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Dave A

Super MWM

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I reckon but it was just an example, looks like they've got #10 and #8 as well:) I know nothing, are those too big as well?

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1 hour ago, babadono said:

Oops that's across the pond how's 'bout:

If I would have only thought of asking you I would have known, I knew you were good but I had no idea. That would have worked in a smaller size.

 

There is a place in town, an old German dude owns it and they have almost everything (but that) and he even looked in a huge Mcmaster-car catalog and there was nothing in it like what I was looking for, he said probably Klipsch has a vendor who made them as they wanted them designed.

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4 hours ago, dtel said:

All I could think about was what if I pushed out some t nuts when putting in the driver, I would be in trouble. Klipsch used t nuts that had 2 ears on them which got screwed in, I couldn't find anything like that. 

 

Could always get some fender washers with suitable ID, drill some holes in the perimeters ... or use wood.  :)

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22 minutes ago, kg4guy said:

can't wait to see these bad boys done .

 

I know how that feels.

 

13 minutes ago, glens said:

 

Could always get some fender washers with suitable ID, drill some holes in the perimeters ... or use wood.  :)

True, I would have figured out something.

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2 hours ago, babadono said:

Backing plate and a Tee nut with four little spike thingies on the flange are the way to go. Cant be forced back out and if it spins you have done something silly.

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I used these years ago on a project.  Maybe they're the tee nut with two ears?  I used them in blind holes where there was no access to the back.

 

In any event. I found that sometime they will get canted and difficult to keep perpendicular while installing.  I put them on a machine screw with a jam nut up against the brass insert to allow them to be held perpendicular while driving   Better is a bolt with jam nut up against the insert and with some jam nuts near the hex head to allow use of a socket wrench.  And being over cautions, used epoxy too.

 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-3-8-in-Brass-Standard-SAE-Wood-Insert-Lock-Nut/3012578?cm_mmc=search_google-_-Tools%20and%20Hardware-_-Dsa_tah_126_fastening%20&%20Repair-_-&k_clickID=_k_CjwKCAjwycfkBRAFEiwAnLX5IWapLO3h1wO7lg8q11dSNfnmUTs6RPJCgBx9ZvwLrUv9jq3TaIUfLBoCbsYQAvD_BwE_k_&gclid=CjwKCAjwycfkBRAFEiwAnLX5IWapLO3h1wO7lg8q11dSNfnmUTs6RPJCgBx9ZvwLrUv9jq3TaIUfLBoCbsYQAvD_BwE

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On 3/20/2019 at 9:31 PM, WMcD said:

I used them in blind holes where there was no access to the back.

OK I remember those, I used them once to fix some chairs, I forgot all about those, they do work well.

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On 3/20/2019 at 9:31 PM, WMcD said:

I used these years ago on a project.  Maybe they're the tee nut with two ears?  I used them in blind holes where there was no access to the back.

 

In any event. I found that sometime they will get canted and difficult to keep perpendicular while installing.  I put them on a machine screw with a jam nut up against the brass insert to allow them to be held perpendicular while driving   Better is a bolt with jam nut up against the insert and with some jam nuts near the hex head to allow use of a socket wrench.  And being over cautions, used epoxy too.

 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-3-8-in-Brass-Standard-SAE-Wood-Insert-Lock-Nut/3012578?cm_mmc=search_google-_-Tools%20and%20Hardware-_-Dsa_tah_126_fastening%20&%20Repair-_-&k_clickID=_k_CjwKCAjwycfkBRAFEiwAnLX5IWapLO3h1wO7lg8q11dSNfnmUTs6RPJCgBx9ZvwLrUv9jq3TaIUfLBoCbsYQAvD_BwE_k_&gclid=CjwKCAjwycfkBRAFEiwAnLX5IWapLO3h1wO7lg8q11dSNfnmUTs6RPJCgBx9ZvwLrUv9jq3TaIUfLBoCbsYQAvD_BwE

Not a bad idea if one of the Tee nuts strips out. It would make it possible to use a different set of holes to mount the speakers. For sheer pull out strength the Tee nuts are the ones though and with care should never give trouble.

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3 hours ago, Dave A said:

For sheer pull out strength the Tee nuts are the ones though and with care should never give trouble.

True I was not worried about pull out strength but one being pushed in. After I put the t nuts in I wanted to run a bolt through them to make sure they were clean for mounting later, when slightly pushing the bolt into one to start the threads it wanted to come loose and push out the back, that was a big problem.

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Well here is how I see the two comparing Tee nuts and inserts. The Tee nut can be pushed out but the backer board prevents that. The brass insert cant be pushed out but alignment is a problem and the pullout strength is FAR less. If you do not use a power tool to run the screws in and out your chances of cross threading or pushing these out become almost non-existent anyway but most of us, myself included, choose to be lazy and sometimes suffer consequences..

  • Haha 1

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On 3/28/2019 at 11:18 AM, Khornukopia said:

Are you using your track saw on this build? 

Yes

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Thanks, and reviewing this interesting thread again, I now see where you already wrote about the track saw a couple pages back.

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1 hour ago, Khornukopia said:

Thanks, and reviewing this interesting thread again, I now see where you already wrote about the track saw a couple pages back.

I cut the motorboards on my mill though all else was cut with the tracksaw.

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So............where are the pics?  We need to see this!!

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Wrapping up a few projects at the same time and will start loading pictures Monday.

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I can hardly wait...

 

I've been helping my wife with a bunch of projects, so all of mine have slid to the back burner... then the burner got turned off (only temporarily...)

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On 4/6/2019 at 3:37 PM, Marvel said:

I can hardly wait...

 

I've been helping my wife with a bunch of projects, so all of mine have slid to the back burner... then the burner got turned off (only temporarily...)

I know that feeling. The S-MWM's are want to not have to and so the first to be delayed.

 

2 hours ago, Ziggurat said:

I think I want to build a set of these.....

Do you have any CAD programs? I can send you a file on this now if you do otherwise you will have to wait a while before I do 2D line drawings.

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