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Spent the morning cleaning up the "bubble". Previous owner told me about 303 Aerospace cleaner and 303 Aerospace Protectorant for the rag top. He also gave me 2 bottles of the cleaner and I ordered the Protectorant from Amazon. Looked at a couple of youtube videos and did my top. It protects the rag top from sun, bird droppings, and staining. Took me ten minutes and it looks great. Did the process in LF's garage to keep it out of the dust while wet. So now you have the rest of the story.....

Just came in this morning... Dennis said he can complete one of these in under six hours if needed, I find that amazing. Un-boxing: The amp is in it's infancy, and FOR SURE there are better output tubes to choose from... but the initial (less than 1 hour) listening session is that the amp holds a much more holographic image that my Bel Cantos did. The sound is different (do not infer better) than the solid state monoblocks. Dennis is pure joy to work with... and he even rewired the input section with no complaints (after he had already finished it) based on a request I had. He even included a spare set of output tubes.

Got to visit with Carl Saturday and pick up the sub/amp I purchased from him. Here is a picture of the cash, one of Carl's famous martinis and a yeti style cup I made for him. We had a good time listening to a couple of systems there both poolside and indoors. Carl has some great setups if you get the chance to visit him in Beaumont. Also got to play with Carl's great dog Otto. Here he is daring me to take that dog toy away. Fun times.

" It protects the rag top from sun, bird droppings" I could use some of this stuff for our outdoor summer concerts, spray bottle, to spray my head............

Sunday eh? Coffee done with, BloodyMary(s) are a flowin. Rv engineering continues Now im shopping for what i should already own, a decent TIG/Argon set up. Got to do it, i like working with Aluminum and Aluminum likes me...... Hit HD Sat morning and unlike Friday, there were 10 people in the store. Monday Morning brings my first Farm run in weeks. Farmer(s) said bring Ammo/Alc/and Mondays paper.......

Who's in? OK... I'm in, but I have around a 3/4 week head start. Are we documenting this? 4 more days. Are you still in?

Heisman Watch I might feel a little more sympathy for QB Lamar Jackson of Louisville if he didn't spend his time strutting around doing Heisman poses, then committing 3 second half turnovers after his now 3-loss team lost to Kentucky. Time to look to the best player on the best team, or at least one of the top 4 teams.

Not today but picked these items a couple days ago, will be testing out them today: I have always been intrigued by ML Electrostatic speakers. Can't wait to get a little seat time with them. I have heard they are pretty power hungry so when a XPA-3 II was posted on CL, I jumped.

Did you have coffee and toast first?

Just go to the hardware store get some decent outlets and some wire and build your own , if it sounds Best straight out of the wall Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Get the right gauge wire to start with and it is not necessary and there is no solid proof it does anything after all these years. If it really worked, there would be tons of papers supporting it. Be careful of sporadic personal reports. Bi-wiring has been around for a long time and it not something difficult to study and the audio gurus have just overlooked it. The only time it makes sense to use to set of wires is in active bi-amping. As you can tell, I not a believer of passive bi-amping.

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About 40 years ago I put together a system for my then, and now, dear friends. I hadn't heard them in well over a decade until this week while visiting with them and other dear friends of very long time for Thanksgiving in Austwell, Texas on San Antonio Bay. They'd acquired a second home there, having already had one there for a long time. The Dynacos had been off line for years. Terry's husband couldn't be there, so I decided to move them to the new place and hook them up for him. I'd expected to set it up as a DyanQuad system as Doug has one. But we couldn't locate it and he wasn't sure where it was. At first, as they were already there, I hooked up a pair of Klipsch Tangent's (seen sitting on a stove in the lamplight picture) out of phase. But they were too efficient and with no DynaQuad box no way to adjust. So, went and got the Dynaco A-25s and replaced them. PERFECT! Needed no adjustment as they are basically half A5s. The sound was extraordinary. With a good, clean sub this system would be as good as my ears ever want. Made me feel really good to have chosen these 40 years ago for friends and be able to put them back into service and have my friends thrilled yet again. Did some Adele, my "Peasant Celebration" recording, DSOTM, and, of course, some Firesign for a quad check. Firesign distribution was as discrete to all channels as the best THX and far more natural...since it IS entirely natural and not a process. Ambience from the other analog and digital sources was just awesome. Told them they really didn't even need to install the DynaQuad in that system as long as they continue to use the all Dynaco speakers. Doesn't need a thing. Great Friday night party and listening session to end a wonderful week! Dave

Just hooked my Pioneer SX-1980 up to my Cornwalls and pleasantly surprised how well the combination sounds.

I have now heard every Heritage and Extended Heritage model except the Cornwall. I did own Cornscalas for a bit though, so I can take a decent guess at the Cornwall sound. Out of all of them...the Chorus II are my favorite. No speaker is perfect and they all have compromises. The Chorus happens to strike the perfect balance for me. Now I could explain why I like them over all the rest, but I wanted to see if I was immediately banned and shunned for not choosing the mighty Khorn first.

