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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/20/19 in Posts

  1. 4 points
  2. 4 points
  3. 3 points
    Zimmer is composing the new DUNE score as well......Which I was very, very happy to read...!!! But I grew up with John Williams basically writing the score to my childhood...E.T., Close Encounters.... I will often go for a night drive in the mountains(BlueRidgePKWY), go to some choice lookouts(scenic view ahead). I'll park, turn the lights off and just keep the car doors open, walk around, stare at the stars and play CloseEncounters tracks...👽🛸👍..
  4. 3 points
    I look forward to getting these up and running.
  5. 2 points
    I currently have two La Scalas for fronts, a Cornwall for center, two Cornwalls for side surrounds and a Paradigm Reference Servo-15 subwoofer for my 5.1 home theatre setup. I am in the process of getting five La Scalas and two JTR Captivator S2 subwoofers for my 5.2 home theatre setup. Your take?
  6. 2 points
  7. 2 points
    Actually, I'm running a 5.1 system (I should've mentionned that...) : RF7-III * 2 + RC35 (was saving for the RC64...) + RS52*2 Anyway, thanks for the first opinions, that seem to point towards the SR7012, which is also at this point my first option. But I'm not excluding buying second-hand, if it's economically sound : I've just spotted a Emotiva UMC200+ UPA700 for just €500, which limits the risk in case I happen not to like the emotiva sound. Tough choices ahead 😉
  8. 2 points
    I think that would be a KILLER system. I should be getting some JTR speakers in for review in the next month or so. Looking forward to hearing them for the first time
  9. 2 points
    Right, just the crossover itself. I use the same thing Klipsch used -- except it's not zip cord. @JohnA There's nothing wrong with using the original wire, but after 40 years, some of that insulation is getting a bit brittle. I figure if you're going to redo them, why not start from scratch and just build something nice.
  10. 2 points
    As far as what to get. I say sell the klf (not that they are bad just will be harder to match everything). Put that money with the 3k and start looking on CL and garage sale. I wouldn't censor myself to one set up when looking used. Look for good deals is where to stat. When you find something post on her for opinions on what your looking at and value.
  11. 2 points
    Thanks HenrikTJ. I will look into it. My KLFs are in perfect condition.
  12. 2 points
    I'm sorry I apologized. . . . j/k
  13. 2 points
    There are points that I believe need to be said about these typical "room curves": First, just about everything that I've read about room curves fails to mention the reverberation times (RTs) for the listening room under consideration. Remember that these curves show RT as a function of frequency, not a single value as a lot of people seem to want to collapse the conversation down to (which is the same problem as talking about "loudspeaker impedance", which is always a function of frequency and not just one single value, and can vary within the listening bands by more than an order of magnitude). Second and perhaps most importantly, these room curves all assume that you're using the same type of direct radiating loudspeakers having the same issues with directivity vs. frequency around the most sensitive listening band of the human hearing system (1-7 kHz). These type of loudspeakers splash their higher frequency energy around the room unevenly vs. frequency and generally more freely in the upper registers than what is actually desired. The better the Klipsch loudspeaker type used in-room, the better and more consistent the directivity in this critical band (1-7 kHz), which also happens to be the exact region where most "room curves" are making their most visible changes from flat on-axis response. Third, I've recently found that the phase response of the loudspeakers (i.e., phase vs. frequency) has a lot to do with how they sound and how much "room curve" they need in order to not sound harsh. Generally, the flatter the overall phase response of the loudspeaker in-room (including near-field reflections from the room), the smoother the sound and the less the need to "compensate" for the room and loudspeaker deficiencies in reproduction. Fourth, we now know that popular music (...basically every genre besides classical, orchestral, opera, chamber, and perhaps jazz...) typically boosts the higher frequencies and attenuates the lower frequencies, as shown by the deviations from the red line in the bottom figure, below. All you're really doing by introducing a "room curve" to your typical stereo system is to partially offset this mastering tendency: So when you say that you're using a "room curve", you also have to state (in the same breath) what genres of music that you're listening to, the degree of control of early reflections in your listening room, and the directivity and phase response performance of the loudspeakers that you're using. Generally, I recommend fixing the room acoustics issues (usually near field reflectors), loudspeaker directivity and phase response issues, and then de-master the recordings having the most egregious mastering EQ loaded into them. Then flat loudspeaker response on-axis is the best choice, and the stated harshness problems just disappear. Chris
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
    Hi Keyurb! If your KLF-10 still work and sound like they should, and you like the sound, I'd keep them and try to expand on those speakers. For example, I'd get the matching KLF-C7 center speaker. Sadly, the KLF-series did not have their own surround speakers, but from the link below (page 5), you can see different setups including the surrounds from the KSP and the KSF series. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/287702/Klipsch-Legend-Series-Klf-10.html#manual . On the other hand, should you want to get a whole new system, I'd go for either the reference(R) series or the reference premiere(RP).
