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We have to like this guy ! @ The 13 minute mark... Has a pair of la scalas and some mac gear ..

Can't help to notice the "Ho" on the right looks like an inflatable, Dirtmudd. If not ... back off the pancake makeup. She looks like a mannakin. I can't spell and spellcheck ain't no help... sorry

We watch about 2 Blu-ray movies per week (occasionally 3 or 4) and I listen to either 2 channel or 5.0 or 5.1 channel music every day (ah, retirement!), all through the same system, L & R Klipschorns (stock, AK4 upgrade). The center is a modified Belle Klipsch (top hat rebuilt, with a K401 replacing the Belle mid-horn, with the new top hat deep enough to accommodate it, while the whole enclosure, bin and top, is the height of the Khorns (tweeters equal height). The whole thing is buried in the wall, in a bump out protruding through the wall, into the other side. The Belle is thus flush mounted, and an equal distance from the Main Listening Position as the two Khorns (within 0.1 feet, according to Audyssey's distance (time) measurement. There is no grille cloth on the front of the Belle, but that whole wall is covered with an "acoustically transparent" (I know that's like "clean coal") wall fabric. Audyssey makes the treble response as flat as that of the Khorns. Nothing is between the Khorns, except a wall mounted African bowl above the Belle. The Belle sits on a strong shelf inside the bump out. The sub (Klipsch RSW 15) is tucked under that shelf, and is also behind the fabric Surrounds are Heresy IIs. They are slightly behind the listeners (more about that later). Center channel and sub hidden behind wall fabric. Other two thirds of wall solid, but fabric covered. AT projection screen (Seymour), when down, makes apparently no audible difference in sound (it is one Roy tested for another forum member, and found, IIRC, 1.5 dB loss at the high end. We flipped a coin and decided to run Audyssey with the screen down. The room is usually under more subdued lighting than with this flash. Side wall I haven't had the energy to start de-mastering yet. Most of my classical SACD multichannel sound fine, as do the jazz disks. I have a few other multi, including Dark Side of the Moon, which, as Chris A. said, is outstanding. A friend convinced me to try Dolby PL II on two channel sources. I resisted, but it turned out to be an improvement on some 2 channel disks, but a good number of our CDs need de-mastering -- or something. With the surrounds behind us, and as far as possible to the side, with some recordings (several movies, Dark Side of the Moon, the BSO/Levine recording of the Brahms Requiem, some Concord jazz SACDs, etc., the side walls come alive, with 6 or more loci. Others suck.

This is a sample of wood we will be using on the museum editions. We received this a couple of weeks ago from the KGI veneer vendor. The sample comes from the vendor unfinished/raw applied to MDF board. One of the many people at the Factory wanting to go the extra mile for this special project volunteered to shoot it with a couple of their different laquer finishes. Again, this is a veneer sample, not the actual speaker, mounted on MDF in matte lacquer finish. Feel free to allow your imagination run wild. Travis