Figured that was the case, cool to see. Dave, how far back have you been keeping track? Did you end up hearing back? I see the ad has been removed. Probably a good thing seeing as I just got back in town (Minneapolis) I have a pair of cf2's v1. That's how I would put it, loud but not chest pounding, and I would assume the cf1's would be more of the same. They would pair with a good subwoofer though.

Don't be overly sensitive Dave, you made a good point! I believe Diz was only commenting that your analogy about a 600 pound elephant refers to a very small elephant, not that your point was irrelevant (or ir-elephant)! I agree with Mark, put it back. I want to know the answer. I have the midrange in question and don't know if I should admit it publicly or not!

That makes sense. It seems like Samsung has had some major reliability problems with their products, lately. Onkyo had a reliability problem with their AVR's a few years ago with a daughter-board component that Onk knew was not up to the proper spec. Onk responded by extending their warranty for that problem to 2018 and gained a whole lot of good will in the process. I'm not so sure I would want to buy a Samsung product right now. It seems like a crap shoot.

Seems the root cause in all things sports and losing are the refs/umpires. Not the 3-4 hours of questionable play and play calling by those in the trenches. Hard to find a team and coach that played and coached a perfectly flawless game and lost to a refs call. Very similar in theory to the Green Party and Jill Stein challenging the presidential outcome, Jill was such a force in the election! Things didn't go their way so lets cry foul, bad refs. Bet all her children have trophys for never playing and finishing last.

I bought an ECM mic and a phantom power source mixer when I first started using REW a few years ago, but the mixer contributed too many potential variables, so I replaced it all with a simple USB microphone. I attached a one meter long string to the mic tripod mount to save from needing a tape measure at every different speaker test.

Except to jimbo it seems.

Sweet?

sorry if my descripion of that Picture of Kennedy implied I shot any of her pictorials - I NEVER worked for Playboy but I have worked with a lot of playmates and all sorts of models - see my website for more examples

I run that same Furman up stairs on my Anthem/Sunfire system. I was using a Panamax power center....didn't notice any difference. G.E.M.

Vintagecrank, Welcome to the forum. Please don't just be a "drive by" poster where we never hear from you again. It looks like some of our members addressed your issue with good replies. The RP-280F's do come with terminals that accept banana plugs, you just need to pop those little center plastic thingys out. Unless you are speaking about the quality of the terminals and you may have something there. Actually, I wish Klipsch would(wood) have spent another $25.00 and have this line veneered with real wood. At the minimum the 280F's and the RP-450C. If you could be more specific with your issue about the RP-280F's it would help us at the least understand where you are coming from. Bill

Bingo! C'mon Deano, get on board with this deal already!

The majority of new users won't leave comments about this driver for reasons which should be obvious by now.

It seems pretty straight forward to me. Michigan lost in 2OT to the #2 team in the nation, so they will drop one place to 4th. Ohio State is in by virtue of beating the #3 team, then you add the Big Ten championship winner winner next week, either Penn State or Wisconsin. Then add the #1 team and you've got your top four. Isn't that what the nation wants to see, Big 10 football?

You're better off.....

From 1976-1983, they used BLO mixed with black walnut stain...for oiled walnut finishes. It was hand-rubbed into the cabinets. I'm not sure what they used after that. You can also use black walnut superfine sawdust with BLO for the initial coat (rub into the grain WITH THE GRAIN, which will help to seal the pores of the wood veneer, then use BLO without it for the next coats. CAVEAT: Be sure to read the labels for flammability, spontaneous combustion, etc...and be sure to do this in a well-ventilated area! You can get the same effect by hand-brushing a semi-gloss urethane onto the furniture...but be sure to constantly stir the urethane to keep the silica in it completely into solution as you do this...the silica is what turns glo0ss urethane into semi-gloss urethane and it NEEDS to be stirred OFTEN when using it....OTHERWISE the finish will appear more glossy in some areas than in others when it dries...and you are trying to have a consistency to the semi-gloss appearance. Let each THIN coat set up COMPLETELY, then LIGHTLY sand between coats, take soft brush and remove sanding residue, apply next coat...usually about three coats seals the wood quite well with the grain still being seen AND felt, but not having the appearance of a completely smooth surface, but the surface should FEEL smooth. On furniture, I always apply the urethane finish prior to assembly, ensuring any glue surfaces remain finish-free. Then upon completion of assembly, I can wipe up excess glue squeeze-out and leave no indication of "glue lines" anywhere because the urethane allows for a TOTAL glue clean-up....I use tite-bond types of wood glues.

