Titebond III doesn't fully cure to the extent that type 1 or type II adhesives do. It remains somewhat pliable and prone to movement, comparatively. It may or may not be a problem IRL, but I've always avoided it unless I had a specific application that called for it. I've also found that it gums up sanding sheets more than types I or II. 

@gigantic, why not Titebond III? I've found that III gives a slightly longer working time to get everything aligned and clamped.

You could also put them face to face, reverse one channels speaker leads so the are out of phase... send lf freq.

I hook mine up before installing in the cabinet and run a low-frequency test tone at 10v overnight. Outside the cabinet, they're pretty quiet.

Well then, since you have wall terminals, I would use the multimeter to see if the wiring between the input and output wall terminals is shorted. Perhaps it's something shorted at the wall plate, and nothing to do with the speaker.

I'm a master carpenter and former cabinetmaker. I use Titebond 1 (red cap)  or II, (blue cap) but not Titebond III and never polyurethane or epoxy.  

Will be back later, so will have to test later today. Have to figure out where the kids went with my multimeter to test the other speaker, because I forgot to bring another one with me to verify against. Honestly, I 100% expected to test virtually no resistance because I was 100% sure it had shorted.   The receiver stayed in protection mode the first time I tried restarting it, before I touched anything. After I disconnected the speaker from the wall terminals, it worked fine. I would expect if it had been any issue with the receiver, or had caused damage to the receiver at all, that it likely still would have been acting up even without that speaker hooked up.   Hopefully, the issue will have been something pressing up against the connections, and the receiver caught it quick enough to protect everything. Not holding my breath though. Fully expecting to be down a pair of speakers for awhile.   I will update when I get a chance to test.

I don’t currently have a Sonos pre amp. But I use the Sonos move and Sonos one at our office so I am familiar with there products.    Do you recommend another pre amp for the Heresy. Mine are 1979. I am trying keep using them with the modern networking- Bluetooth - Voice commands- etc. I just don’t want to sacrifice its performance to much with a smaller amp. I have a 1995 HK 60 watt 2 channel and the herersy runs great. I wast just doubtful that those newer compact amp would match up well with the vintage power??

Welcome to the forum. I just watched a video on the amp. It should work and have plenty of umph.  These small amps can work well for space constraints and WAF.  Do you have a Sonos system. There are other small amps that can power your speakers.

@What-watt   What amplifier are you asking about?   Odd that it can use EL34/6CA7 and not a KT66. KT66 is not always a direct replacement for a 6L6 because it has more filament/heater draw, but it is less than EL34/6CA7/KT77 and the KT88 only draws 0.1A more. A tube amplifier can not be optimized for multiple tube types, it a marketing thing.