Sorry for posting in the wrong place. I'm new to this site and relatively inexperienced with posting on forums in general. Should I be posting this as a new topic in the Technical/Restorations forum? Please advise.   As for the trace being covered by C5, you'll note in the picture that C5 has been removed. I assumed that vias were used on the capacitors as they can only be soldered from the bottom of the board because the body of the capacitor covers the through-hole. Since one leg connects to traces on the bottom of the board, it only makes sense that a via was used on the other leg because it had to connect to a top-side trace.  I have studied the top of the board using a magnification hood and bright light source (bright enough to illuminate through the board) and can see no trace. More importantly, I believe this is a two-sided board (as opposed to 3 or more layers). All components are "through hole" types and therefore all components have leads sticking out of the bottom of the board, including those that have connections only to the top of the board (there are no surface-mount components on either side of the board). Since I stupidly removed the vias along with C5, I assumed I probably compromised the connection point on the board. So, I checked C5's compliment, C6 (which was not removed or tampered with), using C6's positive lead (as it connects to a PNP transistor as opposed to the NPN transistor C5 connects to) I can find no other trace, component, or lead attachment point, on the top or bottom of the board that shows a connection to the positive leg of C6. It's like the positive leg of C6 and the negative leg of C5 simply aren't connected to anything, which makes no sense. All of the 38 remaining components are fully connected to other components or traces on the board.   Anyway, I would appreciate your advice as to where I should post this topic.   Thanks!

Good things take time right?    

Gettin ready to ring it in?  Yea, from the couch w/o the hassle, in my jammies!  I got this!                       

I replaced the woofers of my 1973 Klipschorns in the fall @hcnelly . I stayed 1:1 with the original K33 E. But the seal of the brand new woofers is slightly deeper than that of the old K33E. So I bought some longer screws for wood so that they have enough lining. If I were you, I would check that you have enough lining in the wood or in the metal thread if you have metal screws in the La Belle. I had borrowed my original K33E from my 1977 LaScala for the Klipschorn for a transitional period. The LaScala only has four screws. But they are metal screws with metal threads that are embedded in the doghouse. 1973 Klipschorn has only wood screws but eight of them per bass unit. So the length of the screws in the wood or metal threads should be the same as in the old woofer. With the wood screws it is probably more important than with metal threads if one or two turns are missing. And yes, do not tighten with brute force. The woofers have  are stamped sheet metal baskets. I would recommend tightening the woofers with a good feel and repeating the process after two days to see if there is any play.

👍🏽 Thanks

You might be able to use a rotary file or a hand file to make your cuts, then sanding and such.  You can use a VARIAC to slow your tool's speed if you need. For high-speed tool steel (HSS) cutting mild steel needs to stay ~ 72 FPM. Bronze can be cut at a much higher speed: ~ 200 FPM and brass higher than that. (from the Machinery's Handbook many years ago) N= 12 x FPM / Pi x D N = RPM D = Diameter of tool (drill, cutter etc) or workpiece (lathe work etc) Now, put in the numbers for a 1/2" drill bit: N= 12 x 72 / Pi x 0.5  N = 550 RPM        One easy rule to put in your pocket, in your head or tell someone who will remind you: A 1/2" (0.500") HSS drill bit can turned at 500 RPM into mild steel. Double the drill size, cut the speed in half; cut the drill size in half, double your speed. It all comes back to ~ 72 FPM. Just remember 500 = 500 and do any fraction or multiple of that...3/8" = 750 RPM etc.  

This ^^^ If your brother is not chasing the what ifs, then he can rest assured that he has all that he needs. With the new, bigger and better everything, Roy and his team got the CW4 right.  I'd still have to listen to them. 

Totally different woofers and everything else. The CF4 has much larger horns and drivers. The KLF30 is a 3 way TMW vs the CF4 is a two-way WTW arrangement. The KLF30 has been known more as a party speaker and the CF3 and CF4 are known to be in the HiFidelity arena.  I have owned pairs of both and have ABed them. I still have a pair of each and I should AB them again. 

The brass will heat up while cutting with a router and melt the epoxy which melts around 300F. Everything will then get "icky-poo-poo" and you will be very unhappy. JJK

Hi All, I have always been very careful with my Klipsch systems, also with my Klipsch THX 5.1 set. Sadly recently something heavy fell down on my control pod ( the small standing model with orange leds in it ) and bashed the control pod to bits. Luckily I was able to save the print inside and that still works, but the control pod housing is history. I have tried to find one on eBay, no luck. Contacted Klisch themselves, no luck Bought a Ultra pod - only to learn that apparently they are not compatible -, so that's useless. So does *anyone* here have a - even broken - control pod that I can take apart to fix my control pod. All I need is the housing actually.   attached is a picture to clarify which one I am looking for Thanks for any help you can offer