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Is there an opinion or technical/accoustical  aspect of where the new, bigger and heavier crossover board gets mounted inside the speaker cabinet?

I'm recapping Heresy IIs, moving the crossover from terminal cup to a piece of wood. But now I'm not sure where to mount it. First and the most obvious place is bottom of the speaker. And I've noticed a few pictures of other upgrades here on forum with that position. On the other hand, Heresy Is have the original board mounted on side next to the tweeter/squaker. 

I can imagine that upper side mount can isolate the board and wires from direct woofer air pressure a bit since it would be covered by foam arch and prevent any cable vibrations. But the board is quite heavy and I'm worried that it could potentialy fall down no matter how unlikely it is with 4 mounting screws. So mounting on the bottom feels somehow safer. But then I'm not sure if the bottom is not vital part of the 'resonator' of Heresies design. My board will be mounted on 4 slices of wine cork silent blocks to prevent the vibration transfer from the speaker body.

 

Also, does the magnetic field of the drivers influence significantly any of crossover parts?

Thanks in advance for any insights.

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4 hours ago, cube48 said:

Is there an opinion or technical/accoustical  aspect of where the new, bigger and heavier crossover board gets mounted inside the speaker cabinet?

I'm recapping Heresy IIs, moving the crossover from terminal cup to a piece of wood. But now I'm not sure where to mount it. First and the most obvious place is bottom of the speaker. And I've noticed a few pictures of other upgrades here on forum with that position. On the other hand, Heresy Is have the original board mounted on side next to the tweeter/squaker. 

I can imagine that upper side mount can isolate the board and wires from direct woofer air pressure a bit since it would be covered by foam arch and prevent any cable vibrations. But the board is quite heavy and I'm worried that it could potentialy fall down no matter how unlikely it is with 4 mounting screws. So mounting on the bottom feels somehow safer. But then I'm not sure if the bottom is not vital part of the 'resonator' of Heresies design. My board will be mounted on 4 slices of wine cork silent blocks to prevent the vibration transfer from the speaker body.

 

Also, does the magnetic field of the drivers influence significantly any of crossover parts?

Thanks in advance for any insights.

 

IMHO you are over thinking this a bit and some may differ. Think about where the OEM xover was, on the back of the cup – very close to the woofer magnet.

 

Mount the xover where ever you would like as long as it is not interfering with anything else inside the cabinet. On the bottom would be fine if that is what you want.

 

 

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Thanks for your reply, @Alexander! I've put the board on side in the end. Maybe there was a reason for it in original HIs and it adhere better to Klipsch look if nothing else. Mounted on 4 screws seems rock solid.

But I'm facing another issue. One of the speakers is more silent than the other. Highs and mids are clean, just lower volume and bass is muddy, not slapping nicely like the other and also low volume. Other speaker sounds fantastic. Before I dive into and try to measure and re-solder all parts, do you guys have any idea what could be the potential culprit? I've ruled out the speaker cables and their polarity, cables between crossover and drivers incl. polarity, speaker position and amplifier. Thanks!

Edit: After some tinkering it showed up the problem was in amplifier(s). I've tried 3 different ones, unfortunatelly all had problems. All is fine with 4th one.

Edited by cube48
Added info.

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here is the KP 363 and the KP 301 II  ---------both speakers share the same XO

 

 

gallery_299_34_63980.jpg

 

 

 

kp 362 XO.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

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With so much "down time" these days, I decided to get off my duff and clean up the original AA x-overs that came with my cherished LS-s.  I've been using Crites X-overs for several years now, and had the originals in storage simply for "sentimental" purposes.  I got new boards, cleaned the various electronic parts and wires, and polished the screws.  I think they came out nice, and when the wife and I move into a Senior Facility in another five years or so and sell the LS-s, I believe the new owner will really appreciate having these come along with the speakers.

 

686924954_IMG_21182.thumb.jpg.c2fb4fe52f92aef6567ecda0da16bdb8.jpgIMG_2117.thumb.jpg.1ac07512041411ed6e15eaa87ca11643.jpg

 

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On 8/16/2020 at 4:50 PM, scalawag said:

With so much "down time" these days, I decided to get off my duff and clean up the original AA x-overs that came with my cherished LS-s.  I've been using Crites X-overs for several years now, and had the originals in storage simply for "sentimental" purposes.  I got new boards, cleaned the various electronic parts and wires, and polished the screws.  I think they came out nice, and when the wife and I move into a Senior Facility in another five years or so and sell the LS-s, I believe the new owner will really appreciate having these come along with the speakers.