If you're here, you obviously have some interest in being able to extend or start from scratch to play multichannel recordings on your primarily hi-fi setup. There is a lot to share on this subject I believe, "share" being the key word. But try to keep your entries brief and to the point (and I'll try to do that, too). No "audiophile crusades" here, please. First the caveats and guidelines. This isn't a Klipsch Reference, Klipsch THX Ultra, or other home theater thread. So no further discussion of these topics is encouraged on those subjects--except in terms of comparisons as they may occur to focus on the differences between a HT setup and perhaps how hi-fi multichannel setups might also function as home theater systems. [If you presently own primarily home theater and bookshelf loudspeakers and electronics that are primary geared toward canned audio and video reproduction solutions from Klipsch or other manufacturers (and are content staying in that realm), this is really not the place to discuss those.] There are plenty of other threads in the Home Theater forum for those discussions. What this thread is: 1) It's about extending your very high quality stereo setup, mainly used for listening to music into a setup so that it can also play high fidelity (hi-fi) multichannel music recordings. [If it does that well, it will also be a knock-your-socks-off HT setup with the addition of a suitable flat screen or projector video system. But first and foremost, its focus is on hi-fi audio listening.] 2) It's about assessing where you are now, your multichannel goal(s), and how to get there within reasonable budgetary and available personal time constraints over time. 3) It's about practical assessments of sound quality of multichannel audio components and room acoustics--their suitability to hi-fi multichannel...and not so much "the party line" of audiophilia. In other words, if you're a analog-only person, this probably isn't your thread in most likelihood. If you're a tube-only person, or one that currently plays only phonograph records on multi-thousand dollar turntables/cartridges and is basically happy only having that, this probably isn't your thread either (for reasons of affordability, reliability, and maintainability of a multichannel system). It's okay. You'll survive not posting your opposing viewpoints here to those who choose to come here wanting to discuss this particular subject--without having to defend themselves. 4) And it's foremost about talking about our experiences (subject to the constraints above), put into context so that others may benefit that are going down this path. If you agree with the above, we're good to go. If you disagree, well then--please start another thread and discuss that subject there. _______________________________________________________________________________________________ I think there are a few areas that we need to talk about for sure: a) listening room suitability for multichannel music reproduction b) where you're at in terms of present stereo or less-than 5.1 setup (multichannel music discs are all 5.1 or 5.0--and none are 7.1 or Atmos, etc.). c) looking closely at your loudspeakers and acoustic room treatments, and how those might differ from stereo-only rooms. d) then looking at the electronics (multichannel-capable music sources, preamps, crossovers, amplifiers, signal conditioners). e) putting it all together, ensuring that it's doing what it's supposed to (including measurements), and systematically upgrading as you go along, f) avoiding expenditures that dilute attaining your multichannel goals--at least until those multichannel goals are first met in order achieve a superior multichannel system Chris

Been having one for a few years now, looks great, might have got lucky, or you were unlucky?

I was concerned about the reliability as well, but my research showed that all the brands had reliability problems and of course the Oleds (which all use LG panels) have the image burn-in concerns. My Viz was new-for-2018 and doesn't use the same screen as in the past, it's the P Series Quantum and it's covered with the standard 1 year-warranty plus I got a 4 year warranty beyond that. It's been phenomenal so far, the PQ is great. I fretted about it long enough, I had to get something!

… o O (squeegee is ready, commence..)

Clocks in and goes to make a pot of coffee...

It had a console with a tach....

Got Melissa a new vacuum for Christmas. She's flying home tonight for a few days which has me wondering if I'll end up here:

I still haven't lost the desire to straighten out some of our fabulous Rocky Mountain roads. My go-cart awaits the coming of Spring and the departure of the snow blower:

yes, 400 block 4.25 stroke.

Sounds like you need to do the “sub-crawl” Placement of the towers is also very important but I would start with optimizing the sub first.

The M-Series Vizio I bought on December 7, 2014 still works flawlessly. Keith

They were just more fun to drive to me. My first car was a bug, my dad got 4-5 and a van from a friend and told me if I wanted a car make one from these. The painter from the airport painted it for me I picked Corvette blue metallic from the paint book, it later caught on fire from a loose fuel line and then painted bright yellow, don't know why ? At 16 it was a great deal but later I went over to the 2 seaters after buying a girlfriend's dads car, he raced in SCCA and I was hooked. Now I don't care what we have as long as it gets me where we're going, but if I had a fun car to drive it might be different.

Chev's 409 would be an expensive engine to build and run. They didn't make many as it was not a big block like the later 396, nor a small block like the existing Chevrolet small block developed originally for the Corvette. With twisty roads 2 seater sports cars are more fun to drive fast too. Wb

Slowpar? There no such thing. Here's a pic of the 700hp BB slowpar as you call it.

