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Can't believe I did this one... I, like I suppose many here, have been tinkering on my cars for (in my case) about 42 years. If we go back to minibikes, dirtbikes and taking care of mowers... maybe pushing 50 years. Tune ups, brake jobs, timing chains, valve jobs total engine/transmission disassembly (on the dirt bikes).... you get the idea. Today, I still do all my fixing, along with taking care of my industrial backhoe that I've now owned for nearing 20 years. (bad thing with the hoe is the tools get larger, parts get heavier (and much harder to procure) and of course... the cost goes up quickly) Something has been amiss in the electrical system ....really, ever since I bought the machine. Alternator checks out just fine but over time (perhaps because of low usage) the batteries (plural since it's happened over the time of ownership with various batteries) the batteries just lose their ability to hold a charge and crank the engine over. Bummer too because with a fresh battery, the engine starts in what seems to be about a 3/4 of a single revolution... it really starts "right now" when it's fed good power. (Perkins diesel) Long prelude to give some background to my stupidity alert... by the way.... if anyone cares to chime in with your own stupidity you are welcome to or, if you wish, you can pile up on me... I can take it....and frankly, deserve it. So I've created the habit of jump starting the machine. I've done it over the years, dozens and dozens and dozens of time.... Other day, pull car, check terminals... put cables on. Put cables on other end and find an interesting splash of sparks. What the ...??? Look at my connections and everything is fine. Machine fired right up (which in hindsight frankly, confuses me a bit) 2-days later, wife wanted some mulch mobilized so went to put it into front bucket....had to jump start machine. Check cables... put on.... another splash of sparks??? What the heck? Look at cables and again, all is fine. Put cables on.... and the car slowly dies. ??? Not once but TWICE I stood there looking at the ground wire and connected the hot to it, cross wiring the cables from the car battery to the hoe battery. Twice.... let that sink in. Twice AFTER the sparks. Twice, AFTER I looked at them to make sure everything was ok. TWICE Such a dumbazz.... Anyone got a tube amp you want me to tinker with after this story...I'm feeling lucky!!!!????

Playing a collaboration album from 2 prog / jazz fusion artists Neal Schon & Jan Hammer rip this album apart in this release of great tracks Artist - Schon & Hammer Album - Here To Stay 

I used to have a disconnect. I figure once I get the battery charged, I may as well do everything I can do to keep them that way. Over time, the one I had fell apart. Glad you weren't hurt when your battery exploded. I've never witnessed one of these events, don't care that I ever do. I'd like to get one of those solar powered battery minders....but....keep forgetting about it

I have seen these used before, they work because they seperate whatever is shorting the battery to cause it to drain down, I have seen them used on many boats also. That and a trickle charger should fix the problem.

True, for home use it's the prefered driver, unless you plan on running hundreds of watts, but I wouldn't recommend that anyway for health reasons.

I am trying to convince my wife the LaScalas I bought are a pair of heavy as tables, that make sound ... I don't think she is buying it

we all have one thing in common ... our favorite musical instrument is the stereo

You do realize this thread is 17 years old? Yikes.

...unless....he's got kidney stones....

And you've got to remember.. these are in a wedge shape with rubber feet on both a side and bottom surface, along with a built in pole mount in the bottom.. they're meant to be vertical as portable PA speakers or horizontal as stage monitors for performers, and certainly do their job well in either config.

99% of the time I'm watching shows or movies by myself or with my wife in the MLP. I notice off-axis content from this speaker isn't as good as when I'm sitting in the MLP, but it's still very listenable and dialogue is clear. Very rarely do we watch anything with a group of people, though, so I really don't care about off-axis performance.

Of course.

Titanium spike?