 

686924954_IMG_21182.thumb.jpg.c2fb4fe52f92aef6567ecda0da16bdb8.jpgIMG_2117.thumb.jpg.1ac07512041411ed6e15eaa87ca11643.jpg

 

 

Fantastic job, that.  You should be proud / happy with the results!

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I was going to ask this, and then hit google first:

Does anyone have a schematic for a KP-3002 / KP-302 2 way?  I would be very appreciative, as my 3002's aren't accessible without a ton of work to pull the crossovers.

 

And then I found a schematic.   You can tell from the different instructions added on that the original modder put in his notes:

 

KP-302-Crossover.jpg

 

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On 8/16/2020 at 1:50 PM, scalawag said:

With so much "down time" these days, I decided to get off my duff and clean up the original AA x-overs that came with my cherished LS-s.  I've been using Crites X-overs for several years now, and had the originals in storage simply for "sentimental" purposes.  I got new boards, cleaned the various electronic parts and wires, and polished the screws.  I think they came out nice, and when the wife and I move into a Senior Facility in another five years or so and sell the LS-s, I believe the new owner will really appreciate having these come along with the speakers.

 

686924954_IMG_21182.thumb.jpg.c2fb4fe52f92aef6567ecda0da16bdb8.jpgIMG_2117.thumb.jpg.1ac07512041411ed6e15eaa87ca11643.jpg

 

Yes great job! What did you clean up the frames of the autoformer and inductor with? Well, just what did you use on everything?

@scalawag ?      BTW screw through center of tweeter coil is non magnetic?

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4 hours ago, babadono said:

Yes great job! What did you clean up the frames of the autoformer and inductor with? Well, just what did you use on everything?

I’m going to guess naval jelly or the like...

 

I have a stupid newb question: What is the thing in front of the coil on the bottom left of the board?  Are those resistors, or something else?

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Top left tweeter circuit coil, bottom left woofer inductor, to the right of woofer inductor(is this your question) are the infamous back to back zener diodes that are (supposed) to protect the anemic k77/T35 tweeters.

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20 hours ago, babadono said:

Top left tweeter circuit coil, bottom left woofer inductor, to the right of woofer inductor(is this your question) are the infamous back to back zener diodes that are (supposed) to protect the anemic k77/T35 tweeters.

 

Zener diodes...  Okay, now that makes sense as to their placement and connection.

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A lot of the crossovers have disappeared from here and they were only links... to no longer available sites. Or even here and the links don't work or the forum has lost them with an update.

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I have changed the tweeters in my Chorus 1’s to crites Ti, and I am looking to re-cap the crossovers but I’m struggling to find the correct caps. I think I’m right in that I need 68uf x1, 7uf x1 and 2uf x2 for each crossover? 

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Just picked up a huge lot of stuff at an estate sale. The prize for me is a nice set of RF-7's. I have been out of the Klipsch game for some time, and even back when I was here it was all heritage stuff I was into.

Is the resistor mod a good idea to tone these down a little bit and is it difficult to execute?

 

Also, oddly, I gave them a good cleaning today and noticed the ports move a little bit, that can't be good? Known issue?

Also, I have a lot of stuff to sell, Some RS-7's (3) an RC-7  3 subs, couple RC-35's .... I'll post those in yard sale if there is one here...

 

any tips on the resistor mod would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

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12 minutes ago, beerguy said:

Just picked up a huge lot of stuff at an estate sale. The prize for me is a nice set of RF-7's. I have been out of the Klipsch game for some time, and even back when I was here it was all heritage stuff I was into.

Is the resistor mod a good idea to tone these down a little bit and is it difficult to execute?

 

Also, oddly, I gave them a good cleaning today and noticed the ports move a little bit, that can't be good? Known issue?

Also, I have a lot of stuff to sell, Some RS-7's (3) an RC-7  3 subs, couple RC-35's .... I'll post those in yard sale if there is one here...

 

any tips on the resistor mod would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Welcome back!

There is a garage sale section here for your items. If someone doesn't come along on the mod, do a search of the forum. Tech/Mod section...

Thanks!

Just a spot of quick glue on loose ports.

Edited by billybob

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Hi Guys, I have a pair of original 1978 La Scalas that sound glorious to me. I've been told that the xover caps must be "bad" after all these years.  Am I missing something by not updating the xover or at least the caps?  Appreciate any advice!

 

thx

 

bob

Edited by steelgtr

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Welcome, steelgtr...

 

If they are from '78, there is a good chance the caps need replacing.As they age, the esr (equivalent series resistance) usually goes up, causing the specs of the crossover to change. Music detail and high freq. loss can occur.

 

You can get Klipsch approved  replacement caps, or replace with reasonably priced caps that match those in your crossovers. If yours are the oval metal can, those are no longer available.

 

 

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