In general, your loudspeakers should be aimed at the main listening position(s) (MLPs). In your case--the angular difference between wall alignment and aimed-at-the-listener is so small, this isn't an issue with loudspeakers having vertical or coaxial alignment of their drivers. For loudspeakers not having vertical driver alignment (like with HT center-channel loudspeakers with their side-by-side arrangements), this is an issue, and you need to have very careful alignment to the MLP. But fortunately most setups using these compromised loudspeaker designs usually have the center channel aimed directly at the centroid of the MLPs. Having the surrounds forward of your MLP actually helps in their surround performance--as shown in the figures above from Toole's book. (By the way, if you don't own a copy of Toole's book, now is a good time to think about acquiring one since much of what we're talking about in this thread is explained in even more detail in his book. I recommend any of his book's editions, but the third edition seems a little better organized than the first two editions.) Chris

When I was 16 and dropping hints to my Dad about buying me a car he said that if I could get that old Chevrolet in the driveway running then I could have it. Otherwise I could walk. That was in 1969. I started learning about engines real quick. Got the 327 running pretty soon. Rebuilt the engine, changed the rear out to 4.11 posi and bought extra powerglide transmissions. Top speed was around 80MPH. Felt like I was towing a dump truck. Needed room for the bigger tires so I went to the premiere suspension shop in town and they installed '409' springs all the way around. Lifted the car around 3 inches and rode like it was built that way. I didn't recognize it as my car when I went to pick it up. After a lot of tinkering someone liked it as much as I did and carried it with them. It was found by a county sheriff while he was hunting about 6 months later. He said he didn't know how they got it in there unless they dropped it from a helicopter. It was very similar to the one pictured below.

I have no idea, it was just an engine in the shop he and my uncle had, I was pretty young. It was an aircraft repair shop, small planes, and helicopters and when things were slow they built frames for dragsters. This was so long ago it was when you sat behind the engine with your legs around the bellhousing pretty much. He kept this engine for years for some reason, he asked me later if I wanted it. I was very young and was playing with Volkswagens and 2 seater sports cars, right at the perfect time for muscle cars and with all the help I could have wanted, I messed up badly. But they did help me with my little cars.

2 4bbl carb 409 was an option for 62,63 & 64.

Was it a 1962 or later model year 409? SNIP From Hemmings Motor News: 'With an instant reputation, there was no question that the 409 would come back, and when it did, there would be no more mistakes. For '62, Chevy again made the 409 available in any full-sized car; the block was re-engineered, with reinforced webs for the main bearings. GM continued to develop the head, with intake valves 0.13-inch larger at 2.203. A cam with 85 degrees of overlap was unchanged, but valve springs were now stouter to address the breaking problem, rated at 320 pounds of tension open, up from 280. The engines retained forged aluminum pistons, but now they were tin-plated, and the old solid skirts were replaced with slipper skirts to control clattering. Their heads were now milled to clear the big valves, meaning there were two different pistons in each engine: one set for cylinders 1, 4, 5 and 8, and one for numbers 2, 3, 6 and 7. A new oil pump also increased pressure to 75 PSI from 40. Lastly, to improve swirl around the intakes, GM refined the shape of the piston domes. Compression dropped from '61's 11.25:1 to a hair over 11:1, but larger primaries for the Carter AFZB-3345SA upped output to 380hp at 5,800 RPM and 420-lbs.ft. of torque at 3,200. Oh, and there was also a new dual-quad option: twin Carter AFBs on the high-riser intake for a rated 409hp at 6,000 RPM and 420-lbs.ft. of torque at 4,200.'

Well I fired them up today no problem. Using a six watt tube amp and they sound great. These things love tubes.

My father had a 64 Impala SS, Black with hubcaps, 400 horse, 456 gear 409. Always spoke of racing with his buddies and pissed about the Hemi's passing him in the last 50 feet of the 1/4 mile. The dual quad was faster but only if you tinkered with it constantly to keep it in tune.

he he The guy said a lot without saying anything. Should be on Capitol Hill. ** gametime! I LOVE my DVR see ya later

Had to turn it down a tad... over powering the room... Back to normal listening levels

🤘🤘

Damn it to hell...I don't understand this on the below model....Impedance: 12 Ω average on this model. I'm playing through a Mac Mini to a Wyred4sound DAC, to a pair of Wyred4Sound mAmps...Will the below work? M3 Triode Master Specifications Type: 2-way, point source, open-baffle, dipolar, controlled directivity Chassis:: Two Layer HDF (High Density Fiberboard) Driver compliment: Two 15 inch mid/woofers, one Spatial M35 Dipolar Compression driver Crossover: 700Hz - Passive - Hologram Network Technology - WBT NextGen Binding Posts Frequency Response: 32Hz - 22kHz +/- 3dB in room response Efficiency: 93dB 1W@1M Impedance: 12Ω average Recommended amplifiers -tube or solid state 8 Watts to 200 Watts Dimensions: 42T x 17W x 3D inches, 55 lbs net each 20 year limited warranty 60 day trial period allows you to experience the M3 in your own home without risk. American innovation. Made in USA Available in Black, Red and White Satin. Lead time for new orders approx 1 week.

