^^^^^^^^^ that stuff?  Gimme a break.  Yea, we're OLD!  😂     Gotta just preach and teach!     😂😂

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I basically agree with you, and I also write that I would always let my ear decide in the end. My friend also writes along these lines. But I have the impression that Melvin wants a stronger sense of security for a correct base, and a measurement can help there. However, I see it like my buddy that it's hopeless to use a measurement microphone in a normal living room. That only works in an anechoic chamber. That's why checking the AC output voltage on the amp is a good approach.

Not using your ears... is a complete waste of time. the original question was VERY specific... it doesn't ask about using similar topology stacks.   if you are relying on a measurement device to determine for you is something sounds good, you may be able to teach a science class... but you're doing it wrong.   Learn to use your ears.

@dirtmudd come on be nice to @MicroMara that's A LOT for him to comprehend.  😂    Calm down and breathe George...       It's a time & space thing Mr Mudd.  Sometimes ya just have to roll with him too.  He's got a groove somewhere up there for just about anything.  Ya just knock on the door of that lil compartment.  It'll open for ya.  Kinda maybe.       All better now @MicroMara? 

However, I did not describe the method with the measuring microphone, but rather the case that you don't have a measuring tool. You can get a rough approximation if the sound comes from the centre, provided that you have connected both basses and tweeters in a phase-correct manner. On the left, the one amp that will later be used for both basses, and on the right, the other amp that will then be used for the two basses. Of course, with tube amps, you also have to take into account which output tap is used for bass and treble. This at least gives you a rough orientation because your ear can distinguish more fairly between left, right and centre than when you have to match a bass with a tweeter by ear.   I didn't recommend the 4 dB louder in the bass, maybe it has to do with how DSpeaker works (which I don't know) and how much bass DSpeaker reduces to get a balance in the end.   This was perhaps a simple approach, and I found it sufficient for more than 14 years for my oen pleasure. However, it will never be completely accurate. When the fine-tuning between the bass and the K402 takes place, it ultimately depends on the timbre of an instrument, and we are really in the fine-tuning range. For example, you can hear the unmistakable sound of a familiar saxophonist in good headphones. I had chosen the thick guitar sound of Wes Montgomery because it is composed of both the bass and the K402. I've known Wes's tone for 50 years and I play a Gibson L5 myself. You hear it through your headphones and then through the Jubilee, so you can fine-tune whether it matches the sound of Wes Montgomery.   A good friend described a much more accurate method when I asked him for help. You may remember that I forwarded it to you. Honestly, it's not as difficult as it sounds. Read it two or three times and follow the steps. You don't need more than a voltage tester and sine tones from, for example, YouTube in the range of the acoustical cut-off frequency, approx. 500 Hz for the Jubilee. By now you know how to operate the Yamaha DSP. That was the biggest hurdle at the beginning. Now you would be able to do it. And it is very accurate You can finally do the „soundcheck“ by ear with the sound of a familiar musician in the mid range spectrum as well   Here is what my buddy wrote:     Here's how I would do it: 1) Hook up everything as expected: source -> preamp -> xover -> amplifier -> speaker with the amplifiers on the tap settings you want to use, etc   2) find a way to get a sine tone generator at the source it preamp stage. Could be a CD with tones on it if you don't have a laptop.   3) I forget the acoustic xover frequency of the UJ, but find a tone near that frequency. Let's say 800Hz is the frequency.... You're going to play that 500Hz tone indefinitely and make sure nothing else can play (loop that channel, etc).   4) you're going to bypass all the processing in the DSP so that a full signal goes to both tweeter and woofer. This is why it's important to make sure you don't send a low frequency signal to the tweeter. Keeping the volume low should help too.   You need to remove any gain adjustment in the xover too. 0dB gain through the unit with no filters or other gain stages active.   5) Take a voltmeter, put it into the Vrms or V AC mode. And measure the voltage at the output of each amplifier.   6) Adjust the gain of each amplifier until they all read the same voltage.  If the individual amplifiers don't have fine adjustment, then you can use the DSP output gain for finer adjustment. If you use the DSP, then you need to keep track of the delta between amplifiers and apply that difference to the stock settings.   7) Once you're done, you can turn the DSP filters back on and listen to music.  What you've done here is measured the gain differences between the two amplifiers and applied the necessary adjustment after the xover. One tricky thing here is that you've matched the output at a single frequency. When the tube amps try to match their output impedance with the tap settings, there is frequency variation due to the nonlinear impedance of the speaker. So you might still want to adjust by ear slightly.   Measuring the acoustic output is a better way to voice the speaker, but it would require an anechoic environment. It's nearly impossible to achieve the same gain accuracy inside a room. I have definitely voiced speakers with only in room measurements, but it's always done by ear.... Using measurements to help identify the Q and slopes of the effects I'm trying to correct....and then I'm moving the mic and changing the time gating and filtering to be able to see what I'm hearing....and then adjust by ear once I can see my filter is lined up.     Make sure using this method of voltage measurement the speakers are ALWAYS. connected to the amp.

@Schu This is how I used to do it in the beginning: adjusting the amplifier for the bass cabinets by ear, turning it up or down. For me, this method absolutely doesn't work. I kept fiddling with the volume knob for every different song 😏 and after a few songs I was totally lost.    Thank you for your responses, I get the impression that you balance things using a more precise method than I do. And as I understand it, you also adjust the amplifiers to be exactly equivalent to each other.   Although I have REW and a calibrated USB measurement microphone, I seem to be doing things more loosely than you. (This method was recommended to me by KT88, as it best fits my level of knowledge.) I connect amplifier 1 to the left speaker (including both the bass cabinet and the mid-horn) and amplifier 2 to the right speaker. Then I play pink noise and measure the decibels of both speakers individually using a dB meter, and adjust them to match. I then set the amplifier for the bass cabinets about 4 dB louder, as the DSpeaker anti-mode 2 filters out quite a bit of bass due to its acoustic corrections.

Someone should grab this rare gem.

@MicroMara

When A DAC can track a 100 person chorus with several cymbal hits and not get confused. JJK