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My Cary CAD 45SE showed up today, Pretty Rare with only 6 pairs ever produced by Dennis Had himself, (you had to call him and ask for a pair by special order) Glowing forr about 1 hour so far and all seems well http://www.positive-feedback.com/Issue28/cad45se.htm

Thank You He did great driving, there were two of us that could have drove but he would rather drive and was doing fine, but I know he was ready to get out the car when it was over. He will drive back to Hope from here today as we will but he will probably have more fun today driving his Camaro. We will be leaving a little later, I already drank coffee, watered the plants on the porch and sprayed for weeds which got out of control in the last week and a half. The car is packed and I will quickly cut a little grass around the house so it looks like we still live here. One good thing is our daughter stays here when we are gone which makes me feel better, never had any problems here but don't want that to start now.

@dtelWelcome home and safe mercies to Hope! Enjoy that coffee! Always nice to stumble in the house after a long trip home. I'm sure Roy looked like a possum staring into a sea of headlights on the Interstate @ 3 AM when he got out of the car. Have fun and we'll see ya all soon!

Having coffee right now, got home at 10 last night after 12 hours in the car, at least I didn't have to drive Roy drove straight through. Leaving in a little while for Hope, hopefully will be back Sunday night. Then I am not going anywhere for a while I hope. Driving from South Florida home was like driving across Texas, it seems like the state is never going to end.

Thanks for the -8 years, there! ('79) Aw shucks. I try, I try. Gotta keep you cads in line every once in a while at the least.

At least give the poor thing a towel on the flaming hot shingles.... Maybe she's into pain

Under the board walk...LOL

View from the other side

My Girl has a built in cappuccino machine, which makes a great cup of coffee. Though we could use the steam attachment, we just use the little whipper instead. Quiter, easier and smoother. Better than steamed, imo. Whip it, with a view.

PRONTO15 15% off up to $100 site wide today (8-8-18) https://pages.ebay.com/promo/2018/0808/67811.html Works for electronics.

I think she's HOTTER then the roof!

Where's the white fish ?

Coney Island Finest!

Whoa, very nice! I assume, an east coast view. Who are we looking at?

@JohnKutheHad that "and let Jimi take over" influence! 😎

Speaker sensitivity is not directly tied to impedance. Impedance is the resistance to current flow. Impedance is DC resistance + AC "resistance" (a simplification) Water makes a great analogy. Voltage is Pressure. Current is flow. Impedance/Resistance is nozzle size. More pressure increases flow through the same nozzle (restriction). Less restriction (Impedance) allows more flow (Current) at the same pressure (Voltage). Ohms law says Current = Voltage/Resistance. I=V/R (V=IxR) Power = Current x Voltage. P=IxV Substituting Ohms law gets P=(VxV)/R (or P=IxIxR) Two speaker have the same sensitivity at one watt (one of the rating standards), but one is 16 ohms and the other is 8. If the same voltage is applied, say 2.83V, the power into 8 ohms is P=(2.83x2.83)/8 = 1 watt. For the other one it is P=(2.83x2.83)/16 = 0.5 watts. Power = I^2xR. 1 watt = I^2 x 8. I^2 = 1 watt/8ohms. I = sqrt(1/8) = 0.354 amps Power = I^2xR. .5 watt = I^2 x 16. I^2 = .5 watt/16ohms. I = sqrt(.5/16) = 0.177 amps Half the amps and half the power into 16 ohms at the same voltage. . Lower impedance "allows" more current (and thus power) at the same voltage. It is linear, so half the impedance doubles the power. This is why car speaker are 4 ohms or less. Battery voltage is limited to ~13V, but it can surge 300 to 400 amps. This relationship is important because power amps want to be voltage sources (a source of voltage with unlimited current capacity). As you turn up the volume knob, you are really turning up the voltage applied to your speakers. So, what happens if you turn up the voltage to 20 volts? Assuming your amp is capable, Power = (20v x 20v)/8 ohms = 50 watts. At 4 ohms it would be 100 watts. However, there is no such thing as a Voltage Source. Nothing, especially power amps, are that linear. One prime reason is that current flow causes heat and heat causes resistance to increase. That heat must also be pulled away from the transistors to keep them from burning up, too. Removing heat takes relatively expensive large heat sinks or even fans. My sub amps are Acurus A250s, rated at 250 wpc into 8 ohms. They test at 300 watts into 8 ohms and 480 into 4 ohms. They are conservatively rated and still don't double their rated output into 4 ohms. Speaker impedance is never a flat curve, but varies wildly sometimes, but the enclosures and crossovers help control the loudness in spite of the variations and modern power amps tolerate that foolishness well, most of the time. One thing to watch in speaker ratings is way it is rated. Is it 1 watt at 1 meter? Or is it 2.83V at 1 meter? 2.83 V is 1 watt into 8 ohms, but it is 2 watts into 4 ohms. Doubling the power increases output 3 dB! FYI, 10x the power is 10 dB, or twice as loud to the ear. https://www.crownaudio.com/en/tools/calculators

