the forum change and the pics are huge when you click on them. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/145553-diy-surround-mounts/ Here's the post also on AVS that shows up better. http://www.avsforum.com/t/680426/klipsch-owner-thread/25320#post_23651742
    1 point
  16. It'l probably get locked in the direction we're going but till then....................................
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  18. Why yes, I do believe it's a LaScala! Finally getting around to breaking some drywall in the basement. Here's a before and current
    1 point
  19. I have RS 35's up near the ceiling and just hang them by the keyhole. They don't have to be angled down although they can. These are not direct radiator speakers like a tower or booshelf speakers. They work well being near boundries and are wide dispersion style speakers.
    1 point
  20. Build a wedge mounting block like Wake Junkie did for Youthman. Send Wake or Youthman a PM. Use this link and page down a ways to see photo. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1076751/stevens-home-theater-the-fun-begins/450 Bill
    1 point
  21. Are you crafty, someone once used hinges, and chain to hold them up at the right angel. There was a thread on it somewhere around here. As small as those are it shouldn't take much. So basically the hinge will mount to the bottom of the speaker and to the wall, then the chains would mount to the top the speaker and to the wall. Now you can adjust it.
    1 point
  22. Mike, You need to use either the phono input on your avr, or if it doesn't have one you need to get a phono pre-amp. Hope it works out.
    1 point
  23. Brings back memories of the Man Show and the juggy dancers.
    1 point
  24. I just realized why they have a "I like this" tab, I looked at this and immediately thought, "I like this..."
    1 point
  25. i feel like i should be buying flowers. or planting flowers. or sniffing flowers. or doing something with flowers and my general face region.
    1 point
  26. If you're looking for boobage in the dictionary, you're in the wrong place.
    1 point
  27. Exposure time is important in night photography In these shots I tried to get emphasis on the glass and the inner light assisting
    1 point
  28. My wife looked at the sub and says "You've got a real problem". and I said, "look, I don't complain about your shoes..." that was the end of that story. lol.
    1 point
  29. This thread is like following one of your kids through surgery! I hope they turn out ok! It's fascinating!
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  31. Drive from Memphis to Vicksburg on Highway 61, this time of year, & you'll begin to understand the Blues.
    1 point
  32. I owned 4 Khorns for 30+ years in different rooms, Lots of LaScalas, Cornwalls, Heresys, Fortes, Chorus I, Chorus II, RF's, B2, B3, etc. direct radiator subs, horn subs. I spent a LOT of time in the Palladium room at Klipsch Headquarters listening to lots of favorite music. I have made a few trips to Hope and spent time in the lab/test room AND PWK's home as his guest in 1985. I worked on a Jubilee Drone engineering project for a Pro Klipsch Dealer (Two K-31, Eminence, and 3 passives in the horn, etc., lots of measurements and listening, but I digress.................. The Palladiums were designed to compete with the B&W 802 type of speakers at $20,000 a pair. They are gorgeous and are THE best sounding bass reflex speaker I have ever heard. They are absolutely beautiful and if you have the cash, they are a showcase speaker that anyone should be proud of, no question. they are handmade in Hope, Arkansas, just like the Heritage speakers. They have custom drivers and horns that are unavailable anywhere else but Klipsch. They use all of the latest technologies and have a very refined balancing network. I have spent time with the engineer that designed it. That being said, I still think that the two best bass sections that Klipsch makes are the MWM and the Jubilee, period. Why? Because they are horns and both outperform the Khorn bass section. But they need active Xover networks to sound their best. After having horn subs, I'm not convinced that ALL speakers need subs to operate below the 40-60 Hz. range to minimize distortion and extend the bandwidth down to match the capabilities of the ruler flat response to 4 hz. from digital media we have had for over 30 years. The idea of a high pass filter at 30 hz. for energy robbing, high distortion turntable rumble on himalayan recycled production vinyl from crappy US record plants has been gone for a long time. Klipsch's best horn is the K402, which took me 4 years to find on the used market. I have also owned all the EV and JBL offerings with 2" throats. Yes, I have heard the K510 and it's amazing for it's size. I have even heard the PWK's own single Jubilee at his widow's home (not a very good test), which had an 800 Hz. custom horn on it. I was even at the CES show in 1999 and saw the Jube with the Mahogany horn on top, of which, there are only two in the world. Conclusion? If space and looks are not a problem, then the very best Klipsch has to offer is the KPT-MCM-II 4-way in various configurations, (look up the Pro Cinema section on Klipsch.com). The next best is the 3-way KPT-Jubilee/535-B (My speakers are basically a home made hybrid of those two) Both are available thought the Pro dealers, and both need Active Xovers AND Subwoofers, which now Klipsch makes a horn loaded Sub that weights 300 lbs. Both of these options sound better AND are CHEAPER than the Palladiums. You pay a lot of moolah for the looks, but it's still cheaper than a lot of, so called, "high end" speakers that cost tens of thousands of dollars more. To trump a Palladium's 3rd position, one could keep the Khorn's bass unit, PEQ it up a bit, and use the KPT-Jubilee/535 B's treble section. But it would not be a "Klipschorn" anymore although it would still be "pure Klipsch." So there you have it, all top 4 shoices, all need subs to get to 20 hz and below. All Klipsch speakers are a bargain. New or used.
