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Cloudy here this morning but should clear up by noon. Back from breakfast. Ate at the bar with the regulars. Two eggs over medium, 3 slices of bacon, potatoes. Half way through the cook/owner puts a plate in front of me with two more strips of bacon. He said my slices were a little puny Jake fed and walked. LF has her niece (29) and niece's friend (28) staying with her for the weekend. Says they are lookers but I haven't seen then Hope everyone has a fun weekend and as always.... Cheers Ladies and Gents

Good Sat Morning Gang, (Had to check the day) Farm run was good yesterday, 100Amp panel is live and will slam some outlets/welder wiring next week. Spent all last night and to the wee hours of this morning shopping Rc goodies and working on "Crows Eyes" servo mechanics. Ah yes, the ole Dremmel is about to get a workout, been awile since iv manned a workdesk. Plumbing sucks, i do what needs to be done, but man if there is one trade i dont care to do it's plumbing.

Good morning everyone. Lots of plumbing talk..... We have three full baths and happily, the house was build with the Temptrols in each one, knock on sheet rock, there has been no problems with them since the home was built in1979 (0; Now, the toilets are another matter and subject all together, right guys and gals ? I'm sure we've all been there ((((0 Time to get that coffee started, breakfast made, be about the day ... More later my friends.. .......Gary

Ya'll be easy now on that plumbing...might last forever in time... Good job, in my somewhat limited opinion. Try to do what I can, with the tools I got. Saying is, well hell sh%$ you know, I do the best job with the tools I got. People were amazed at my ability to do things without proper tools on hand, all of their life. Mine too! Keep it between the lines...enjoy every word, No offense intended... Weekend job There is another version coming soon, abbreviated... Tools necessary at times.

Dam all out of coffee filters, who the heck is in charge of the inventory around here. Ah plumbing, besides Mondays one of my favorite things in life. I'll tell you this, the first time I installed a new toilet flange. I didn't pay attention to the orientation of the bolt holes, needless to say I had to chisel it out and install a new one. Fun, fun stuff. As for today, well breakfast is still in order ( I had to vent about the coffee filters). Then a baseball game at 10, maybe some yard work or trailer rewiring. At 2 brakes on the aunts care, a quick pad and rotor job on a Caviler. Then depending if the weather holds up, maybe some camping. Well got to run, the belly is growing.

What's on the other side of that wall, is it somewhere you can just cut sheetrock out to access, this could make it much easier. I hate plumbing, especially drain connections under sinks or showers/tubs.

Ahhh...yes......plumbing ..... The best approach is to confidently state 'I don't mess with it' as though you just have better things to do. The truth is that I may not have enough homeowners coverage to take care of the !!%## - ups of which I am capable in this area. Usually get a buddy to 'help' while I supervise. Pretty day and I'm heading outside for most of it. Need to hit Best Buy first and pick up a new 'puter first. Will keep you posted. Cheers guys.

Morning gang... Working on making the 2nd cup....for me it's going to be a long weekend. Before we left the shop last night me and the wife was looking at the schedule. I said what's up with the red X on Monday? She said it your birthday and I closed the shop.....man I got a good boss:-) So I got some lawn work planed, gonna cut the grass and suck up some leaves......almost done with the leaves..... Got plans to fire the grill up....man I love the grill... So this plumbing thing......ahhhhhhh.....I don't do plumbing!! I fix cars, make money and pay my plumber buddy....lol lol I don't do most stuff around the house.....I don't like it and if I don't like it I don't do it....plus if I take the money I can make at the shop per hour.....it doesn't make sense for me to fool with the house stuff. Now I do like working in the yard, I find it relaxing riding my tractor cutting my weeds.... Ok guys....wishing all a great weekend.. MKP :-)

Man, just when Carl built up my courage last evening, I'm sitting here enjoying my 2nd cup of Highlander Grogg, reading the days posts, and you got my tail between my legs again. Rainy here so I will shower and encourage wifey to shower so if things don't go well, and least we took our last showers. Probably should fill every bucket we own with water too...just in case. Maybe I should wait until Monday so in case I have to call in a real plumber, it's not at double time weekend rates. Creative procrastination!

This is what you have. you'll have to get on the back nut, not the front.

That's exactly what I use. In fact just picked up another bottle yesterday. I stick with Stihl oils and Kubota oil with my tractor. They are pricier, but they were pricier equipment investments to begin with, so like someone said, no point in saving a few bucks by going with off-brand oil and filters. Sane with marine outboard motors. Chuck, I just re-read this. No I don't use the pre-mix, but do use the Stihl oil at 50:1 which I mix with no ethanol high octane gas. You may need to just rebuild the diverter valve then. No need to shut the water off. Not sure I understand. If I take these out without shutting off the water, won't it spray like a fire hydrant? There are two separate valves, one for hot and one for cold. I think they are just clogged with soot. I am on a private well, so I was going to shut off the breaker to my pump, and close the valve coming from the pressure bladder tank. There is a shut off valve going TO my hat water heater, but not coming out of it, so I was going to close that valve to, to be on the safe side.