OK; maybe a bit "off topic," but was wondering about these horns "sideways," i.e turned 90 degrees. @Thaddeus Smith has "his" turned sideways Obviously the sound field becomes "tall" and less "wide" horizontally. Any problems with that ... no clue on sound field angles / dispersion coming from these horns. Major reason for asking is that I just picked up a set of Heresy's and really have "no room" left. But they would fit on top of my KPT-904 bass bins - NEXT to my K510 horns if I turn those 90 degrees Cheers, Emile

It all depends on WHEN the speakers were made. Early on, Heresys, Cornwall, LaScala, and Klipschorn speakers were made out of marine-grade fir plywood, if they were "decorators". But the finely-veneered speakers used poplar lumber core plywood, the same stuff used in most large panel furniture of the time. Then they went to 7-ply (5 core plys with two veneer plys) custom-made "void-free" birch plywood for the decorator series into the birch raw series of speaker styles. In the latter part of the 1970's Klipsch got a real "deal" on some Baltic birch plywood bundles...in various sizes and thicknesses. They immediately looked for ways to utilize this stuff, and the first thing to get Baltic biirch used in it was the Klipschorn bass bin, where the 1/2" fir marine-grade plywood was replaced with the 9-ply Baltic birch in approximately 1/2" thicknesses. Most of the formerly used 1/2" fir marine grade plywood panels used in the construction of the K-horn bass bin were replaced by this Baltic birch, which stiffened up the bass bin cabinet immensely, in addition to making the job of keeping things "square" in its assembly process a much easier endeavor. Baltic birch plywood's biggest problem from a production point of view is its density and the multiple layers of urea-formaldehyde glue used in it. This causes it to require redesign of some assembly details in order to utilize it. For example(s), staples and finish nail guns are pretty much not gonna be able to penetrate and have to be replaced with other types of fasteners, AND the wear and tear on cutting edges, such as router bits, and saw blades is drastically increased, when using Baltic birch....sometimes to the point of creating more dangerous working conditions, as when the brazed-in edge of an industrial router bit explodes out of the bit in pieces ...or if one of the brazed-in saw teeth comes flying out while using a table saw. So if the construction process goes from using staples and/or finishing nails from pneumatic guns, to having to pre-drill holes in order to use wood screws, then you have increased the production costs in both materiel AND labor hours involved.

Yeah ... very very impressed Way better than I expected

OK thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Of course, it’s what I do... *<;o)

I have P37's and P38's, I'd only sell the 37's to get 39's, but probably not worth the effort of trading.

It is not, it is a class AB. Why is Class D a must? Bill

Looks like everyone ran out of coffee and fell asleep, plus it's the weekend, to much pressure for old guys.

Nice looking amp.

I've had my moments too. You know that I have a hoe, just like yours. My backhoe, like yours, has the same battery problem. Like yours, mine will start just as soon as the starter is hit..as long as the battery is charged. I have the hood off of mine, so the battery is right there, easy to get to in front of the steering wheel. Story time: One time the battery was low so it cranked slowly and didn't start right, it just made a few revs lugging the starter motor. The battery terminal was not tight enough and lost its connection. I bent over the front to twist the cable while holding the key to the start position. The battery blew up in my...I don't mean it popped the caps off or blew part of the top off...it blew up like I have never seen one explode before. It hurt, badly. I have a bad habit of wearing safety glasses and ear plugs while I'm working. If I didn't have the safety glasses on, I have no doubt that I would be blind, unemployed, poor and in some type of assisted living. I put something like one of these on and it stopped the battery problem

Very exciting sounding isn't it!! Anyway here is the deal. The cabinets are painted black have the grilles and no badges. No components. I don't remember offhand but I think three maybe four K-42-KP's pulled bad from KP-262's and I never found anyone to re-cone them so they were replaced with Eminence woofers. I have no idea if the K-42-KP's are worth fooling with but if you want them here they are. I am not willing to ship and go through all that mess but if you are close enough to southern middle Tennessee to drive to get them they are yours. Bonus is you get to play in my speaker pile and listen to things you may not have heard before.

I rationalized the loss by saving but it was Silver 🤔

Yes, in Hope. The building directly across the street from the factory.

It's still there. Saw it 2 weeks ago.

Get you one of those desulfing trickle chargers for the hoe and quit the jump starting. https://www.ebay.com/itm/BatteryMINDer-Model-1510-12-Volt-1-5-Amp-Charger-Maintainer-Desulfator-1510/222818581066?epid=1140168408&amp;hash=item33e105ba4a:g:fdUAAOSwRTVacjsf

Don't be confused.... Peter has been doing it for a while..

So @Shakeydeal is the deal done? It occurred to me, adjusted for inflation, I paid more for a pair of Bose 901s in 1974. This is a MUCH better audio value than 901s, which have probably had the foam surrounds rot away at least twice in the intervening decades. I agree with Dave, @wvu80, please start a thread dedicated to this blessed event.

