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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/15/20 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. +1 on the Sansui. Using a Sansui AU7700 as a pre for an updated Sansui BA2000 for the MCM. Have other Sansui going with other systems.
    3 points
  3. A band I wouldn't have given the time of day because I didn't care for there name, but I watched them on Youtube and learned of their involvement with our troops, our veterans and donating the proceeds of one of their vids to the Gary Sinise Foundation for first responders.
    3 points
  4. Yup the physical impact of the La Scala was better but the fidelity of the CW4 was stellar. If I had to choose between the two the CW4 would easily win.
    3 points
  5. 3 points
  6. Thanks @jimjimbo Unfortunately I have been informed that More speakers = my death. Or worse.
    2 points
  7. My first hi fidelity stereo was Sansui separates back in like 1975. AU-7700 was my integrated amp. My tuner was TU-5500 maybe? The Sansui separates were amazing back then, and still sought out and prized by many even today. A couple years later I was driving a Peavey CS-800 professional amp off the Sansui AU-7700 pre amp outputs. To Peavey SP-1 loudspeakers in my LR 400 watts per channel with these little red clipping indicator lights. The Peavey amp weighed like 75 lbs alone. Fighting acoustic feedback to my Sony turntable was the biggest culprit. Used to close the plastic dust cover and put pillows on and around the turntable, on the floor. We were young and foolish, and smoking reefer madness.
    2 points
  8. My modest cinema room, put together with many years of savings
    2 points
  9. I want to share my experiences, many amps came to my room and after a while they went ..... only Sansui remained.
    2 points
  10. I plan on being there.
    2 points
  11. All sold Rf83s Rc62 Rs42s RW12D sub pair $1000 for complete 5.2 surround. Rotel RMB985 MkII $200 Marantz amps Ma500 pair $200 Ma700 pair $400 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    2 points
  12. Wednesday-Friday discount as I have a rare free weekend so hoping to pack it up now not later. Side note USAudiomart buyers are idiots $2,200 local pick up, $2,350 shipped Lower 48 states. 2 or 3 very heavy boxes if shipping is less than 150 I'll refund you the difference if it is more I'll eat it. I just shipped 2 amps and a preamp to N.C. and it was over $70, insured.
    2 points
  13. I own a PL Evo 400 Integrated and I am totally blown away by how good it sounds in my system. Worth every penny I paid for it and then some. I have found my forever Amp.
    2 points
  14. Now I’m waiting for the hookup/wiring genie to appear! I hate wires but I love my music much more!
    2 points
  15. Youtube introduced me to these talented musicians.
    2 points
  16. Surprising that you would say to run your speakers as "Small" with a sub. Why buy a $6600.00 K-horn to run it as a small? JJK
    2 points
  17. As I build a lot of DIY with high end parts, I don't see anything there that would make me think he is trying to recoup parts cost for that price. Additionally you can state exaggerated sound claims but don't state bogus specs. That just points out that you are looking to dump the items onto someone who is not knowledgeable in the subject.
    2 points
  18. If your cable runs are many meters then balanced is surely the way to go. 1 or 2 meters with your gear, you might discern a difference. Worth an extra couple hundred dollars? For me, no.