  16. 2 points
    It depends on: Room size (volume in cubic feet) How far away you sit How loud you like it Where the room lies on the liveness spectrum Whether you want natural and full dynamic range -- with a Klipschorn you probably do. Don't go by the sensitivity rating of the Klipschorn -- that is at 1 meter (39.37 inches) away. With my Klipschorns, in my room (about 4,250 cu. ft.), at my distance (about 13 ft.), at Film Industry Reference Level (very brief peaks at 105 dB, with a medium level for music -- not really an average, but a level that subjectively sounds "medium" -- of 85 dB with 20 dB headroom for peaks), in a treated room (wall to wall carpet, couch, bookshelves, some absorbers, some difussors), with realistic dynamic range, I need about 8 watts per channel, for just a moment at a time, to get those 105 B peaks at my 13 foot distance. But, you want to make sure your amplifier does not clipp, so some people get amplifiers that are 2 times the power needed, just in case, or to allow for bass boost, or drunken party guests, kids, etc. So that would bring us to 16 watts per channel. I have 150 watt per channel amplifiers (NAD), so I feel relatively secure. I once got up to 25 watts per channel (Fanfare for the Common Man -- timpani, bass drum, tam-tam), which would be a little less than 110 dB for the loudest peaks in my room. I generally set movie volume at the level at which the dialog sounds natural. That ends up at about 5 to 7 dB below Film Industry Reference. For movies with good or interesting music (Amadeus, The Music Lovers, Ben-Hur (1959), The Hours, Taxi Driver, Vertigo, Kundun, Fantasia, Mishima etc.) that usually is about the same SPL, but for the sequences featuring things like the Tchaikovsky piano concerto, or Don Giovanni, or Night on Bald Mountain, the setting may sneak up to Reference level, or beyond. Some people claim that an excellent tube amplifier will provide up to 6 times the peak power of a solid state amp of the same power rating. Others say that's bull puckey. I've gotten great sound from solid state and tubes. Among tube amps, old 40 watt McIntoshes were fine, as were 40 watt Dynacos. In solid state, my old 80 watt per channel Luxman was great and very "tube like," and my 150 watt per channel NADs are fine. The Yamaha I have on one surround channel sounds a bit "harder." I borrowed an 80 w.p.c. Marantz for a short while, long ago, and it was as hard as nails (i.e. "harsh"). Their current models are a lot better, as were their legendary tube amps of the 1950s when Saul Marantz was running the place. Solid State sounded pretty bad for its first 10 years, or so (a guess). Part of this was because of undetected TIM distortion. Beware false or misleading specs. You want amps rated at 20 to 20K Hz, all channels operating, at 8 Ohms, at low THD, at full rated power. IM distortion can sound worse than THD, and you might want to take a look at TIM distortion. Parasound tends to list all of these -- another great brand to consider.
  17. 2 points
    I am not an expert. Please don't call me that. I have some experience building things -- that doesn't make me an expert. At any rate, I use 16 gauge tin annealed stranded copper wire, and tinned buss wire for the negative connections on the barrier strip. https://www.jameco.com/z/3815-100-16-AWG-Solid-Tinned-Copper-Bus-Bar-Wire-100-Feet_2098515.html
  18. 2 points
    I have used the Eminence Kappa 15C as well with great results.