Those are great for whipping up half and half when you make an Irish Coffee! Couple of tea spoons of sugar, cold half and half, whip. Heat glass with hot water dump out, one cube of sugar, equal parts Jamison and coffee top with your whipped cream poured over the back of a spoon so it does not mix. NO GREEN CRAP drizzled on top. enjoy, repeat till hang over is gone.

One way to take a cup of coffee up another notch or two, is to Whip it. This is about 2 fingers of 2%, nuked for 30 sec., then whipped and stirred in. Adds body and also a bit more visual appeal, among other things. I have been doing so for years. This particular whip came from Ikea and does the job quite nicely.

An update on these. I never dreamed it would take this long and along the way adding to the mix are variations which then have to be tested. The very latest one and the one I believe will test the best of them all was one I did not know how to make with my CAD design software until a few weeks ago. It is simple things that can trip you up and with software as complex as Solid Edge there are times where you struggle to figure things out. I did not really want to share design data so it was left to slogging through the learning curve to get to a final destination as time permitted. Using a surfacing part of the program called Bluesurf I had been able to generate things like the straight wall elliptrac type lens. I can see why perhaps they stopped there since it is much easier to do design wise. What I wanted was the ability to produce either concave or convex walls and when I finally figured it out it was like a whole new world of possibilities opened up. Claude has been gracious enough to agree to test these things as I have the equipment and software now to do so but no idea how to do it and he does and some great test vehicles to put them in. Rather than put a couple of versions out there I am waiting to see which one is the very best and go with it. It may turn out that some drivers work better with one lens or the other. What my goal is however is to make one that is clearly the best and I think we are there. Testing is ongoing and I figure a week or so more will have the final answers. I am pretty certain this one shown will be it.

It is an unusual market. My brother-in-law recently sold a small home in Birmingham so that he could buy a larger home, in nearby Bloomfield Hills, on a larger lot for less money and with lower property taxes. But enough about location, location, location, our BUNN BXB is no longer looking for a new home. The reduced flow spray-head has solved the problems. Although a bit slower, the coffee is consistently good, it doesn’t require an excessive amount of coffee to water, and, best of all, it doesn’t overwhelm the filter. With the original spray-head, trying to make 8 cups or more would cause the grounds to overflow the filter. I can’t abide grounds in my cup. Now we can brew 10 cups with no problems. Thank you BUNN customer service.

First I've seen & heard of this thread (and reason for it) Nice job and all those accolades....but really..... how heartwarming! Kudos to you.

Then the back of each plate is sanded again with 100 grit to remove any burrs from the holes followed by sanding the face with 150 grit using the random orbit sander to prepare the surface for the application of the "resist" for the etching phase of the process. Here is what the plate looks like after sanding. Make sure you remove ALL of the layout marks with the sander as they will act as a resist and you'll have extra lines in the etch....

This is the tool of choice for cutting any hole that isn't round. I've found that Olson 15 TPI blades work best, and at very low speed (strokes per minute)..... this takes forever, but no other method I've tried works as well. Note: It is far easier to cut aluminum "on-the-flat" with a scroll saw than it is to cut a curve. In the photo you can see that I have drilled a 3/16" hole in each corner of the IEC connector cut-out to allow for only flat cuts. Final clean-up of the square cuts are done with files.