    2 points
  19. Yes, at low volume, the two hypothetical amps should sound the same, providing they are equal in other ways. Amplifier power is not the salient variable at low volume. A conservative guess is that your 95 watts per channel AVR should push your main (right front and left front) speakers to about 107 dB peak at about 12-13 feet away in a typical room. Since the standard peak of peaks ("full scale") that Dolby, THX, SMPTE, AES, and the other royalty of the cinema world expect you to provide to your main speakers is 105 dB, you are probably O.K. ... BUT, if you have all of your channels, including surrounds, pumping away at full tilt, your AVR probably cannot deliver 95 watts to each of your channels. Few, if any, manufacturers specify their AVRs with all channels operating, which they really should do. IMO, though, you should be able to squeak by, since you have a couple of dB to spare. Your canter channel speaker may or may not need more power, because it may or may not be of lower sensitivity. SVS rates it at a sensitivity of 86 dB/2.83v/1meter in "full space." AES assumes they rate it 1/2 space (backed against a large flat surface) so I'm guessing that would provide another 3 dB of sensitivity, making it really 89dB/2.83v/1m. Klipsch rates your main speakers at 98 db/2.83v/1m in a typical listening room, which translates to 94 dB/2.83v/1m in 1/2 space (according to a Klipsch engineer). That's the figure I used to calculate your available Sound Pressure Level (SPL or volume). If your listening room is neither dead nor live acoustically, that probably provides you with a fudge factor of 4 dB. Your subwoofer is another matter -- do you have one? You really should. Almost all of them (name brands) are self powered with an appropriate sized amplifier built in. The overlords of cinema feel that your sub should be able to hit 115 dB SPL. Run all of your main speakers as "SMALL" to avoid multipath distortion; this will also give you more "headroom" -- spare power from your AVR -- since there won't be a demand put on it for deep bass, which is power hungry. A speaker's "power rating" (in your case, 150 RMS for RF 82 IIs) is not very useful. The idea that your amp should be more powerful than the "power rating" of your speakers is just a rule of the thumb (not quite as hideous as the origin of that term). Paul Klipsch was once asked what it meant; he replied, "Probably not much."
    2 points
  20. I have plenty of bait. Besides he needs to get my future build double horn lens replacement for those delicate K-77's he has sitting up there.
    2 points
  21. That's a fact. My MCM are in a ~ 20' x 24' room. I might peak at 1/2 a watt when I am busy and want to hear it. 1 full watt and I am rocking pretty good. 10 watts RMS peaking at whatever it might be is as loud as a rock concert. I have never turned anything that I own all the way to 10, and mine go to 11. FACT ^ It was too funny to see my name on the front of your daughter's car. Please tell her thanks again for giving me the dealer's plate.
    2 points
  22. Mine varies with the circumstances but I've been on Weekend Standard Time for a while. Jeans, boots & t-shirts, don't give me no lip!
    2 points
  23. In addition, I thing we should get a running list together of speakers and equipment that will be there. The list is getting long and I'm not 100% sure of all the gear and what might be needed. Maybe a list on the same post of the attendee list that can be updated. Open to suggestions, unless they are from Jim.
    2 points
  24. ^^^ Wrong. aOSU would’ve been curb stomped by LSU.
    2 points
  25. I asked this on another forum also. There were a lot of great ones so I thought I would ask here.
    1 point
  26. Bel sistema Roby. chiaramente sei un amante dei cani .... questo è tutto quello che devo sapere Sapevo che mi piaci quando sei entrato nel forum. solo una risposta viscerale. Forse perché sei italiano.
    1 point
  27. These amps bring home with 500 euros used, and will never change again
    1 point
  28. Who cares about speakers at that point?
    1 point
  29. Not true. Both my new Yamaha and older Sony AVR receivers will allow you to run the mains in large and have a sub output. Mains full range + sub output. Then use sub amp panel low pass setting for sub cutoff frequency. Yamaha rx-v685 and a Sony STR DH 520. The Sony is seven years old. Now you can set the mains to small and set a XO point in the AVR software, but my point is you don't have to set mains to small to get a sub output signal from the receiver.
    1 point
  30. Kinf of like this ebay seller and his take on the Heresy speakers? Seems to be still working on his first sale. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Way-Klipsch-K-55V-K-77M-Heresy-Belle-M-K-woofer-Jantenz-Zcaps-5-5-extensions/324029769227?hash=item4b71ade60b:g:fuYAAOSw-uddyOau
    1 point
  31. Think I understand where they're coming from now. That "Wrong Side of Heaven" is powerful, moving and way more meaningful than what I was expecting this morning. Literally the opposite of what made me turn off the boob-tube a while ago. Thanks & "Rock On" brother! *Those kids are freakin' great!