  19. 2 points
    focal scala utopia evo Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. 2 points
    if you have a small sub that you might want to add, i have a few of these Lepai 2.1 channel amps. Work great for computers speakers. I have a pair a ksb2.1 hooked up along with a small dayton sub. Sounds great actually. Cant beat the price, I'd send it to ya. (i have several spares for some reason)
  21. 1 point
    The one piece phase plug K-55 is pretty much out of gas at 4.5kHz. The K-400 puts enough squeeze on the signal to get it to 6kHz. With a better tweeter like the de-120, you can lower the crossover point, and get the K-55 operating in the area it was designed to run. It also unloads some energy off of the K-400, which helps it not go into distress at live listening levels. The downside is the sound becomes a bit tweeter heavy - the tweeter often seems to dominate the sonic signature. Some like it and some don't - it's completely subjective. On paper it makes sense. In practical usage - it's hit or miss. This is in the context of a first order filter, not with the steeper slopes that Roy is using. A better solution is to run the the two piece phase plug version of the K-55 (or A-55-G), and the AA. At least, this is what I prefer.
  22. 1 point
    There WAS a turntable and an open reel deck in that closet during the "Klipsch Fans Tour Of Hope" (the first pilgrimage). He powered his center channel Belle Klipsch with a Crown D45 and connected it all with brown lamp cord. I can't remember the preamp or the power amps for the Khorns. None of it seemed exotic.
  23. 1 point
    How about Blinded by the Light? "wrapped up like a ..." what? even when you read the lyrics "deuce" OK Bruce... have another
  24. 1 point
    The best Ht I have ever heard was "IndyKlipschfans" Rodger Chase in Indy, he had an all LaScals HT.
  25. 1 point
    @Emile when I first tried atmos, I tried to position kg1.5 speakers on top of my klf30s pointed up at the ceiling. I wasn't super impressed. Then I read that the atmos module speakers actually have something on their crossovers from Dolby. So I got a pair of rp140sa atmos speakers. Still wasn't impressed. I then moved them to my sides, put the kg1.5 speakers back on my fronts on an angle and was amazed. I ordered a second pair of rp140sa speakers as soon as I could.
  26. 1 point
    I didn’t realize there is a separate forum for ‘talking tube amps’. I guess sometimes we just automatically stuff everything in the 2-Channel section.
  27. 1 point
    I have a room full of extra audio gear I will prob sell before I move , just don’t have enough time right now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  28. 1 point
    My Amazon Purchase experiences are by far mostly Positive.... Big or Small, I've had a few random issues over the past decade, most recently bad experience was a gate to prevent weener dogs from running up and down the stairs (had one that ruptured a couple back disc earlier this year). Anyway, the gate was defective. I provided a photo, and they sent me another and told me to keep or discard the damaged one. I fixed it instead, and now we have a gate to keep them weeners out of the lower level guest room and pantry. Not once has Amazon burned me,...... knock on wood desk.
  29. 1 point
    The goats tremble when they see him coming, and the chickens run to the city.
  30. 1 point
    Actually, I don't think I should. I just figured the topic would move towards "if you stream xyz all your problems are magically solved". Was trying to avoid that discussion and see what people thought of DL cards provided with physical media. I like it. I too like knowing the physical media in hand. However, thinking back to single CD player, then 5-disc changer with random, then Nachimichi programmable via remote (disc number, track number, repeat) having it all on a server with well though out application is pretty nice. Thanks for the link. If I ever carve out some time I'd love to tackle it.
  31. 1 point
    You could always get the Scott 299C repaired and try it. Is it a good, honest 40 watt "RMS" (not quite the appropriate term, but widely used)? If so, it should be fine, if it sounds fine. Klipsch says that Khorns tend to sound best with a ceiling that is at least 8.5 feet high. Heyser agrees, but just says "a thick rug and a high ceiling." The reason given, IIRC, is that you don't want the tweeter sound that bounces off either floor or ceiling to reach your ears before the midrange and bass sound get there. The easiest solution is to put a few scatter rugs on the floor where the tweeter sound would bounce off the floor and into your ears (i.e., a first reflection point), and put an attractive or unobtrusive absorber on the ceiling where the tweeter sound would bounce off of it. The Klipschorn, back in the day, was rated at 104 dB (not 105) at 1 watt at 1 meter (54 dB EIA). Consumer Reports magazine rated speakers with that EIA as needing 0.9 watt "to make a loud sound in a 2,500 cu. ft. room." Using the same standard, they rated Acoustic Research and KLH acoustic suspension speakers as needing 22 times the power (20 watts) to produce the same SPL. So the word got around that the Khorn, the JBL D130, etc needed "less than 1 watt." That would true if the listener was content with about 98 dB. Your room is almost as large as mine, and you sit a bit farther away. But 40 good honest watts would be fine, IMO. I'd say liking to crank it at times, but leaving the paint on the walls, might be about 105 dB, which would take about 15 watts in your room, with plenty of headroom, at your distance. You might have a diamond in the rough. I hope you do.