I physically layout all of the dimensions and drilling locations from my "blueprint" to the plates with a mechanical pencil, clear 18" ruler and machinists square. After the layout is complete for each plate, I use a spring-loaded marking tool to create a dimple at each drill point for the bit to start from. This is very important as it prevents the bit from "walking" off the desired drilling location. Using one of my two drill-presses, I mill each hole accordingly (note: DO NOT USE ANY CUTTING FLUID AS IT WILL DISALLOW THE "RESIST" FROM ADHERING TO THE PLATES FOR THE ETCHING PROCESS). Go slowly, wear hearing protection. I use titanium nitride coated twist drills, step-bits, and hole-saws to mill the aluminum. Chamfered counter-sinks are done using carbide end-mills mounted in the drill press.

Here are all of the plates necessary to build Scott's amp. The top and bottom plates are cut oversize by 1/8" to allow precise fitting to the wood base (you'll see how this is done later). I use 100 grit loop-back sandpaper discs mounted in my trusty DeWalt random-orbit sander for all of the initial sanding (including the deburring of the plates between cuts).

Iphone shot along Chicago river.

Another way of saying it would be to say that it's when you've exceeded the rated power output of the amplifier - and the amplifier "clips", or chops off the top and bottom of the waveform because it cannot reproduce it. Basically, you're out of power, and you're running into distortion. If you normally run at a watt, you need five watts to cover the peaks. If you run at 50, you need 250 watts. Ironically, most loudspeakers are damaged from not having enough power as opposed to having too much power. A low powered amplifier, overdriven, will destroy a driver in seconds.

I purchased the RR2160 several months ago because my Vintage SX-1250 was in the shop and I had also been hearing and reading good things about it. I have been amazed how good it sounds with both the Cornwalls I had at the time and the Forte III's I'm now using with it. Great sounding DAC and Phono Stage to my ears. I also like the look which others quibble about. The 1250 is back, but the Outlaw is still in use-though I have more than one system going. With their return policy it is easy to try out.

Thanks everybody for your comments

For clarifies sake, I’m going to explain the exact config of my Super Heresy 1.5’s. IMHO, if you have 1.5’s this is what should be done. Move tried virtually every possible config. This sounds best, both via measurements and my ear holes. ok. Your parts list will be as follows: 4 x’s 2uf Poly Film Caps. (I used Dayton 5%. I’ve used more expensive in the past, and see no reason anymore. The Daytona are great and sound NO different to me than audyns, solens, etc. I’m not cheap either, if it’s worth it I’ll spend it in a second. Put the money elsewhere. Imo) 2 x’s 33uf PolyFilm 5% Dayton Caps 2 4 inch ports 2 packs acoustic eggcrate foam from Amazon. You’ll only need 1 and 1/2. So you’ll have some extra for other projects! 2 Emince Delta Pro 12a woofers 2 B&C DE120 super tweeters 2 new tweeter horn lenses. My choice are the ones I have pictured from@Dave A ****In the near future it may be better to use the new neodymium Magnet woofer @cluadej1 has his eye on. i also recommend cutting a new back panel from thicker Baltic birch ply. I used 3/4in. Painted black. this does a few things. First, saves the original backs and serial number labels. It also strengthens the cabinet. But you don’t have too. FYI, a 2 x 4 piece of Baltic birch is like $18 at the Depot! You’ll have a bit to spare even. also, match the polarity of the Mids to the Tweets. Then it’s as easy as, cut the hole for the port, install it, transfer over the speaker terminals(I upgraded them) Solder in the new caps, it’s an even swap. NO CHANGES, just refresh with modern caps. An improvement was heard just doing that, with no changes. Bolt your nice new Woofer in. Using 8 bolts, not 4. The Delta is like 20lbs heavier. Solder and Mount the tweeter. listen to music and enjoy! It can easily be done in an afternoon with this recipe all laid out. Dont forget to mount the port in a corner, as it will interfere with the woofer magnet in the middle. It will basically block the port. Placement is up to each persons room limitations and choice. However after extensive real room testing. On the floor on original angled risers gives the fullest, smoothest sound. As @ClaudeJ1 has said, Bass is easily adjusted by moving the speakers in or out from the corners a bit. Well, hope this clears it up. Let me know if I can help with anything.