Todd...I switched to pre mixed gas in the can (red can) a 50:1 mix and I have not had the weed eater, chain saw, or blower fail to start. The weed eater and blower are Stihl equipment and the chain saw a 20" Poulan. Yep it's pricey but even after long cold winters they fire right up.

No, but I have deep well sockets. Those look in-expensive and maybe I should start an Ace list. I will send you a PM. Thank you!

When you get ready to tackle it, give me a holler. There's a few do's and don'ts that you really don't want to learn the hard way.

The diverter on this set up is built into the tub spout. You'll need to shut the water off to the house and rebuild the 2 valves.

It's a shower/jet tub combo with separate hot & cold handles. I think they are American Standard brand. Wouldn't I have to bust up the tile and durock (or drywall probably) to get to a diverter valve, if there is one? We want to do a full remodel like you are doing, but need to wait until more lettuce grows. For now, just would like to get it usable. Thank you!

To be clear, if this is a shower/tub combo, there will be a center knob (diverter valve). You use it to direct the water to come out either the tub spout or the shower head. It can come apart on the inside and stop water flow from both hot and cold sources. This valve can be repaired or rebuilt without shutting the water off. If it is a stand alone shower and there are only 2 knobs, the water has to be shut off prior to attempting any repairs.

Back to the bathroom. I finally have the pipes inside the wall where they belong. Drain pipe is in. I can't put concrete in till my drain comes in so I may start working on the walls while I'm waiting. I'd like to get my hands on the knucklehead that put this in. The copper lines were kinked below the slab and there wasn't a brace anywhere to be found. The copper pipe has a cover to keep the concrete off the pipe when you pour the slab. They had poured concrete in-between the pipe and cover! Pretty much negates having it there to begin with. The section I put in has been wrapped in tape, then covered in plastic so I should be good.

Everybody say there on the second cup, I don't even get past the news and look here until I'm well past the second cup. I agree you have a good boss. Just in case it doesn't get noticed Happy Birthday cant count on my memory And yes plumbing still sucks

Hey I might be up for a tape swap???

I'll bet if it were a pair of Beats he'd jump on it

Is this a shower/tub combo?

No idea but I've never seen it. You'd need access in a wall if you were going that route, there's also more of a chance for a leak if you have a valve inline as opposed to just a straight piece of copper. If you get in a bind on your project, PM me. I'll give you my number and we can hash it out over the phone. I've had a Whirlpool dehumidifier for well over 10 years and it's still sucking water out of the air. Don't know if they still make them or not but mine's been great.

On cup # 3. Do throttle cables count? Stihl brushwacker update: carb torn down, soaked, cleaned 3rd time. Muffler screen removed & brushed thoroughly. Was optimistic...still running fine WOT, but have to feather the throttle. Took into Stihl dealer yesterday. Tech ran it full throttle for several minutes, removed carb, put back together. He advised running a few tanks of gas through it to see if it will work what ever out of it. So at least I know it wasn't operator/self-mechanic error. He didn't charge me anything, which was really nice. Will probably end up replacing the carb, but will use it for awhile and see if it improves. 2-cycle engines are like boats...they don't like to be stored! Rain moving in this afternoon and tomorrow, so if throttle cables don't count, I may re-install 8 analog audio cables from Oppo to Pioneer Elite AVR for SACD/DVDA, etc...I eliminated them for simplicity when I swapped my old Outlaw pre/pro with the AVR because it has HDMI, and my understanding was it should pass via HDMI. MKP, 232k on my 1998 Honda Accord 4 cylinder. Too bad it sits outside because rust has caused most of my issues, replaced gas tank, oil pan, brake lines, exhaust, etc...What happened to getting a complete exhaust system replaced for $300? The front pipe alone was over $200 and I don't believe it is stainless like the original. Nice job on the bathroom remodel Carl! I have one waiting for you when you are done. Haven't used the shower in our main bath for a year. Water just trickles out. I have the hot and cold faucet handles off and ready to remove the valves, but there are no shut offs for the shower supply lines. Why don't they install shut offs for showers? Should be code in my opinion. Anyway, been procrastinating it in fear that I will screw something up and then not be able to turn the water back on. Now that we are beyond Winter, I will try to get some courage like the cowardly lion and tackle it. Have a fun & productive weekend all!