  32. 1 point
    What's wrong with the original wire the speaker came with? It is short, so the impact of difference is very small.
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    i have a 2 watt 45amp and a 300b 8 watt amp. i never use the 300b because e 2 watts seems to be enough. the only reason I question it is because I read forums and they tell me I need more power.
  35. 1 point
    California, Indiana, Ohio, Poland, Tasmania, Australia. Geographical spread does not necessarily imply volume, but it's not a lie. So many are reluctant to build horns as big as they need to be, except for DaveA, who also builds great Tweeter Lenses. Besides, I have moved so far beyond all this crap anyhow, I'm starting not to give a damn anymore, almost like "Pearls before Swines."
  36. 1 point
    Please forgive the mis-characterization. It was an error due to my immense respect for your work. I redacted my post to read "very knowledgeable." -Dave
  37. 1 point
    Please tell me this isn't true??
  38. 1 point
    Hello and welcome, congrats on the new Chorus speakers, I'm sure once the bugs are worked out you'll be very happy with your purchase. An easy test at this point would be to swap mid horns between the two cabinets, that will let you know whether its the horn driver or the crossover. If its the crossover really not a huge deal, they're 30 years old and could probably use a re-cap anyway just pull both terminal cups out leave the crossovers bolted right to them and mail them to Bob Crites for a rebuild, Last I checked it was about $150 and they'll be better than new and good to go for another 30 years.
  39. 1 point
    The word 'Safe' is kind of confusing... are you asking what is the minimal wattage you should consider getting in order to be satisfied? No one here can answer that for you... but as low as 2 or 3 watts can be plenty for some. I don't think ANYONE ever said Klispchorns were made to be paired with tube amps... they just happen to excell with tube amps because of their effiency and ability to accurately portray some amplifiers unique characteristics. Heritage sounds great with solid state amplification.
  40. 1 point
    I have a small listening room about 12' x 10' in size. I use a pair of flea amps (about 3.5 watts/channel) with the Klipschorns and they are loud. I generally listen to vocal jazz, rock and classical.
  41. 1 point
    Zero is a safe minimum but it produces very very little sound My take on it is it depends on how loud your average listening level is and how far above that average are the peaks of your source material. And average to peak level is another whole big can of worms. Live music can have huge dynamic range, recorded music not so much. Sorry I could not be more help, I'm sure others will tell you exactly what you need.
  42. 1 point
    In space, no one can hear you tarnish
  43. 1 point
    The horn in the Epic series CF3 and CF4 is an excellent modern horn designed for a wide band one inch exit driver. Thanks to Roy.
  44. 1 point
    Roger that. I use Farmworks brand, about 1/10 the price.
  45. 1 point
    Here is the el cheapo amp at parts express. Never owned one but seems to have good ratings. 10 wpc 4 ohm load @ .1% THD . $30 https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-1-class-d-ac-dc-battery-powered-mini-amplifier-15-wpc--300-380
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    That is the official Klipsch Museum of Audio History eBay store. @dtel's wifeChristy runs it and has been ramping it up. Travis
  48. 1 point
    Congrats and welcome! Wives are interesting creatures. Mine likes my big black LaScalas. She not a music fan.. she likes the looks.
  49. 1 point
    The horn doesn't care what materials you use, it will perform the same. Big Horns with Small Amplifiers pave the road to Sonic Heaven.
  50. 1 point
    So what OS is running the unit?
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