A solid state amp has a very low output impedance (high damping factor) - a tube amp doesn’t. With a tube amp, you want to match the nominal impedance of the loudspeaker to the corresponding output tap from the output transformer. If you know the low frequencies are hovering in that 4-6 ohm area, moving to the four ohm tap will improve the sound of the bass (improved damping). However, there is a cost - you will sacrifice a bit of your amplifier’s output. “There is no free lunch.” - DJK

From NASA, it comes down to funding. The videos at bottom should answer anyone's questions on this. "The NEO Observations Program operated on a budget of a few million dollars per year from fiscal year 1998 through fiscal year 2010, at which point the program budget was about $4 million. In April 2010, the President announced a new goal for NASA: a human mission to an asteroid. Consequently, the President requested, and Congress authorized in 2012, $20.4 million for an expanded NASA NEO Observations Program. The Program was again expanded in fiscal year 2014, with a budget of $40 million and again in 2016 to $50 million. Current activities The NEO Observations Program supports multiple detection and tracking campaigns using ground-based optical telescopes and the space-based NEOWISE mission; follow-up surveys; NEO characterization efforts; radar imaging of NEOs; data processing, analysis and management centers; technology development projects; and studies of techniques for impact mitigation. These projects are being conducted by NASA centers, other federal agencies, federally funded research and development centers, space science institutes, university researchers, and private citizens. NASA’s Office of Safety and Mission Assurance maintains a Meteoroid Environment Office. Meteoroids are small remnants of asteroids and comets. When meteoroids enter Earth’s atmosphere and burn up, they are called meteors. This office, based at NASA’s Marshall Space Flight Center, monitors the meteoroid environment and provides meteor shower forecasts to NASA spacecraft operators. The Planetary Society’s 5 Step Plan to Prevent Asteroid Impact Our colleagues at the Planetary Society have produced a special series of videos within their Random Space Fact series to educate the public on planetary defense. What is Planetary Defense?(An Intro) How Do We Find Asteroids?(Part 1) How Do We Know If An Asteroid is Going to Hit Earth? (Part 2) How Do We Characterize Asteroids? (Part 3) How to Deflect an Asteroid(Part 4) How to Save the World from Asteroids Together (Part 5)

That was Arte Johnson.

Ok, I did it. In a moment of weakness I just bought a Decware Torii II. Couldn't resist........... Shakey

Completed cut-out....

Awesome, another member with solid credentials. I only pretend sometimes that I know what I am talking about. Bill

Amen !! Yep don't ask a machine or anything else to put out 90% + and you might not be disappointed with it. Had one low powered 40 wpc continuous rms Nakamichi the I could put at 3 to 4 pm on the pot all day long and it never clipped. Never had anything else I ran close to 2:00. Then again Nelson Pass designed that one. I'm getting plenty of db at high noon on the current rig although I put it to 1:00 briefly before.

Well of course 275RMS is higher than 140. Plenty of headroom for your RF-82s and RC-62. Your front speakers will never(rarely if ever) see anywhere near 275w/ch even with peaks. Bill

I like the cat idea.

Ha, this was the first pair of La Scala IIs I have seen in real-life (in that room a few months back). They are gorgeous. I love Crutchfield and the Harrisonburg store in particular is incredibly helpful. Spent many paychecks there. I will say, that room is about the size of a laundry room, and I can’t imagine they are doing those La Scalas any justice in there. I did ask to hear them, but at the time I was there the sales associate could not get the streamer to work and he was unable to get them to produce any sound. I ended up getting my La Scala IIs here in Roanoke, because I was able to basically buy them and have them delivered in-home and set up locally on the same afternoon... It would have been quite a wait to have them bought and shipped from Crutchfield, and being shipped by UPS Freight, they would have been dumped in my driveway (like the SB-16 Ultra I just bought from C-field Harrisonburg, ugh what a beast). I have been told from several Klipsch Heritage dealers that they are now required by Klipsch to have a pair of at least one of the larger Heritage models (LS IIs, Cornwall IIIs, etc) on display. Crutchfield in Charlottesville has the Cornwall IIIs on display I believe. Good idea from Klipsch, I think, as it was actually being able to hear the LS IIs that led me to buying them.

Gotta keep a cool tool or something like that...

Saw this and had to chuckle a bit!

My Nemesis, the elusive Kingfisher.

She needs to stop by more....she classes up the place!

Excepting Mangofirst, I would've guessed us all older than that.

Great looking system and room. Does anyone beside me think the the speakers could be spread a bit further apart.

As mentioned before in the thread, there are LOTs more Heritage dealers than just the "certified" dealers. And many more Certified dealers will be showing up on that locator soon. We are just waiting on them to fully complete the certification process. When in doubt, call your local Klipsch dealer and ask if they carry any Heritage products, and if not, why not?