I work with my wife at our auto shop.... A few years back a customer really pi$$ed my wife off ..long story ....like I had to tell her to leave the office, that's how bad it was.....so the the guy is standing in front of me not saying a word.....So I say...." sir let me tell you how my shop runs.....this is MY shop and I run this shop....but you have just pi$$ed off the president of this company, and the press happens to be my wife. So when we get home tonight I'm going to see if I'm still working on your car this week....if she says NO...then I will call you to get a tow truck for your car"!! All he said was ok .........Well yea the next day I called him to get a tow truck....... MKP :-)

A while back forum member djk gave these instructions for deriving a center channel with a Mcintosh mc2100 amp: PWK had a method of driving a center channel from a two channel amplifer that had output transformers (like your McIntosh MC2100). Hook the Klipschorns to the 4Ω taps for the left and right channels.Hook an 8Ω resistor to the 16Ω tap of the left channel, and another 8Ω resistor on the 16Ω tap of the right channel. Hook the other ends of both these resistors to the wire going to the positive terminal on the Heresy, and the negative terminal of the Heresy to the 'common' terminal (ground) of the McIntosh. Use 25W/8Ω resistors for a 100W~150W McIntosh. This worked great, and thanks to djk. My question now is what resistors would be used to do this with a 50W Mcintosh MC250? Tim

I'll do that.. Thank you!

I have the money to go 4 to 7k for a pair of fronts. If this was a local deal i would make a good offer for the fronts. The center would not fit in right due to it's size.man if you can swing 7k for the fronts Id think you could have all of them and MAKE it work. feel free to make offer via pm on fronts. Center seems big but not too bad and the surrounds are so tall and slender they are much less imposing than rs52/62 I've owned.

Also, I think they are KLF-20.

I have made several observations after a break in period between the two capacitor types I have had two good listening sessions since the Jantzen capacitor change However about 40 hours of music has gone through the system to settle in the new capasitors Fortunately the crossovers are fitted with attenuation in the mid range and tweeter section so I can tweak the db output to suit my room acoustics ect So on to a description of my listening experience Finally attenuation set on - Tweet on -5 db - Midrange - 11 db ( it sounds nice from 9 db to 12 db ) These atenuator settings have just the right and pleasing mix I like best for the room the system is set up in, but I change them to suit the material I am playing Bass - Apart from the defined sound that we can hear - The bass presentation is fast and defined and also fuller longer notes at the same time, Bass also acts like a vibrating wave machine, the sound waves just bore into the body , furniture and walls ect Mid Range - This section has had the biggest perceptible change The soundstage is more expanded and I explain it in this way - Notes start sharply and finish when the sound wave energy is depleted - drums, triangles , guitar strings, violin, piano, horns, breaking glass sounds ect - the notes just hang there if they are in the recording Tweeter - Top end at first was not as clinical as before but as the caps have settled in the top end is now very sharp and subtly more musical kinda fuller but very sharp at the same time ( hard to find a word of explanation for it ) If one could see the sound waves you could describe them as hugging the listener That's al I have in my report as I have written it as I was listening and describing my impressions for you as I listen in real time

Mmmmmm. Jamie Lee.

ATTENTION: BLUESBOY, TARHEEL, WARDSWEB, CANYONMAN Check iut this thread from almost ten (10) years ago. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/74029-attn-reel-to-reel-owners-music-exchange/ This is one if the reasins I live this place so much, people dig audio for audio. Bluesboy, did you move out West?

When I factored in the divorce lawyer, I don't think I can swing it. Great deal, someone grab it.

Some beautiful ribeyes and four cheese baked spaghetti. Listening to Martha Quin spin top forty 80's.

Deep sockets aren't going to cut it.

You may need to just rebuild the diverter valve then. No need to shut the water off.

BTW, anyone know anything about portable dehumidifiers? Ran one for a few hours yesterday...bone dry. Frigidaire 50 pint electronic controls model. Called their service line, and the menu didn't even include dehumidifiers in their product mix. Likely have to buy a new one. Any recommendations? This one may be about 10 years old already. They just don't make things to last any more. A bet there is a timer in there to tell it to quit after so many hours. Maybe I can find it and trick it or set it back to zero.

