Schu

as a general set of rules... because nothing is ever equal in the real world. I make my placement measurements CTC (center to center) or 'on axis'. I prefer my speakers placed as wide as possible (X axis), and while MLP (main listening position... Y axis) might be somewhat foreshortened, it makes for a wider sound stage, which is what I prefer. Currently my personal speakers are 17'ctc apart, and my MLP is 16' on the Y axis. for me personally, there are some other aspects that I also try and adhere to... I don't like Boundary gain, so I never place my speakers against a boundary layer/wall to the point where I even preferred my Klipschorns AWAY from any wall and I used 'wings' to augment LF extension. I also DO NOT like sitting up against a rear wall where reflections and time arrival issues are experienced. If I had a small room, I would use a near field layout myself.

A DAP plugs directly into a preamp... that's what I do if I can only get a piece of music digitally, like many Soundtracks these days. SP3000

I am not sure I would be using a beryllium driver for Home Theater... it seems like a terrible waste.

Good... Better... Best...

Placement and 'summing' can help you out with that...

there is no there there.

All of these Direct Radiating Subwoofers are more alike than they are different... some are better built than others, some have more output than others, some have more features than others... but at the end of the day, they are similar. I ran an OLD sw115 with La Scala II's for years with great success... the trick is blending them correctly and not allowing the subwoofer to over power that sub 40Hz region of the frequency band. If you've chosen to go with a direct radiating subwoofer over a horn loaded subwoofer, then it really doesn't matter that much imho... choose your features, choose your output and choose your price point and with some finesse, I am sure you'll be a happy camper... UNTIL SOMETHING BETTER COMES ALONG, hint.

better?

this is a walk thru video with audio... frankly, if you take the time to listen in it's entirety the consistency and coverage of the sound, as this person walks thru the venue, is quite impressive. When CES comes to town, the sphere is going to be PACKED. At 2 billion dollars, it better sound good!

not really no... the ess you have in the 105 is decent for sure. I use an external, so for me its more about the movie performance upgrade. I think there may have been a 'mechanism' difference between the 103/105 and the 203/205 which would help... but I cant find any info on that. I do know there is, in my ears, an upgrade to having multiple DAC chipsets separated between LR as a general idea, but I dont know for sure if the 205 had multiple chipsets... like I had said, i dont use the internal DAC

I have those secret photos (roy would not like them to be posted again I am sure)... and in the photoshop above, the heritage sub is scaled accurately using a AL5 (in relation to a jubilee) which the sub was sitting next to in those now delete pictures. also, Roy himself posted tentative dimensions of all the potential Heritage sub releases. I can't imagine Klipsch will release to the market all the prototype sizes.

it depends on what year and adornments your d18 has... is it Sitka or Adirondack? what bracing pattern? is it modified in anyway? in as far as Martin set up goes, they come from the factory like that on purpose... CF Martin expects owners to modify their guitars to their liking and everyone's 'Liking' is different than anyone else's. what's more important when you buy a Martin is neck profile and not string height.

for scale, the Jubilee's are 17 feet apart ctc and the oled is 65"

Still going strong and I am still VERY happy... But I might be moving towards Lampizator sometime in the future.

Oppo 203 (or a 205 if you really need a dac), the Reavon or Jay's Audio (if you dont need video)

How much YouTube do you watch? 6-12 hours a day... every day.

Maguro...

Not very scientific but, My ears... that's how.