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Klipsch Pro Audio

Talk about our Pro Audio and Cinema products here.

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  1. KPT 456 Horn

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  2. CP-1's In The House

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  3. Klipsch KP 301ii fuses 1 2

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  4. Kp-201 pricing?

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  5. K402 Mold Slag

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  6. Used 402/510 w/ drivers value? 1 2

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  7. KP-450 specs

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  8. KI-362 Value?

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  9. KP-260

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  • Recent Posts

    • The art deco flair in the schematic you've drawn is awesome.   I use a pair of 6AU4GTA half-wave damper diodes in full-wave for a 2A3 SET amp of mine.
    • I am glad for you believing what you say but no amount of words is going to change my opinion anymore than me changing yours. I opened up a vintage Kenwood KT7500 tuner this morning and low and behold some of those awful zip ties degrading the sound. All the electronic engineers, designers, and builders should know better but they are still being used to this day. I have no more to say on this subject except enough has been said and this thread should be closed. IMHO that is. 
    • I love to hear their top-of-the-line "Reference" line, with the Radialstrahler" loudspeakers. So nice to hear. !   Fantastic listening experience.
    • Another thing I forgot to mention was that because of the tighter bass coming out of my speakers from the Vidar, it's like I got new subs. The subwoofer integration is even better than it was and it was seamless to begin with. I don't think I'll ever go without horn loaded subs. Wonder when Schiit is gonna come out with one? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    • Separating of wires only is important in high end , high performance products.    About 97 percent of the gear I see used by people into audio, does not fit in that category.    Henry's assertion about safety is totally naive - and it is a phony red herring.    The typical audio piece will be just as safe without the tie wraps.  Ninety nine percent of the wires used in average commercial equipment, has a insulated covering or sheathing over it,  rated at higher-than-the-voltage carried, to prevent shorting.   The Manufacturer chooses such insulated wire.   You do hear the effects of tie wrap bundling in a high-end system implementation.   You do not hear it in middle-of-the-road audio systems.    I am not addressing and suggesting Forum members cut their tie wraps, on a wholesale basis.  Not at all.   If you cut your tie wraps, and hear nada, it should tell you something !!  You own a middle-of-the-road system , and a system implementation problem if you were actually seeking maximum fidelity.    Its really pretty simple.  There is only one Member who I personally singled out, and encouraged him to cut out tie wraps and gently separate the wires. That was Schu, with his NBS phono premap, and zillion dollar DUELAND coupling caps he added.  I am hoping the rest of his system is resolving enough, set-up properly optimized, carefully implemented, so that he will possibly hear the change, and report back to us.    For everyone's general information, I find that wires in good equipment generally sound better with no insulation what-so-ever on them.      The degree of better is a function of how good the overall system is implemented.   I once put a piece of heatshrink on a Dynamicap lead, and the entire audio system turned to mud - to crap.  The cap's leads was designed and voiced by Richard Marsh,  and Reliable Capacitor, to be used bare !!!      In my DIY amps, I use silver wire in the key spots, and it is always bare !!    (1) From my RCA jack, to the grid of the Input tube, is bare silver, two inches long approximately.  (2) From the plate of my Input tube, to the control grid of my Output tube ( the Direct Couple ) is always two or three bare runs of paralleled silver wire, about three inches long. It typically has about 185 VDC on it, and I know not to touch it when poking around with the unit turned on.  (3) The main cathode resistor film bypass caps, ( that I am connecting later today in the new 6005 amp ), will have two bare, silver content, 19 AWG wires, leading from the Pin of the tube socket, ther cathode Pin, into the cap.  These bypass film caps' grounds however, will all be 14 AWG m22759/11, with a teflon outer covering.  You have to get the cathode resistor's audio signal into the cap, so the silver and signal continuity is most important on the input to the cap, not it's ground.   Will an E.E. realize and do that ??  LOL, I personally think - hardly ever !!    When my system is set up properly, I can hear a degrade in fidelity, when the positive and negative speaker wire polarities touch each other one time, between the amplifier and the drivers.  ( I carefully try not have polarities touch in that span. )    When I ripped part my Fulton Interconnect, where the left and right channels were both "moulded" to a common thin ground wire in the center, and separated the channels from being in close contact, I picked up performance !!!  Subtle, but none the less audible...to anyone in my living room .   Most of these subtleties will be masked and lost, in a system that is typically used in audio playback.  So, we have a little disconnect.   I have no reason to make up stories.  I am a private party,  DIYer, not in the audio business.    Jeff Medwin    
    • When I'm not running it with a tube preamp, I'm using it with a Schiit Saga. It's a passive preamp with the option of a tube buffer. I tend to prefer the tube buffer. I'd say that the tube influence is comparable to my tube cd player and my tube DAC. Just enough tube action to keep me hooked and yes, rolling tubes does change the sound. I have two systems in my house. One is high powered for rocking out and the other is low powered more for critical listening. The Vidar is in the low powered system and works great for that. It can't compete with 500 watt Crown amps. They are animals...the Vidar is not. It is tight, accurate and smooth. Sophisticated at low volumes and that's why I like it for my needs. So today I finally cranked it up with the Saga passive preamp. Very disappointing. Got nuthin'.......but that was to be expected. Like I said, that combo at low volumes is where it shines and it's sole purpose in my situation. Then I paired a fully restored Marantz 3300 with the Vidar. Now we're talking. I didn't try to see how loud it could go but it did 100db comfortably. Not really the balzy sound I was expecting from the Marantz. Much more refined. There was a good synergy there. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    • Tubes have heaters in them, that's the glow you see. A tube functions better after it's warmed up. 5 minutes or so is all it takes, though many people say tubes sound better after an hour of playing. I think that way also, but I wonder if it's just my brain getting used to the tubes sound.  Every amp is a little different, and you'll soon discover what warm up period your amp likes.
    • even not with the Firefox browser .....
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