    1 point
  32. Got coffee made and got to it before 6:30 this morning. Did some of the chores, put the tv on the news sat down with my mug....... BULLSHIT! Can't listen to those opinions.. home-roku-off, receiver-off and in here when I can look at the news without the freaking ads or listening to those clowns I don't want to hear(satisfied smiley) Started with: moved on to: Then: Don't know that I've ever heard another Kenny Wayne tune but this one was still stuck in my head from twenty years ago... nice!
    1 point
  33. I had the 6504's installed in a wall for several years as the rear channels for a 7.1 system. I then needed to replace my main speakers and not having much money laying around I decided to try converting the 6504's into main speakers. I wasn't expecting much but wow, what a nice set of speakers. Put in the right enclosure they can easily compete with more expensive mains after listening to several. I think the reason is because a lot of effort is put into providing deep bass for the mains. This is not easy to do and they compromise on the mid range and tweeter. But I read some articles touting that no matter what mains you have, you should always cross them over at 80 hz with the sub woofer to do all the heavy work. Providing of course you have a sub that can serve double duty. I have one of the Definitive Technology Trinity subs (no longer made), what a beast .. 2000 watts full power at 10Hz. So this sub can easily handle all of the LFE work and the mains. The 6504's are 4 ohms and when I first put them on my Integra amp, they really suffered to perform. I then purchased an Anthem MCA 225 and it easily drives 4 ohms with lots of reserve power for the 6504's. The best demonstration of this is to play a complex orchestral piece and at high volume listen to how clear and separate all of the instruments are during a crescendo .. it is amazing. Craig
    1 point
  34. In 2007, I got 4 MWMs bins with 2 gauss woofers and 2 K43's. I put the K43's in my LaScalas and discovered the much greater MIDRANGE definition from that woofer. Vocals, saxophone, guitar became exquisitely detailed. If you are using those, I would just keep using them. I came up with the Kappa 15C as a brand new, best bang for the buck alternative, which has a teeny bit better midrange definition than the K43, but not as much power handling. K43's are a great driver for a LaScala, for those who use SUBWOOFERS with them.
    1 point
  35. I'm not publishing them since the drivers I'm using are "unobtanium." I bought the last remaining pair of "Super 12's" from TC Sounds, which have a moror structure similar to their Monster 18" driver that cost a grand about 10 years ago. But if you really insist, they are nothing but a refold of a Gjallarhorn by Josh Ricci, done by redone by another DYI community member. All I did was simulate a "Slim, Wall version" that is only 17" instead of 25" like Joe's "Lowarhorn." Either way, we are talking about an approximate 22 foot tapped horn, and depending on it's position near a wall or corner with other objects in proximity, it can be an effective 24 foot horn, which gets down into the low teens as a subsonic response. Scary stuff for those who have not experienced it. So have a lobster bib and some extra toilet paper handy if you build one! LOL. Here's the link, if you wish to pursue this, but know that Joe's cut sheets are wrong for the Slim Version, which requires fewer sheets of 4x8 plywood. BTW, I got his DTS-10 because it did not fit his new home, but the refolded Gjallarhorn did, and with better performance from another 18" "unobtanium" driver from TC Sounds, now out of business. I'm using twin 12's, with the same Sd as a typical 18. A slimmer box loses efficiency, but not bandwidth!! It will also have as much output as TWO Danley DTS-10's which are the most powerful Subs I've ever owned that get down to "Subterranean BASS." https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1502990-joe-s-lowarhorn-build.html
    1 point
  36. Snowy! The current view out my home office window.
    1 point
  37. I'd call it blowing smoke up someone's azz. But hey that's just me.
    1 point
  38. Unless you plan on playing music really loud, or in a really big space, you'll be fine. I you notice your volume setting is maxed out most of the time, you should look for a stronger amplifier.
    1 point
  39. Before anyone can answer your question, you're going to need to, at the very least, HINT at the direction you are heading. I can read minds, just not yours.
    1 point
  40. I would tell you to bring your swimming cap for a race, but remembered, you don't need one to reduce drag. Is your bedtime the same as Jerry's?
    1 point
  41. I always thought of having a Mid West.
    1 point
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