    1 point
  33. Well that sure helps with the decision. Yea, I think I made a safe bet. High maintenance = plastic surgery gone bad.
    1 point
  34. Actually the Chinese and Russian are pretty good at making tube gear. When the transitor age came in, most developed countries abandon tubes. China and Russia kept tubes in some of their military equipment in case of a nuclear war, their equipment would still function and not be knocked out by the EM pluse. Some of the gear from China can be purchased from a dealer in Canada. This way warranty issues are not a problem and shipping is cheaper. For me, I did not know if I would like tube gear and did not care to spend a lot of money. I am confident that I can resale the amp for slightly more than I paid for it. The Music Angel and Yaqin amps are beautiful and to my ears, excellent SQ. I am easy to please.
    1 point
  35. Class A listening in China is a big deal, so much so their store fronts out numbers ours three to one. http://www.china-hifi-audio.com/en
    1 point
  36. Maybe that's why once I moved from a 10" Velodyne to a 15" Velodyne, I never went back to a 10" or 12" sub.
    1 point
  37. Few things take the place of a large cone with good displacement.
    1 point
  38. Now it's time to crap all over this thread. I found a few lps at a thrift that has never paid off for me before. So far they have played as clean as they looked. Chicago---some kind of hits compilation with the band members in a goofy pose with paint on the cover. Moody Blues---To Our Childrens Childrens Children. Not played yet is a Toscanini effort of Dvorak New World Symphony and Firesign Theater Waiting For the Electrician or Someone Like Him. 2 bucks a piece, so they better be good.
    1 point
  39. "Break-in" isn't a very popular idea around here. I didn't used to believe in it either until I heard it happen while I was sitting in front of the speakers. I used to listen with two RC-7s (I twirled the horns 90 degrees and flipped the speakers). It was enough of a change that at first I thought something was going on with the preamp or amp. People who work with capacitors, either in design or the manufacturing of them, will tell you that it's both audible and measurable. I managed to get Richard Marsh on the phone once, who told me, "...anything a capacitor is going to do, it's done doing in 10 to 20 hours". Jeff Glowacki of Soniccraft, who designed the Sonicap, told me that the audible performance of a capacitor shouldn't be evaluated for at least a month. This is from people involved in actual process and development. I used Northcreek's cascading concept at the primary position. A 2uF Sonicap, 1uF ClarityCap (ESA), and a .01uF Dayton film and foil. Both of the 1.5uF tweeter caps are ClarityCap ESA Series. I redid any original soldering that looked suspect. There was an installation issue. We started off with no midrange. Since it involved both loudspeakers, I had a real hard time believing it was crossover related. I put a call into Bob, who said, "Allow me to give you some critical information". Anyone considering doing this needs to be aware that there are two sets of tabs on the midrange driver, a pair on each side. Positive is on one side, negative on the other. If you reconnect both wires on the same side, you're creating a short, and the driver won't play. Easy mistake to make when you're working mostly by feel without much light. Bob says this happens so often that he gets a call about once a week about it.
    1 point
  40. Magnepans are excellent speakers, however my Klipsch speakers, in my HT, seem to be much clearer than any magnepans I've ever heard....
    1 point
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