By the way, here is Google Maps' link to MiniDSP's world headquarters: https://www.google.com/maps/@22.312294,114.223621,3a,75y,166.31h,113.21t/data=!3m4!1e1!3m2!1sZTu-HNIoA8WBBWMyErNbjQ!2e0!6m1!1e1?hl=en

x

Which miniDSP product are you using? This one looks pretty interesting: http://www.minidsp.com/products/opendrc-series/minisharc-kit It has 32 bit, 48/96 kHz sampling, and you get to use your own IIR or FIR filtering (like rePhase, for instance), and it takes SD cards for control, so you don't need a dedicated computer to run it after configuration. There are unbalanced and balanced inputs--all for an incredible $185US. It looks like a downstream miniDSP 2 x 4 or 2 x 8 is required. However, you get to be the applications engineer to integrate into your system. Not sure about the sound quality, but it would be an interesting project for sure.

hey guys the first speaker out of three is done here so we can sit and hear some music. it's a Klipschorn bassbin with Bob's 1526C. TangBand 1772 is used behind the Oris 150 horn. the horn has no high pass filter but the woofer has it's own low pass @ 250hz 2nd order. this one-eyed monster sounds dynamic, detailed, immediate. Khorns bases are raw BB plywood. they are going to be veneered soon.

Yep.

The little stretch of grass between the sidewalk and the street. Duh.

N Core Mono Blocks

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=116 http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/2004554-dayton-um18-22-sealed-test-results-data-bass-com.html This is Josh Ricci testing of the Dayton UM 18. It is a good driver and has good grades from Ricci. Comparing vented and sealed subs is not apples to apples. Vented subs always have more spl around the tuning. Sealed subs are better in small room and vented subs for larger rooms unless you are going to get a lot of sealed boxes. The progression goes 2 to 4 to 6 or 8 and up if you are looking for the under 15 Hz output. Metro I am not sure that guy can say you set a sub to 15 Hz tuning to hit Xmax with the UM 18's in your boxes. Xmax will be hit based on driver parameters, box size, design, voltage, ect. Here is a graph at the MLP with my UM 18 subs. I use two vented and 6 sealed. You ask about mixing sealed and vented sub at one point. Most people will get higher 10-15 Hz output than I do since the room is so dran big. But, a good response down to 15 Hz is very doable in my 4300+ cuft. space. I really wish I lived closer to you to help to get those UM 18's to shine. The UM 18's test to have an Xmax of around 25 mm that is between the SI Ht 18 and highly reguraded ULX 18. Ricci is the guy that PSA, SVS, RA, HSU and others use to verify their specs on sub drivers and subs.

Tal hasn't been with for a few years, new bass player, she is better, different drummer, that is it, oh and the lead singer from Wet Willie. Saw him last week with ZZ Top, he wailed, like he always does. I saw the Who a few days before that, Pete comes out and says Jeff Beck is here tonight, so the pressure is on. He is a guitarist's guitar player. The lead singer for his first two albums after the Yardbirds was Rod Stewart. Live at Ronnie Lane's is pretty much a jazz show, and if yir not into that it isn't going to fly. There is a track where Clapton comes out and they do Bluebird together and Beck plays slide. Check out who is in the audience for that show, totally into it. He can make a guitar sound like a harmonica, an organ, whatever. He played a Hendrix tune, to perfection, blues, r and b, rock, jazz, and his own progressive stuff. He came out for two songs with ZZ and he and Billy Gibbons tore it up. They played for 20 minutes together, Dusty was a machine, and with Frank, that is a rhythm section that is tough to beat. Plays with his thumb and just goes to town. He plays as such a high level that some of his guitars have an inverted head stock so he can stretch strings differently. He did not utter a single word the entire night. If you have a chance to see him on this tour I cannot reccomend it highly enough. Travis

Well if I could not audition an amplifier in my own system before taking the plunge I'd base my decision on the few things.... I'm taking into account that the buyer has already ruled the piece will fit the situation power and feature wise. 1) First and foremost I'd use direct reviews from folks that actual own the piece and use it with speakers similar to mine. 2) I'd look very long and hard at how long these happy reviewers keep the piece of gear....often an initial review will be skewed by the new pride of ownership or justification for the $ spent... 3) Is it easy to find the amplifier for sale used? This is never a good sign! If its so great why are so many users dumping them at a monetary loss! 4) Is the gear reliable? and is the manufacturer easy to work if problems to crop up All of the above rules out buying gear that is new to the market place and for good reason.

I'd recommend a digital unit - not analog, meaning that you can set time delays for each tri-amp channel. This reduces your active loudspeaker processor marketplace choices by only a little. I would not recommend a miniDSP 2x4 (i.e., without the "HD") or the DDRC series if you aren't an electronics/software tinkerer. I would also recommend something other than the Behringer DCX2496 if you have a very discerning ear or you live in a latitude where it gets hot in the summer (Behringer units have a habit of eating their power supplies). Other than that, it's what your budget will allow - price generally follows performance. Used units on ebay or even craigslist locally have been pretty good bets - so I'd really recommend looking there after you get a list of models in your hand that you're interested in. Make sure that you are looking for 2-in, 6-out units. For instance, my EV Dx38s are good units but they are 2-in, 4-out units. Chris

Should have made a few plaster casts before you had them painted[6][].