Stock was single 4bbl carb, 360HP. Wb

During my prostate exam I asked the doctor, "where should I put my pants"? "Over there by mine", was not the answer I was expecting.

woo hoooooo!!!! 60 mph in first gear the two speed powerglide was so different

Literally?? Good God that is insane! They were $3.00 each back then when lemmon quit making them. You could have gotten wealthy with the proper connections. This is pretty heavy, these guys loved to rock Nicklebag: If you're basically a rocker, the rest of this LP is even better including one they played on FM (after dark of course).

...it’s not hoarding if you can still close all of the doors in your house...

Here they are [emoji16] Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk

I’ve always been fascinated by the Klipsch THX Ultra2 system, although I’ve never had the chance to listen to it. I’ve now come across a demo set for a reasonable price, consisting of: 3 x KL-650 THX LCR front 2 x KS-525 THX surround 2 x 7800-S THX surround 2 x KW-120 THX subwoofer 12" 1 x KA-1000 THX amplifier My current HT system consists of: 3 x RF7 front 2 x RS62 surround 2 x RB81mk2 surround 2 x KW-120 THX subwoofer 1 x KA-1000 THX amplifier I am wondering now, if this will be an upgrade at all ? Am I blinded by my long the desire for the Ultra2 set? Are the RF7/RS62 actually outperforming the KL650/KS525 in HT?

Those Klipschorns are beautiful.

another.

I called Al, and he said that the crossover should work fine for my application. The swamper resistor will allow both 8 and 16 Ohm compression drivers to be used. Al also gave me some advice on component selection and layout of the crossover. He was very helpful, despite not knowing me from Adam and having nothing to gain from it. Thanks Al!

I'm uncertain.. I think his was a single.. It had a powerglide...

I'm not a fan of the Fiat influenced vehicles. I see electrical and drivability issues more on them than the Grand Cherokee. I don't care for their electrical architecture or connectors. Check their reliability ratings.

I bought a pair of boots the other day. As I was checking out there was an offer of $50 off if I applied/approved for a Visa credit card. Are you kidding? About 30 seconds later I checked out saving the $50 plus the taxes. I'll pay that off and cancel the card in the next few weeks. Does it hurt my credit? I really don't give a s**t if it does or doesn't. Do I take advantage of zero to low interest rate financing? Darn right. Is my money sitting in the CU earning a measly rate of interest. Yes it is. Do I have plenty of time to write a check monthly and mail it while my money mildews at the CU? Yes, yes I do. Will their money that I'm using cost me anything months from now while my moldy money has earned hundreds at the CU? Doesn't cost me a thing. Am I cheap? Hardly. I enjoy paying back banks and institutions that took advantage of me back when I didn't have a choice. I find the practice entertaining. YMMV. Keith

I wish Klipsch still offered raw birch. Raw MDF wouldn't look as good as these do. GLWS on some pretty LaScalas

Looking. I'm not a fan of vanity animals, but Morgan has been wanting a pair for a couple of years now and finally found some locally at a really good price. The pea hens are supposed to be excellent for egg incubation, so there's that.

http://outlawaudio.com/products/7000x.html Started a separate thread on this one. Check it out. New release from Outlaw Audio.

Because our currency is basically debt to a semi-private bank, there is no real economic growth. The Federal Reserve drops interest rates, floods the economy with money and easy debt for the corporations to leverage and float their stock then the bubble bursts and the cycle repeats itself. The stock market is basically a giant casino where you lose 1-3% of your money every year and you have to gamble just to keep the money you have.