Leaderboard

Speakers arrived today!!! Another week for the e5000 (and before I can listen to them...). And yes, the pool table will be moved..

Reminded me of a story (I've told this before) I bought my EV Interface D's in 1978. Brought them into my bedroom. Had them attached to a Yamaha 100 watt receiver (forget model). Had some AKG headphones. Put the headphones on, turned some Aerosmith on and UP. It was loud (hey, I was 18) I was AMAZED at how those headphones vibrated my head, my feet....in fact, the entire ROOM was just pounding. I was utterly facenated at how they performed. I might have even turned it up louder to feel the room pound, via the AKG's. About then, my red-faced, fire spewing mother barged into my room yelling/screaming for me to TURNNNNNNNN it DOWNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN I was perplexed as I took the headphones off..... uh oh.... seems I had forgotten to turn the speakers off. So while I was listening to the headphones thinking I was being respectful, I was in fact pounding the britches out of the house with the EV's pumping away. Since I had the cans on, I was oblivious that the speakers were pounding (-3db point at 28 hz) No way could I even try to say it was an accident. How on earth do you have it at deafening volume and not know? Well, because I'm a teenage dumbazz who was amazed at how fantastic the headphones vibrated the entire room??? Oops. Love ya mom!

I guess I'll wait and see if that message comes up...I know I have used the SPL meter function of REW before but I don't recall if that message came up...Man I'm getting old...

I don't know if it's been mentioned but..I've had lots of Klipsch and listening at low volumes never seemed quite full. I may just have sensitivity in some frequency but they always fill out when cranked up. At low volumes I get too little bass and too much highs. Fortunately the older radios with loudness compensation cure that for the most part. DB all depends of course, 60 to 70 for just me. Above that with friends. As loud as it can go within physics when partying.

Yep, music, photography , and women , oh, and cars 🤓

Some people just love to argue on the Internet. I don't care how loud other people listen to music in their home. I was just curious to know how loud most Klipsch Forum participants liked to play their music. Now I know that many like very loud and of course thats cool. Whatever floats your boat! I find myself in the other camp of people that prefer music mostly below 90 DBs at my listening location. Seeing how loud people like listening helps me know where people are coming from on this Forum.

Hi all, I have been using Onkyo R-N855 with Klipsch RP-150M for computer desk and now trying to setup a Home Theater system in my basement. Room is about 5 (w) x 8 (d) x 2.5 (h) meters. Planning two step setup: a) Buy RP-8000F II and a center speaker first, then b) Buy Subwoofer(2), monitor and Dolby Atmos later. Mainly listening to music (80%, vocal / instrumental, no rock) and movie (20%, NetFlix/Youtube). Bought Denon AVR-960H thinking to buy Klipsch 625FA/620FB based system in the beginning. It has 90W per channel @8ohms, 7.2 capable. Usually do not turn up the volume above 50%. Rarely around 70% max. My questions are: Is Denon AVR-960H underpowered to drive RP-8000F II (90W vs. 150W)? Would it downgrade the sound quality for this so I should consider RP-6000F II instead? Is RP-150M good to be used as rear / surround speakers with RP-8000F II? Or should I consider latest models e.g., RP-600M? For center speakers, RP-500C II good enough or would RP-504C II be the one matching RP-8000F II? For subwoofers, considering 2 of them in the long run, what's the difference between R-100SW and R-120SW other than power? If I buy two, will R-100SW work? Thank you so much in advance and happy Thanksgiving! Jason

https://www.audiogon.com/listings/lisb1fc3-klipsch-cornwall-birch-full-range Another dreamer…….

Yes, the shop owner is correct. You will have changed the sound from that intended by the designer (which in this case was @Chief bonehead I think?). As to whether you prefer one or the other, that’s a whole different story and is wholly subjective. You should talk with @Deang about what it would cost to update the crossovers using Klipsch approved parts. He could also probably explain whether the diaphragms are necessary or not.

My 2012 Civic has 40,000 K (less than 25,000 miles) I'm not going to think about spark plugs forever.