This is the correct question imo. In my past experience, there is no reason to buy a TV on black Friday if you want a higher end one. I have never seen a deal for a high-end TV that isn't available most every day of the week. It is the lower end stuff, especially ones that are not real models but ones made specifically for black friday that are the deals. So if having a 50" LED for $250 or $300 sounds amazing...that's black Friday. For a quality TV the price is roughly the same all year round. There are claims the best deals are around teh Super Bowl -- that is not due to the SB, it is due to the changeover in model years. Just my 2c. Don't be in a rush to buy in now if the best deal is your goal. The same deals are available on TVs all the time.

That was about 2008..... ketchup man!!!!!

I agree, the 4 plastic plugs were only a few cents.

Since I'm here, leaving New Orleans

For Tarheel.

If only we could drink the stuff.

I don't know what the prices are in the rest of the country, but this surprised me, especially for the holiday. BTW, I spent the the the day alone on Thursday. The wife worked a 12 hr. doubletime shift and I stayed home a painted. I am making progress, but it's slooooow going. Sort of a good thing my oldest son cancelled spending the night on the weekend (all the kids got sick so they stayed home. Everyone is better but they could still be contagious and didn't want to be around some of the other kids in the family). Anyhoooo...

I know exactly what you mean. We went to one of my brothers' home yesterday for a huge feast, about 60 people, it was excellent. My wife also prepared a whole dinner yesterday for us today. I believe I liked today's dinner better.

After a long wait I finally received my AR-XA modified with all new wiring, caps, upgraded motor, suspension, plinth, and a few other goodies. But when it came it had a wiring issue. Rather than return it, I decided to redo the arm. The seller agreed to pay for the wiring issues, so it saved both of us time and effort. So instead of damaging the table with the new arm, I decided to have the wiring issue fixed and took the table and re-plinthed it and did the other with the new arm. Both tables have powder coated top plates, Cardas wiring throughout, and upgraded arm tubes and head shells. I even took an original head shell and had it modified to fit the SME tube and attachment. The table on the left is what I'm keeping and has a Sumiko MMT arm, and the one on the right is up for sale in the garage sale section.It has the stock arm that was modded with sapphire bearings,polished screws for the arm,wiring, and dampened with cotton in the tube. The arm bearing and platter bearings were polished and cleaned as well. Both sound amazing and are super quiet. I have an Ariston RD-11 Superior being redone and if I wasn't getting that table, would keep the one on the right. Hopefully after the Ariston is finished, I will also be finished with my turntable fetish.

You would really be toast if was called dead wife ale and she found it.

Dang, if Nancy see a 6 pack of that in the fridge I am toast. Honey it is only a marketing label...lol Let us know how you find it Mark...

Same here, just one daughter and son in law plus a rugrat left for a couple days, everything went great, now what to do with the leftover food ? I told them I'm not cooking the rest of the week, open fridge and pull out what you want, I'm done for now.

I think it would be WAY more valuable to give the remaining speaker wire to your friend. Make sure the jumpers between terminals are in place.

Does not apply to used motor vehicles as the COO is consumed when the vehicle is registered. Made in the US, Mexico and Canada goods are duty free. See my other post here on shipping goods other than new vehicles across a NA border.

When I owned my Belle's, I felt they had a more open and detailed sound compared to my Forte's, but I had the Forte's in the bedroom and the Belle's in the front room so a comparison in the same room was never done. The Belle's look much better than the Forte's, in my opinion. Tom

Well, now ...oh, never mind

I like to roll my amps and receivers! Scott yesterday, Pioneer today, Yamaha tomorrow, VRD's the next. It's easier than replacing components.

Thanks Bruce - that's an interesting article on the tractrix curve that I don't believe that I've seen before. So the construction of a true tractrix curve isn't very difficult to do. Once you do one that matches half the horizontal mouth size of the K-402, then look at the K-402 midline-to-horizontal curve from measurements, it's quite easy to see that the horn can be called a "modified tractrix curve", since it really is a truncated tractrix construction, that makes about half of the length of the horn conical. (The conical section walls are about as flat as flat gets.) So you CAN call the K-402 a conical-tractrix horn, but there are other "mid-bass" DIY horn designs that use that same term to mean two walls are straight and two wall are tractrix. Those are the type of mid-bass horns that I personally would avoid, and is the reason way I described the flat walls as problematic. If you look at the TH subs that Danley has designed, you'll probably note that their horn expansion type is exponential, with a very, very low flare rate corresponding to the 1/4 wavelength cutoff frequency of the horn's length. I've often wondered if the THD measurements that you see out of TH subs is partially due to the nearly parallel walls in its expansion, leading to HOM generation in the specific horn segments between the horn folds. That's an example of nearly parallel horn walls that I was referring to. [OT: I've often wondered what would happen to the harmonic distortion performance of a TH sub if it were constructed using continuous spiral expanding tubing anchored between two plywood sheets and using foam to constrain the tube-plywood matrix together, but anchored at the driver port from the throat-to-near mouth penetration points, thus eliminating the multiple hard folds in the horn path length. Will the harmonics be lower order, and will the HOM generation be much lower due to the elimination of the horn fold discontinuities?] Chris