I was planning on locating an Anthem dealer near me to see it in action, but this video really helped. It might be a little more technical than I would have liked, but I think I've got someone that can give me a hand with that.

We're having a discussion, not an argument as far as I'm concerned. That's how I learn. I enjoy the conversation.

No matter how they are attached there should be safety cables also. It sucks, but that's the way it is.

NUTTIN better than a B-3 and Leslie!!!

It just keeps getting more surreal...

After putting up with large speakers for an extended period of time they tend to wise up quicker than we would hope. Was worth a shot on that one.

Dude, I’m broke - but I have a really nice pair of heavily modified LaScalas that can totally light up a room in the smoothest kind of way.

Oldtimer you are like Vasubandu on steroids and a fine example of why to much time online is not good. There is life outside the forums. I will only say this once but I see your moniker I am thinking The Irrelevant and get a life.

First to go there loses. Violative behavior as stated in the new newest terms. Dirt, you know I luv ya man, or we couldn't have exchanges like this.

Tip-toe guys, you might be violatin'

Then step up to the plate ...

Worst logic ever. Born in Switzerland, owned by Swiss but you say therefore german. You are born in USA but simply call yourself Italian and as an individual, own yourself---in the USA where you were born. Dude, you can (I think) do better than that. What instrument do you play again?

Therefore Thorens is German.. You answered your own contradiction...

Did you flip around and check ?

One may be able to time align the tweeter/midrange for one listening position only. However, the tweeter is being moved farther from the midrange driver. This will affect polars in the crossover overlap region more than if the tweeter was left in the stock position. What happens if the measurement mic is moved just 1 inch vertically? The measured phase will be different. Time alignment will work much better on a coaxial or unity horn arrangement or, if the listener to source distance is greater than in the typical home, in the case of a system with stacked drivers.

Let me provide a heretical perspective since I am not fully convinced that the crossover from the mid-range to the tweeter deserves this much attention. Yes, we can say "everything is important" but that ignores there reality that some things are very important and other things less so. My feeling is that the transition from the woofer to the mid-range is important and should be done with care and attention. On the other hand CW 3's are new and cost several thousand dollars. Right now folks are suggesting to yank the tweeter out of the cabinet and place it on top (any WAF has just gone out the window) and this will achieve time alignment (which may only show a rather modest benefit). Is it worth it, or are there other areas you should spend your time and energy on? Let me propose a demonstration. Listen to some favorite music at a given level. Now, disconnect the mid-range and woofer so that you are now only listening to the tweeter output (do not change the volume control). Yes, you will hear something, but not much. Compared to the woofer and especially the mid-range, the tweeter contributes very little energy. Now settle down ... I did not say that the tweeter contributes nothing nor did I say that the tweeter is not critical for a sense of "air" and "crispness". What I am saying is that compared to all the that the woofer and mid-range provide, the tweeter has a relatively minor contribution. Try the demo and see. After that try and convince yourself, and your significant other, that dismantling a set of speakers that cost you several thousand makes any sense. Some suggestions have been made previously that you might want to try an equalizer or electronic crossover if you need to to tweak. Not a bad idea. Personally, I would first spend some time and systematically try some different speaker placement options (closeness to a corner or back wall, distance, toe-in etc). Heck, that won't cost you a dime. In either case, good luck, -Tom Please, before you accuse me of being an idiot, please try the suggested demonstration first. It can give some perspective that might change some of your priorities.

So here's the latest curve from my sweet spot from the recently acquired Jubilee Clones. It's a lot of back and forth with 2 laptops, 2 mikes, etc. But I got it to sound really good. I'm sure there will be more tweaks over time, but it's VERY revealing of recordings. No subwoofer required with a 15 db bass boost at 32 hz. It takes about 35 times the power at that frequency, which means about 3 1/2 watts, so no distortion that I can hear. I used 1/3 octave smoothing because it's supposed to be close to how we hear. The treble is still a little bit hot above 1 Khz. so I way drop it another db or so in the Xilica Xover.

Picked up a 2018 Challenger today Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have been looking for a while Hopefully picking up a pair of Heresy I's later this week

-- small world, smaller country ?!