Some notes here. The AVR-960H is not 90W all channels driven. I believe it's either 1 or 2 channels only. Most AVR's will not deliver their WPC rating advertised, double check specs. It is 90W x2, at 5 channels it is likely closer to 35-45, and at 7 it is probably closer to 20-30 (it has 500 W total power, which means it can not exceed 70WPC all channels driven, assuming it was doing nothing else but driving speakers - which is not the case). Klipsch speakers do not need much power, but the cleanliness is the deciding issue. Highly recommend an AVR-X series from Denon at minimum - especially for RP series. They will still be under the maximum continuous output of the Klipsch, but you don't necessarily need to meet that figure anyway.

Yes but further in... SPL Calibration Notes If you are using a USB mic with a cal file that contains a sensitivity figure SPL calibration is not required, REW will show this message:.

I have some 40 year old Pickering's that are incredible. 🙂

E crossover - got it. Thank you for pointing me in the right directions.

Levels can be adjusted with the crossover but it is not automatic if that's what you mean.

Sweet!

and if all works out it will go (again) for $400 to a member

Yes shakes photography is one of my loves.

Take them completely apart. Lightly sand the wood with 220 grit. Also sand the black areas. Tape up the sides and spray the black (front and back). Then maybe stain the speakers (I don't like oak). Apply three coats of an oil based urethane, sanding with 600 in between coats and clean with a tack cloth. Wire wheel and paint each screw in semi gloss black. You will also need to make new grills. Might as well replace the capacitors too. Heck, might as well just keep them at this point.

the cheaper version ,is ok for a PA system , but not for HIFI

It's one of the benefits of starting young (built my first speaker at 12). I'm still learning more every day. This hobby is full of positive vibrations (referring to music not woofer cone motion). Music unites us all and crosses all cultural boundaries.

Claude is a funny guy, very talented pro photographer and knows more about speakers than most people will ever know.

I have a single LSi in St Petersburg Fl if you can get it. I think I paid $400 or so, you can have it for that.

It does not make your Body feel such, does it ??

Thanks, so you guys recommend spending the extra money? If it’s noticeably better for $100 more (that’s a no-brainer).

No (though Iridium may work fine for all I know) Found it....they're Ruthenium. I had never heard of that....looked it up and at least it's for real (on the periodic table as I recall) That's what's called for.....(hence the price I'm sure) I don't know if an Iridium version would be considered close enough. Getting 50 mpg's verses the 30+ in the old Toyota (non hybrid), I'll suck it up....but had to pause and at least try to find them for less. Dealer is generally more expensive BUT, so far, haven't found them (haven't done a serious look yet either)

1200

If you want some real no-speed-limit fun, why not check out a track day at Nelson Ledges, the great track in northern Ohio? It has lots of high-speed sweepers and has recently been repaved. It also has a good long back straight and is possibly my favourite track. I raced three 5-Hour endurance races there in the Seventies and two 24-Hours there in the Eighties, as well as some sprint races, and enjoyed every lap, even the ones in the rain and the dark.

I listen to music with a 5.0 system with 6 speakers and find it much better than Stereo.

This might also be a good option…. 99% mineral oil and lemon scented.

While the internet is full of DIY Tube Traps I’ve yet to see any that come remotely close to the real “ASC Tube Traps” … Here is a simulation picture from ASC showing an example of construction details of the “ASC Tube Trap” and also some quoted comments from Art Noxon describing the construction. BELOW: Is quoted from Art Noxon from discussion on another forum where DIY was mentioned” ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I see no reason a person couldn’t build regular style DIY absorption panels with some kind of stand to avoid having to hang them on the walls and for placement flexibility but of course you wouldn’t have the diffusion ability of the “ASC Tube Trap”. I would strongly suggest whatever absorption panel design you choose that a reflective type membrane functioning similar to the ASC be implemented especially if it is for a 2-ch stereo system/setup. miketn🙂

Don’t forget to calibrate the REW SPL Meter for accurate readings…. 🙂

And you get what you pay for usually when it comes to DSP. Our old friend ChrisA always stated he thought the regular miniDSP 2x4 was noisy. YMMV

