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I would swap the Crites caps for JEM caps, it makes the K77 smoother and the bass richer, and if you have a Crites xover the autoformer is also wrong. An original T2A makes the squaker much silkier. I have done all this myself and speak from experience. Nothing to say against EQ but I would start with the causes.

Bump...

Yes welcome! They should sound decent. Check the speakers out for sure. Cool... The forum can help with other Questions.

THIS. It's a no-brainer. Equalize to your heart's content.

I agree

If you add an EQ you will have options to adjust everything.

Thanks man. I definitely always check caps and rubber for tears and creases.  Wanted to know more of their sound presentation. pros.. Cons...  I'm debating between used bargains of older models , or just going for RP-500M and calling it a day. Maybe a subwoofer later if need be. I'd get newer technology and build, but the RF 3 II could just sound great as well regardless. 🤔

Oh my god, reading it again, I see that I had already mixed up the letters in the post and the corresponding woofers. It was a bad day for my mental fitness. No wonder you should despair of me. I don't have a “P” but a “V”. And I'm not going to sell this “V” to anyone, especially not “blind” and built into a case. It was not malicious intent. I have never deceived anyone in my life with sales. Sorry for the confusion.   And that would be a very different case in coparison to  the sellers of the Khorn who are the descendants of the owner and who offered it quite honestly in good faith and who could not have known it after 51 years. Especially since there is also the possibility that these “V” were perhaps already in the KH when the owner bought it, perhaps used young, whatever way the “V” got in there.

Thanks Marvel, I have moved the project with the transformers (and cabling) to the back for now. I came across this horn and would like to keep it as original as possible with just a few measures. I'm taking my time to get used to the horn and the horn to me. Replacing the bass drivers was not planned but necessary to have a starting point because one of them was rattling. I'm also not sure if it's a decentered voice coil. Because it also rattles when I tap the cone lightly with my finger when the woofer is put on the table the magnet facing down. A decentered voice coil would not rattle when tapped I think. It looks more like something has come loose. But no matter, since these K33 “V” are perhaps the only area that could not be original? On Saturday we are on vacation with my 89-year-old mother for the next two weeks. After that, I'll start carefully. New rubber seals, and days later I'll start by connecting my type AA from the LaScala with the polyester caps just to have a benchmark because the coils are almost identical since I happily found the original T2A in the cellar somewhere.. The original caps in the KH look dry, but I have to measure them after 51 years. One squaker seems to be a bit quieter, of course this could have other causes but I'll start with the Xover. I even have a set of brand new original never used JEM caps for the AA that I might use. The original caps will definitely stay on the xover for visual reasons of originality. There's not much more to do for now. Once these measures have been carried out, I will take my time and weeks later install the K55V of my 1977 LS for comparison, as they have had new original Atlas diaphragms since 3 years. Then I can see whether the 1973 K55V from the Khorn could also benefit from new ones. If there is no difference in sound then the old diaphragms will stay. Apart from cleaning all the contacts, I've then actually done enough. I am also happy that I have the original wiring of the Khorn. With the LS, I thought 18 years ago that everything had to be “new” and “better”. In hindsight, that was complete nonsense from my point of view today. I had done the interior wiring with Kimber 4TC, I had bought an ALK Universal crossover. In my subjective case, the ALK crossover meant that I heard less and less music. Back came the type AA. I no longer have to make all these detours and mistakes. I also don't have another 20 “spare years” for what I consider to be stupid gimmicks🙂    

If they're in good shape, $200 is a pretty good buy.  Their closest modern relative if the RP-8000F.  Age doesn't mean a lot with most Klipsch speakers if they're well cared for, the biggest issues you may run into are caps and rubber.