The 2x4HD has 10x more processing power, USB audio streaming, and a lot more control features. It's the next-generation platform based on XMOS + SHARC DSP. miniDSP 2x4 miniDSP 2x4HD 28/56bit Fixed-point DSP Engine ADSP12489 400MHz Sharc floating-point DSP 24 bit ADC/DAC resolution 24 bit ADC/DAC resolution Unbalanced analog audio inputs switchable with a jumper between 0.9Vrms and 2Vrms Unbalanced analog audio inputs switchable with a jumper between 4Vrms and 2Vrms Digital I/O: I2S in/out Digital I/O: USB audio & Toslink (44.1~192kHz), I2S I/O (not enabled yet) Unbalanced analog audio outputs: Max 0.9Vrms Unbalanced analog audio outputs: Max 2Vrms Plug&Play USB driver and real-time Software configuration using miniDSP plug-ins Plug&Play USB driver and real-time Software configuration using miniDSP plug-ins N/A Asynchronous USB Audio Class 2 Bidirectional streaming with ASIO drivers under Windows, driverless under MAC Osx The device does not require a PC once configured The device does not require a PC once configured Software: miniDSP 2x4 plug-ins Software: miniDSP 2x4 HD1 plug-in Control: Volume control by a potentiometer on a 3pin header Control: IR remote + multicolor LED for preset indication USB self-powered device and wide range of DC power options (4.5 to 24VDC) External single 12V supply (UK/EU/US/AU adaptors provided)

yes , the HD or any Xilica or EV DX38 , keep an eye on Ebay , deals do come up

The Jubilee and room are beautiful together….. 👍🙂 miketn

He said that on the Late Show with David letterman when he was younger. What fact are you referring to? And why do you sound like a lawyer working a trial? If so it's actually funny.

@TheGoodTexanalso, as a new member, you can't send or receive PM until you post 5 items ... so do some more replies in this thread and you will also perhaps receive some answers via PM. Also, with PM you can if you wish offer email address which others can then freely communicate to you. Up to you how far you go with crossover update/upgrade ... spend a little / spend a lot. And welcome to the forum.

I have tried using DSP to address flaws in my listening room and to integrate subwoofers in my system for better bass. My experience may be ill-formed, but ... What I have found is that where and how much one can apply DSP is dependent on the equipment you have and how it is configured. If you don't have a pre-amp or receiver with pre-outs, your ability to tune your system with DSP will be pretty much confined to what your receiver manufacturer provides (e.g., via Audyssey, DIRAC, or YPAO) and integrating subwoofers. Not all systems (even within a the same brand) provide the same capabilities, allow much tailoring by the user, or show what processing is being applied. On the other hand, if you are bi-amping or tri-amping you have the flexibility to bypass the networks in your speakers and do whatever you wish. In my case, I don't have much ability to apply DSP to my mains. My Yamaha R-N803 receiver allows me to turn YPAO on or off and set distances and gain, but that's about it. It doesn't show what it's doing; it operates as a black box. That pretty much restricts my ability to apply DSP to the LFE (i.e., subwoofer) signal. I split the LFE signal and send it to two subwoofers. Although I started with the DSP capabilities provided by the plate amps (SPA250DSP) that power my subwoofers, I found those capabilities to be limited (no ability to set delay, for example) so that I ended up sending the LFE signal to a MiniDSP 2x4HD (which is far more capable) and feeding the the plate amps from it. I've used a measurement microphone (UMIK-1) and REW (Room EQ Wizard) software to assess what DSP to apply and to program the MiniDSP 2x4HD. However, I've not yet achieved results that I find pleasing. Others, such as @wuzzzer, have had much better --- indeed superb --- results. What you need to spend will depend on what you have, the problems you choose to address, and how far you want to go. You're likely looking at >US$400 to get started: the REW software is free (it's funded by donations from users), a UMIK-1 is about US$110, and a MiniDSP 2x4HD is about US$300. I'll look forward to what others with more knowledge and experience have to say.

What? I can’t hear you over the La Scalas! I tried going low wattage to help prevent going deaf. Too loud is my answer. Probably 70db average.

Haha; probably about 60dB's for TV ... close to 100dB's when I turn on my KPT-904's

So you don't drive a car Maybe only a Tesla.

Just like our other upgrade kits, it will have an instruction sheet and can be done with simple tools.

Oh wait, nevermind. You think were all cowboys in Wyoming haha.

No comment here... I just wanted to quote a comment by Roy that was more than 3-words.

Brand new member drops in and Boom! straight to the top. Welcome and enjoy. @andrew11 We need pics when you get'em.

If you obstruct the view any more than the Camaro already is, you'd need an IFR rating to drive it.

I have this old gal in the garage in case I win the lottery . My souvenir of AZ when I lived there from 88 to 90 . 66 Charger , almost stock 67 440 with the one year #915 closed chamber heads .